I would suggest giving the crown-fanta kit mod another go around, but this perhaps try switches of lower resistance to compensate for the stiffer grommet. You might find a combination that’s more to your liking. You may be surprised how big a difference this makes.
Thanks for the suggestion! I believe the mod kit comes with sensitive switches off top, but I’m sure that there are better/more sensitive ones around. I’ll definitely try it out, thanks again.
Right right, it does come with those Gersung A2s, but to your point there are more sensitive–lower gram force–switches available. You may have better luck with 125gf switches; I believe Omron makes a number of switches under 200gf.
Does anyone know what the difference is with the crown309 compared to the crown303 on etokki . i know the 307 is suppose to have bigger actuator and harder rubber compared to the crown303 on etokki .
The 303 and 309 have a similar, if not exactly, bottom end including the actuator. The only difference I noticed is that the 309 bears a shorter top collar the 307 has so reaching the edges is sooner than later found on the 303.
I wanna revive my old HRAP V3 Kai that I haven’t used since I got my TE2. I wanna make it full Korean with a Myoungshin Fanta and Crown Buttons; anyone know if it’s possible to mount those in the V3 Kai’s body?
As of right now…no. Unless you are able to get a hold of a custom panel. Othetwise you habe to use the Jap mounted crown which arent bad at all. I do believe there may be a few things in the future that may allow a fanta later on though.
Hmm. By Japanese mounted Crown, you mean the 303-FK as opposed to the 303-N, right? If so, I could just use the Fanta Crown Upgrade Kit from FocusAttack to make it feel more like a Fanta, yes?
I took a look at the Crown buttons on etokki. According to them, the snap-in types are compatible with standard .110 quick disconnects, but I took a look at some google images and their connector prongs look nothing like those you’d find on a Sanwa or Seimitsu. How would I connect the QD’s to them?
EDIT: I decided I’ll just go with the screw-in variants. Even though they require soldering, they cost less since I don’t need the rubber fastening nuts that the snap ins do. However, I still have a question: there seem to be small PCBs on the undersides of the buttons with two solder points. Does it matter which point I solder ground to and which point I solder signal to?
For the first, the prong does fit inside the QD, just I don’t personally think it’s the most snug or reliable fit. If you fasten it with a piece of tape along with it, it’ll be okay for a bit, but again, not reliable.
As for the PCB on the underside, it shouldn’t matter. It’s the same with how it doesn’t matter which QD you use on which prong on a Sanwa or Seimitsu button. Electrically, all that’s happening is that a circuit is closing, so it doesn’t matter which end of said circuit is ground and which is power.