Korean arcade parts discussion

omron V-152-6A5 is rated at 125gf (taking in consideration the hinge lever), that’s the part used stock in sanwa JLW, it is equivalent to the Gersung “A2” in korean levers (rated at 120gf). All other actuating specs are virtually the same according to the datasheets, the omron being the high quality long lasting tight tolerances part (and more expensive as well, last I checked 2.95usd a pop from arcade parts retailers) .

That ref code is “custom” since it has a wrong digit (it is a SPST NO and should have a 3 instead of a 6 ), which is common (remember the panasonic “thai” AM5 used in korean levers, with he “custom” marking? ) in the arcade parts world since it is probably coming from a batch produced for Sanwa.

the switch tested by Wazwuz, the V-152-1c25 is just a SPDT & quick connect terminal version of the Omron part mentioned above .

If you prefer something harder to actuate in the 180gf-200gf range such as the Gersung “A3”, alas today the arcade parts retailers do not propose anything else in hinge lever length except the Gersung GSM-V****A3 in question and sometimes some crappy chinese clone switches.
The upper OF range omron V are not used by sanwa nor seimitsu, as for Taeyoung,Myeoungshin/IST etc they use only old panasonic stock or local gersung parts today. Panasonics are discontinued.
The step above the omron switch used by Wazwuz (and the stock JLW part) would be for example a V-152-1C26 rated at 250gf (with the hinge lever).

The weblink for the “A3” sold by FA (in one of the replies above) says the switches are “long straight hinge lever”. Fortunately the switches sold by bundles of 4 are the right model but the tag is dead wrong, the blades are not the “long hinge lever” type but only “hinge lever” , the long one being 2.38cm longer which is not compatible with K-sticks.
short hinge lever < hinge lever (short+1.35cm) < long hinge lever ( hinge lever+ 2.38cm)

@Marios I intentionally semi stripped one of my golden fanta shafts with a flat head screwdriver then slowly twisted it into the fujin actuator. Slowly but surely and managed to fit the golden fanta shaft.

With regards to the new Omron switches used in the LS-32, couldn’t they be used in K-sticks with a much smaller actuator? I’m curious as to how small you would have to go to have them function well.

are there any differences with the 45st grommet for the 300 series and the Infil lever or are they more or less the same?

@wazwuz I messed up. I didn’t measure correctly so that original tweet was wrong. Hopefully you saw it but in here it is in case:


The Taeyoung with GF 8mm shaft should technically have the same travelling distance as a Myoungshin with a 7mm shaft or the Green lever.

They should be similar. Maybe better consistency in all parts but that’s a guess.

My Capcom Power Stick Fighters haven’t arrived. Are those stock in the older JLWs?

@wazwuz I just tried the Golden Fanta 7mm shaft and 14.75mm actuator on a Myoungshin with different switches.

The Panasonic switches and the Gersung V0323A3 switches are about the same. Diagonals are medium-small so it’s still workable to do proper Korean backdashes and Mishima wavedahses.

The Gersung V1623A3 switches have diagonals that feel closer to normal size. Everything felt really good with no obvious downsides. This switch set might be perfect for the 7mm shaft and 14.75mm or 14.5mm actuator combo. Sure it’s not true to what the Green lever has but I will take these Gersungs instead.

Any Gersung A2 switches I had were not good at all with this combo.

I didn’t opt to use the OMRON set you provided thinking it might be too light or not trigger as well with the actuator.

If you can find an OMRON switch that is closer to the V1623A3 or just have those Gersung switches included with the Green set, that would be perfect.

When it comes to Taeyoung levers, I will try to work on em later. I will say the 8mm shaft is enough due to the collar hole being bigger. Switch placement is closer to the middle so results from various switches might not be bad.

If you were to do a run of the Green parts set, I would still have a 14.75mm actuator with the 7mm shaft and 14.55mm actuator.

@sadboy
Sanwa used the Omron V switches (the first model mentioned in my post) ,they were just rebranded and mounted stock in JLW.

Hi all, i am new here. I would like to ask all the knowledgeable people here about microswitch.
I have started Tekken recently and is totally hooked with Korean stick, i currently have an etokki omni with taeyoung, i have read around in the previous posts that changing gersung A2 to A3 will improve the diagonal command.

As far as i know the taeyoung comes with A2, should i change it to A3 too to improve the diagonal? And can i know what is the actual difference between A2 and A3.

Thanks in advance!

A2’s aren’t bad but seems like a lot of people don’t like them in this forum. I think A2’s have more potential, since they are more sensitive but at the same time you need to be more precise, unlike A3’s which need more grams to actuate and are less likely to give you a miss input. So it comes down to how you use your lever. I use twitch method for inputs, so for me A2’s are the best option.

The issues with the A2’s seemed to be with diagonals specifically on the 309MJ set up. I don’t recall people having problems on the stock Taeyoung set up.

Since the switches are placed closer to the middle and the collar hole is wider, you don’t necessarily need to swap them. The problem usually stems from Crown levers with tighter collar holes.

Hi guys, thank you so much for the reply! I have read around this same thread for more information about k-sticks. I found some post advising player to change the switch for low (to crouch) to A2 and keep the rest at A3, is that a recommended mod for 309MJ too?

I assume we change the bottom to A2 for easier crouching and faster low input, but will the d/f still have problem as 1 of the switch is still A2. Am thinking of throwing a 309MJ to my Hori to try out a Crown lever too.

@Nostromo21 in my experience that set up works best with taeyoung, myoungshin and fujin. A2 will be used for down and am5s for the other 3 switches but a3s will work as well. Personally i prefer to keep all switches the same on the 309 and kaze. First try the 309 stock before changing anything on it. For the taeyoung I believe the biggest flaw is in the actuator and not the switches. My advice is to buy a golden fanta kit from wazwuz and swap it out. Oh and welcome to srk!

It took almost 3 months and 213.45 USD thanks to hilariously shitty postal services but I finally have them!

Thanks to wazwuz for being very helpful throughout!

Hey guys, just a heads up, I see Makestick has Fujins back in stock, if anyone is interested in them.
No idea if they’re the removable bat ones or different switches, or how many they got.
Hopefully whoever has missed out can get one.

You spelt fujin wrong…it’s actually spelt Like this “Puuujin”.

Glad to see you got it finally!

Lol my bad, you know me bro, English is not my first language. I’ll fix my phone to auto correct lol.

Hi Zero! Thank you so much for sharing your preference.
I will definitely try to experiment more with the switches once i got chance, as now i only have omni stick that can fits in a K-stick so i can’t really experiment as much as i want to.

I am thinking about modding my current Taeyoung too, this is my first K-stick and i like it alot. The only thing that i think i would like to improve on the Taeyoung is that, i think the throw is too far? (I have move the lever a lot before it hits the microswitch, do let me know if i used the wrong term), will changing the actuator to a bigger one solve that problem? And is there any place that i can buy actuator for Taeyoung other than buying Golden Fanta Kit?

Thanks again and glad to be here!