@LunaPost
The SDL-301 has a massive throw range and very little neutral zone, the 309mj with newer model a3s has a medium neutral zone and relatively short throw. It’s hard to recommend the SDL considering the gate serves such little purpose and if you do try to ride the gate the shaft hits against the top panel.
I’m surprised so many people want to add a gate to their Korean lever. For me one of my favorite aspects of switching to a K-stick was getting away from the gate.
Well not having any diagonal guidance is probably the hardest thing to adapt to when coming from Japanese stick, and there is some advantage to square or octagonal restriction. The SDL-301 was a poor attempt at it though, I just put the circular gate on it since I found the circle-square gate so pointless.
@“masked rider” if thats the case is there another Korean style lever you have in mind that is more what im looking for in terms of having less tension when getting further away from neutral? or the the crown 309 really the best im guna get? is there a silicon with less tension than 25?
i think if you want lighter, you might as well stick with a jlf. there really isnt a point in using a k lever if you want less tension. also, how long have you had your mj? it might take a week or two to break the grommet in.
@AlexxTheGreaat basically what @eyeamg0dly said. The 309MJ is pretty light as is. Fantas with the soft grommet might be a little bit lighter but not by much. I think for most people the whole point of switching to Korean levers is to have that stiffness in the first place. If you’re coming from playing on JLFs and you haven’t had your 309MJ for long, I recommend giving it more time. For me, I found it to be pretty stiff at first coming from years of playing on JLFs but probably after a few days of pretty heavy use (wavedash and EWGF practice), I decided the stock 25A grommet was way too light.
There is a reason why no k sticks have less than 25 tension you cant benefit from the grommit, switches, battop if its too light. i would try a fanta stick and spend some good time with it to actually get a true experience of k stick vs balltop as mentioned it is a learning curve to adjust to takes time if you was comming from balltop
https://i.imgur.com/0SGStzZ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/iJ1GIor.jpg
Cheers to everyone for their advice on this mini project i did. It went perfect thanks to some tips given.
As for actual testing, did a quick 30-1hour test on a few setups
Normal sized Waz shaft
my favourite so far is 15.5 actuator, green gromett (the original soft one i had trouble with some dash combos e.g kaz electric, delay hopkick, screw, run b41, dash df 14)
Original gromett is around same tension, maby a tad abit harder, but the diagnonals wernt as great (there are bigger holes on the corners of Waz’s, but could be placebo or my inexperience?)
Tried the 15 mm actuator, but preferred the 15.5 straightaway, also ran with all AM5, then decided to to use a A2 for down input. Feels like its more conistant, but yet again could be placebo or inexperience with the lever.
Its safe to say that i hate having to keep unscrewing and rescrewing things to change my setups :(. Movement i found more crisp on the 309Mj with A3, but yet again ive put many hours into that lever. I didnt like the 35 gromett too much but willing to give it another shot on this setup…when im not too lazy. But the green seems my favourite and i’ve hardly broken it in.
There is abit of a rattle which is abit irritating when letting go to neutral, is this normal? I’m so use to riding the colar on the MJ but slowly realizing i dont have to now which i like XD
Nice work, the rattling could just be the slightly looser levers on the panasonic switches hitting against the bronze actuator. You could try removing the switches and if the rattling disappears it’s probably nothing to worry about.
Nice job. That rattle is normal.
Out of curiosity, what’s the reasoning behind using a metal actuator versus a plastic? Does it actually change the feel in any noticeable way?
Probably just for durability, may have a slight impact on friction against the microswitch levers but nothing I ever personally noticed. All depends on the type of metal or plastic though, I’ve seen pictures of banged up soft metal actuators.
is standard sanwa jlf shaft compatible with the kaze lever? i heard the red battop couldnt be removed on the stock shaft.
So while SuperHwoarang has been making his lever design for Japanese sticks, I found another one which probably is the basis.
[img]https://i.imgur.com/V5jX1wf.jpg/img]
I dont have the new one but if the Kaze lever is a semi offshoot of a Myoungshin lever, you can insert a JLF shaft after some minor adjustments to the bushing and actuator.
Interesting it looks like a kaze body. I still have no clue what body the kaze lever uses or if it’s original.
Hello! New to this forum but have been a lurker for quite some time. I would like to ask if anyone who has the golden crown set with better actuators (or anyone really) would be willing to sell me the stock actuator for the Crown 309MJ stick. Don’t want to get into details long story short I do not have the actuator anymore.
I’d also be willing to buy pretty much any decent actuator compatible with the stick, doesn’t necessarily have to be stock. I don’t think that I really want to shell out money for the golden crown set as I reside in the U.S and shipping is kind of expensive.
I don’t believe you can use the Golden Crown actuator on the Crown shaft. You’re probably better off trying to get the original or doing a JLF shaft conversion.
Does anyone know any maker that makes a dust washer for crown levers or an appropriate replacement? Somehow mine broke during transport :(… On another note there’s a test version of the CrazyDongpal lever that hibal tested http://hibal.tistory.com/1077 . Designed by YoO (309 series/301-dx) Basically says while testing different actuators some had issues but all in all feels like a good lever.
Nearly positive that crown dustwashers are the exact same size as JLF no shaft cover dustwashers, or focusattack has custom plexi dustwashers.
An update after using the Tae lever with golden parts more now… 15 mm actuator and 9mm shaft is preferred. Was getting dashes (F F input) much better with smaller actuator and less missed inputs when doing continuous movement drills. The original soft gromett that came with the stick is my go to now, its harder than the green and i feel and is optimal for the return to neutral, especially since i find dashing harder on the Tae compared to the 309MJ, maby because the collar?. After all the messing around, the basic setup was my favourite. Was definetly a mission to try all the setups with a good amount of time. The dark blue gromett may be worth a try later.
The down input V2 actuating force i really think it does make a difference, but i’ve yet to change it back to the AM5 to try that, but just my feel of the AF it would make sense to work better. I’ve threaded some of these switch nails quite bad 
Thanks to everyone again
would really like to try a collared Helpme one day.