Because they always made cabinets with 28mm inserts. If you want something similar to a CWB-203A, then just settle with Sanwa OBSF-30 buttons since both are linear action.
The CWB-203C and the 207H buttons, while 28mm, can fit 30mm inserts but you might as well get SDB-201 buttons. These are clicky based.
More or less. The 203 and 207 buttons are almost exactly the same except for the shape of the rims being slightly different from each other. The 201 buttons look a lot like Sanwa buttons, maybe closer to Horiās Kuro buttons. The 201is 30mm based.
Crown is working with Crazy Dongpal to get something going again after his version of the 307 didnāt happen. Looks like Hibal got something to test with. So he was given a Shore A 35 grommet normally found on the Infiltration lever. He also have three new actuators of different sizes.
Take note that itās running on the flat plate version of the 303 instead of the normal collar gate that has a wider funnel than the 307 or 309 levers. I do wonder that if this products finalizes, will have a normal and/or chopped collar version.
I just recently modified my first fight stick with a new crown 309mj lever. My main complaint is that it feels to stiff and i would like to make it feel somewhat lighter and easier to move. I already have a low tension rubber (st 25). After playing around with it for a day i came to the conclusion that it was the switches that have high tension when i move the stick further away from neutral. Are there switches i can purchase with less tension to replace the ones that came with the crown? Ive heard the fantas are lighter but i dont know much about fight sticks to begin with. i recently tried to look for a site that has the FLF-ST Lever for purchase because i heard it was low tension and had light switches but i cant find it anywhere for sale and its sold out when i do find it. If there is no way to make my current lever feel less stiff is there other Korean style levers that can be recommended to me with a lighter feel?
Only suggestion I can offer is to work up your stamina and strength. Thatās pretty much the lightest youāre going to get right now, what switches did you get the AM5s or the A3s? Maybe try A2 switches, Taeyoung Fanta might be lighter but not be much. Maybe try a JLF and a bat top if you want lighter.
hello everyone, been a while since I posted. give you all an update on my golden Fanta mod , my Samducky301 and my use of the 301. I ended up using my shafts from my Golden Fanta mod with my 301. took the center piece from the gromet and put it in one of my extra grommets from my samducky 301 gromets. works pretty good , only thing Im wishing for is a REAL octogate. I ended up making one from the extra square circle gate Crowned messed up sending instead of the square gate(I think they forgotten about us pre-order peeps) I had an extra broken octogate from my jlf and cut out with an exato nife the center of the gate out,
so far so good . my samucky 301 has been the most used lately, love the option to make them short or long theow.
questioned, anyone making a True Octogate? I noticed Wazwuz did something right after I bought my Golden Fanta mod kit, was a lil bummed out about it but what can you do? being unemployed for almost 1 1/2yrs and Im doubt Iāll be any purchasing anytime soon
Someone posted months ago about the Myoungshin having a new white actuator. I ordered a Myoungshin from Makestick for testing/modding purposes and it did indeed come with the white actuator.
It is 15,2mm.
@AlexxTheGreaat itās normal for the tension to get stiffer the further you push on the grommet. Itās safe to assume you have A3s which are the stiffest switches compared to a2s and am5s. There really is no other way to go lighter than what is is now other than using A2s but that wonāt work well unless you have a smaller actuator than stock. The 309 has a smaller throw/ dead zone compared to fantaās so itāll have the least tension out of the 3.
@Chumpy very interesting that they changed the actuator size. From my experience a2s do work better with smaller actuators and a3s work better with bigger actuators. With that new actuator itās possible to use it on the fujin with golden fanta shafts. That way you donāt have to modify the stock fujin actuator like I did.
Does anyone know how much the collar is supposed to stick out on K-mount levers? I saw someone said roughly 2mm but Iād like to be as arcade perfect as I can. The distance between the back of the top plate to the mounting plate of the lever would be even better.
its going to be hard to find a2 or am5s to buy individually. you can still get them from other levers. my myoungshin came with a2s. crown 303 and helpme 309 came with am5s. i dont know if there is any guarentee you will get those switches with those levers though. also i donāt know how you would feel about buying levers just for switches for your mj, assuming you dont have a korean stick to use them in. i was kind of in the same boat too, i tried buying some cheap switches to take the tab/hinge out to do some frankenstein build for cherry dx and omron switches. i couldnāt find tabs that would fit those switches though, but i still think it would work.
I believe A2s are lighter but keep in mind a lot of people had issues with the long actuation distance of the A2 in the 309MJ. Iām not sure if it was specific to a certain model of A2 switches but even riding the gate it was very easy to miss diagonal inputs. Youāre much better off sticking with the A3s or finding AM5s.
The stock 309MJ is about as light as you can get with Korean levers. If you just got it I recommend playing on it for longer before you start swapping parts.
What makes the SDL-301 Infiltration lever different from a Crown 309MJ with Gersung A3 switches and a ST-35 grommet besides the gate?
I was planning on putting in a 25 grommet in the SDL-301 but thereās no point in paying 50 bucks for a gate