Korean arcade parts discussion

Oops i had a bug and seemed like my posts didnt go through , i did the sand paper but after play few hours it became slippery again maybe ill have to rubb harder ? but am afraid if i keep doing it ill have a pencil for a stick in few weeks lol

@Marios I wouldn’t sand the shaft too hard because maganese bronze is very brittle unlike stainless. If you sand it you will notice dust coming off of it and lots of it. One other thing to note is the material has the tendency to be porous and if you go too far your shaft will no longer be round.

Ive found a very strange thing can someone enlight me on the matter… so i was trying out rubbers and grommets and everything to find what fits me about stiffness…and one day i gave to much force with the pincher to the eclip into the shaft if u know what i mean , sudenly the lever felt super super tight and stiff wich is not that its bad i kinda like it but how does that work ? i cant twirl it around wich is nice it kills abit of the slippery ive had but it feels i have a hard rubber while am using a medium .

@Marios I’m guessing you bent the e-clip a tiny bit and as a result it’s pushing against the actuator at a slightly different angle which results in not being able to twist the battop/shaft. The play between the e-clip, shaft and actuator is non-existent which is why your grommet feels a lot stiffer than it should. There are numerous ways to imitate this effect and one of them is to put the bushing in upside down on the fujin. Using a taeyoung shaft with golden fanta actuator will also do the same.

How is everyone doing with the Golden Crown?

For me the sweet spot has been:
Blue 55 grommet
9mm (medium) shaft
Plastic Sanwa battop
16mm (large) actuator
1mm spring
A3 switches

I’ve been going back and playing older games like Tekken 5dr and Soul Calibur II with this stick and having a blast.

blue grommet, small shaft, medium actuator, no spring (for whatever reason springs caused the joystick to go randomly off-center, i.e. travel of left vs right is not the same), plastic bat top.
4x gersung A3s (they are a bit more quiet than AM5). I tried to use 1xA2 for crouch, but it destroyed my kbds, so I switched back

Got my kaze lever lastnight and after breaking it down I’ve noticed that the grommet is the soft red ones that makestick sells and there are no longer 3 holes drilled per cardinal direction. Actuator seems to be 16mm and shaft is 10mm. I have no clue what body they use on this lol I’ll post pics of it broken down later today. Comes with all a3 switches now and I tested it with the Am5 and A2 for down but found I was more consistent with the all A3 set up. Regardless of what switches used I never missed diagonals and electrics come very fast. In a way it’s quick like the crown 309 but at the same time feels more like a myoungshin since it has a bigger throw. Will do more testing with it tonight.

309Helpme PS4 setup:

Blue 55 grommet
8mm (small) shaft
Sanwa LB-30N clear battop
15.5mm (medium) actuator
1mm spring
AM5 switches

309mj PS3/X360 setup:

Green 45 grommet
9mm (medium) shaft
Sanwa LB-30S/N white battop
16mm (large) actuator
stock spring
A3 switches

I’m very happy with both of these sticks. They’re different enough to be interesting, but they both work very well.

im using this exact setup with a2 down switch. i might eventually change to the green grommet, but this is working really well for me.

Exact same thing happened to me lol I can’t use the A2 set up at all with the 309s

Anyone around that has some knowledge and can help fast, tommorow i have day off finally so am thinking gonna make an art for my stick , what paper do i have to print it with so its looking good and not get destroyed easily ?

I think you got the wrong thread but if you want to prevent artwork from getting destroyed you need to cover it with plexiglass, and throw in a K-stick while you’re at it to keep things relevant.

Is it the standard Kaze with the collar?

I think my golden fanta and golden crown mods got lost in the mail. :s

In other news I got my hands on a Razer Panthera and installed the infil stick on it. I still don’t really see why people keep saying that thing is loose, feels very stiff to me. Stiffer than the Myoungshin and current era Taeyoung. At least for the early (more important) force required. Once you really manhandle it the lever does bottom out easily though. That’s true.

I think I’ll switch to a 35A grommet when I can get my hands on one. I find that the 45A is only good if you’re on a fixed surface like an actual cab. Even installed in a VLX, playing on the 45A causes the entire stick to move around.

@Snubnoze It’s for am etokki omni if I remember correctly and he is using a taeyoung with golden fanta parts.

@MeiliIsCharm yup comes standard with long collar.

Found a way to ditch the slippery sanwa battop on kaze lever without having to sand it. Myoungshin battop/shaft will work with kaze bushing and actuator. Only main difference besides esthetics is the myoungshin shaft is 9mm vs kaze’ s 10mm.

As promised the pics of the kaze v3 breakdown

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b208/TheOry8/20171002_173729.jpg[/img]

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b208/TheOry8/20171002_173714.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b208/TheOry8/20171002_173711.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b208/TheOry8/20171002_173335.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b208/TheOry8/20171002_173350.jpg

Will the Samducksa SDL-301-DX (Infiltration stick) work with a case that specifically expects a Korean stick (Fanta mounting)?

From what I’ve tested so far it will fit in the etokki and makestick. Just gotta switch the flat plate to korean if you’re using an etokki because the m4 screws are too long.

I’m wondering about the Panzer 3 Korean Edition… :stuck_out_tongue: @ā€œJasen Hicksā€ said it uses the Fanta mounting.

@ShinMagus it’ll fit in the panzer for sure but you still have to change the mounting plate to korean. Just got my panzer in today.