i just tried this in my myoungshin, its pretty impressive. movement feels fast and electrics come out consistently. it solved most of the problems I was having from different golden fanta configurations.
I didnāt know people were mixing and matching different kinds of switches on the same joystick?
Are there any other popular configurations like this?
Was gonna do a full conversion to K sticks. Currently on my MJ 309 with 35 grommett and A3 switches and tbh it works really good. But now instead of getting a replacement panel was going to get the a Panthera + step drill and save my TE2+ for Japanese stick.
Was going to get Wazwaz golden Fanta kit, use the 35 grommett and one of the actuators. The real problem i face is should i get the taeyoung or the Fanta if i have Wazās mods? or both? Because i know you have to change the shaft on the Tae to make everything work. Tried a few combinations with my 309 mj, the A2 switch to A3 and the 35 grommet made a massive difference and stock shaft/actuator. Now i just donāt want to spend any more money on shipping and get it right the first time.
Mishima player since the release of tekken 7 and the 309 MJ has been good to me, what setup have you guys found that works with the Tae or fanta (I myself am leaning more towards the Tae- will be 100% using the 35 grommet though) And coming to from the 309MJ what differences will i feel? Also, will A2 switches work well with the fanta or Tae because i found it horrible in the 309MJ for diagonals.
@m_abdalla3 why donāt you just get an omni etokki rather than drilling a 35mm hole into an panthera and buying a taeyoung? The main difference you will notice between the taeyoung/myoungshin is way bigger throw/dead zone. Been testing out the golden crown this past week with A3s and Am5s and I noticed that while my cd is ridiculously fast I find doing kbd way harder than on my fantas. Currently using my taeyoung with 8mm shaft, 15mm actuator, stock grommet, a2 for down input and am5s for the rest. Gives really good balance out of all the setups I tried. As for golden fanta with myoungshin Iām having a very hard time trying to mimic the feel I have on the taeyoung. I main mishimas too btw but also play like 12 different characters.
Cheers for your insight @zero_requiem iāve considered it but i just flatout hate the case design to be honest haha. Had the original SF4 TE2 and i always wished i could open it up with ease and from amazon i can get the razer the same price as the etokki sent to Australia so thats another reason. Iāve had the TE2+ for a few years now and its really been the best thing iāve had. Only reason for a new stick is that i like to use the Hori hayabusa on 2d games, but the tekken experience has just been amazing that i want both. Yeah the AM5 are out of the question for me now, its too late
Sweet, i checked the review of the setups used on the Tae a page or so back, that was really helpful. The only concept i have trouble grasping is the what āthrow distanceā means. 8mm ; 9mm ; 10mm. ābigger size = shorter throwā-Could you help explain? and how does the length/feel of the shaft compare to the stock crown? Thanks again
No worries man. The te2 is a really good fightstick although Iād rather have a k-stick inside a panthera over the te2. I modded my te2 to fit korean levers but find even though I removed the pcb cover the wires still get it the way when closing the lid. Putting in a ufb into it is very difficult even when using an ez mod adapter. As for the etokki I can relate with having a hard time opening it with all the screws in place lol I also had the old round 2 te. Best to test set ups on a panthera and the etokki is for the finished product.
Ok so the smaller the shaft the longer the travel distance between neutral and the collar. Depending on what switches you go with will determine what size shaft/actuator you use. As for actuator the smaller the size the less sensitive it is when engaging the switches so if you use 16.5mm the stick will be super sensitive. Itās amazing how many set ups you can achieve but when you change 1 little thing it can effect how everything feels. For example i can cd/kbd like a madman with the 8mm shaft but the moment I use the 10mm I can longer kbd. Little things like that you will notice when you get the golden fanta kit. Just gotta find the perfect set up based on your style of play.
Hi, I have a question about the crown 309mj kms st25.
Itās really stiff compared to my sanwa jlf joystick,
Will the stiffness of it reduce by being used? It seems that I keep on missing inputs especially diagonal ones and qcf. Iāve heard that with fanta stick you have to break in the rubber for it become useful is it true for the crown joystick asswell?
Iām not particularly good on a stick however I can do combos more consistently with the sanwa with octagonal gate than with that crown stick mainly because of d/f and d/b and qcf and the force required for to register on the crown stick. Hopefully this makes sense
@ispanjolas as far as grommet stiffness goes you canāt go any lighter than 25A. Yes the grommet can get broken in but if the 309 is using A3s then that is partially why it feels as stiff as it does. As for missing diagonals if the 309 is an older model with A2s then itās normal because that problem has been solved with A3s. Honestly when I use a 25A grommet I feel like thereās no grommet in there and Iām guessing you are running a stock spring in jlf and thatās why the 25A feels as stiff as it does. When I switched over to the 309 from the jlf/seimitsu ls58 I used a stretched stock spring so the 309 I got felt too light for my taste.
Iām sensing english is not your main language and in this case stiffness is not the right word. If you actually think itās stiff (you have to use a lot of force / strength to move it), it will not get much better but your hand will get used to it. The silicon doesnāt really break in as rubber does (crown uses silicon). Missing inputs on a stock 309 MJ is in my opinion caused by the lack of stiffness and the switches. There might also be something stuck on your grommet. First step is to take apart the stick and check if there is something stuck in the grommet (silicon ring). Also check your switches, they should end in āA3ā, if they end in āA2ā, they are known to cause diagonals to be hard to hit. In that case you would need to buy new switches. If your switches are āA3ā and your grommet is fine, then the next step is modding to your preference by using a switch that is light to activate and has a sensitive activation point. I also recommend a crown to jlf bat top adapter which will make the shaft much lighter and thus make it feel more tense and āaccurateā.
@zero_requiem last question ahaha, but i would still like opinions from others on their preferred Waz combination on the Tae too. Do the A2ās work well on the Tae? does it have any issues like the crown does with microswitches?
And the stock gromett on the 309 feels like butter, even someone who is used to the sanwa should find that as a good starting point.
OK so I think Iām finally done modding this thing (for real this time)
309 MJ body
35A shore grommet
left and right microswitches: AM51630C69N (180gf operation force)
up and down microswitches: AM51630C65N (120gf operation force)
Crown to sanwa shaft adapter
jlf bat top
I donāt play Mishimas so I was reluctant to change the down switch but on practice mode I managed to get 3 electrics in a row with this mod, for someone that actually practices and uses Mishimas I can see them almost never missing with this setup. Also I havenāt been able to spot any downsides, my kbd is still the same speed (though I had to adjust a tiny bit), etc. So since it only has pros and no cons the switch stays. Changing the top switch also is for consistency with hopkicks and for 2D fighters (found myself not pressing up hard enough).
@warhead yes you can, you will have to swap the center piece with the one from your 309. be warned, this is very stiff, I do however suggest you try it out and the 35g one if you can get your hands on it.
No korean lever even the heaviest which is the fujin compares to the wrist breaking stiffness of the jlf with 4lb spring lol. Would most likely fall around 3lbs. Iāve used a 55A shore grommet on my mj and it wasnāt too bad.