Could you!? I do have a universal mounting plate I bought from the arcadeshock both at EVO this year, but I don’t know if that’ll make a difference.
You happen to know the clearance on it? I currently have a Hayabusa installed and I didn’t have any issue with it outside of removing the screw from the 5-pin PCB so the PCB can free float to clear the buttons right next to it.
I actually ended up using the 0.6mm spring and I’m liking it the most. I’m using it with the green grommet.
What kind of differences are you noticing versus the 1mm? I wasn’t gonna bother attempting using this as part of the combinations but if it’s noticeable I’ll give it a shot.
Koreans love grommets, confirmed.
Very informative post.
i have a tekken 5 hrap im looking to drop a korean stick into and finding it more difficult to understand than anticipated, looking for some clarification before i buy.
between the Crown CWL-309MJ with the japanese mounting plates and a myoungshin fanta…which is the easiest to install? currently the welded on mounting plates on the stick make it so that when i install jlfs i have to get the version without a mounting plate (one of these)
thoughts? appreciated
I had a custom plate with the Namco Noir layout done for my HRAP3 at tek-innovations and the 309MJ bolts right on. Would be nice if they offered a Fanta mount option. The top loader kit makes it way easier to get inside as well.
1.2mm would be interesting to try. I really like the 1mm spring. It’s subtle, but the heavier spring and heavier grommet feel really solid and consistent.
I got around to installing the green grommet, medium shaft, and large actuator on my 309mj with Gersung V0323A3 switches. This actuator/shaft combination has definitely enlarged the diagonals, which was needed. It works great for Raiden Jet Fighters, at least. I’ll try it on some fighting games later today, but I expect I’ll like it just fine.
My 309helpme jms is still rocking the smallest shaft, smallest actuator, blue grommet, and 1mm spring. I think this is going to continue to be my preferred setup for Tekken. The resistance is perfect, and the increased throw from the shaft/actuator combination is a huge improvement over stock.
@wazwuz Do you sell the Golden Crown parts separately? Or anyone on here willing to sell me theres?? I’m interested in the smallest shaft and biggest actuator of the Golden Crown Kit. I’ve been messing around with the Golden Fanta kit on my Myoungshin Fanta and realize I prefer the biggest actuator/small shaft.
[quote=“BIGWORM, post:2801, topic:174794”]
I have the Qanba Carbon which is the same case as the q1 as far as I know. I can confirm the 309MJ fits without issue. Just need the 8 to 5 pin conversion harness. Crown conversion shaft just allows use of removable threaded ball/bat tops.
Does anyone know if Wazwaz is still doing the Golden Crown Mod Kits?? I REALLY want to buy one lol
And I want to know if it’s for all Crown stick, or if it’s for certain ones. I just bought a 309MJ
It’s not a huge change and you can probably go without it. I used the 1mm spring with the green and clear grommets but I wanted a middle ground between those two tensions. Green grommet with 0.6mm spring helped with this a little. It’s a very subtle change and I feel like it only really makes a difference around the center, close to the dead zone.
I recently bought and installed a Crown 309MJ on my HRAP V and was wondering if the Crown JLF conversion shaft is compatible with it. I’m not used to how there’s very little space between the bottom of the battop and the base of the stick so I’m thinking of getting the conversion shaft(if it would even help solve my problem).
Also if there’s someone out there who has a 309MJ with a conversion shaft, could you share a pic of your stick please?
@sinonick Oh, so it doesn’t really add any height to the shaft? Oh well :\ Anyway, thank you for the pic!
That is a Korean mount version of 309? So the collar is higher than the MJ. Maybe you would have more height with the MJ + conversion shaft? Check out the pics on FA for the shaft
Paradise arcade shop also has a longer shaft for the 303 which should be compatible too
I’m remember handling the conversion shaft on 309mj with clear bat top but ended up returning the whole lot due to issues with Gersung A2 switches. It seemed taller.
@wazwuz. Also mostly yes. It’s mainly designed for the Crown 309 and 303 levers. You won’t be able to use some parts in the kit if it’s a 307.
What’s up with that spacer around the collar?
@“The Phantomnaut” It was my first attempt at drilling a 35mm hole, the result was a butchered HRAP, had to cover the mess I was left with
in case you’re wondering, I took a clear JLF dustwasher set and cleanly widened it’s hole to 35mm, then painted the bottom of it with a black marker
i’ll do another one soon and i’ll spray paint the bottom for a “factory” result
the clear dustwasher also proved useful when I needed to use a non-collared lever on an already 35mm drilled panel. widen the dustwasher to 28mm and you’re set, you can put a regular dustwasher on top without it falling or “biting” into the 35mm hole
https://imgur.com/a/WRDMy
i’ve done more minor tweaks like those, for example fixing the taeyoung fanta squeeking/creaking with tape (much harder than it sounds)
@sinonick, I own the old Madcatz TES so I could just get a plexi laser cut to 35mm for me which is what i plan to do. I know that this doesn’t fix the butchered metal panel but it means that no one has to know 
. Doesn’t your stick allow for a plexi too? You could probably add some nice art to it too.
Also, could you show us some more of that butchered panel? I’m interested in seeing what it would look like if i messed up 
Low Key, i kinda like the panel butchered with the dust cover :love:
@ProgressiveBalance I don’t have a picture, but i have a story to tell lol
I couldn’t wait for the step drill to arrive so i tried to widen the hole by grinding around the edge with a regular drill bit for metal + filing it
the result was VERY ugly + the metal plate had bent and I couldn’t correct this without hammering it (I didn’t)
note on the HRAP, the top panel is plastic NOT plexiglass. it melts VERY easy, also leaves molten plastic on the drillbit, go VERY slow with intervals
when the step drill arrived I drilled all the way to 39mm, leaving a huge gap around it, still very ugly because the unsymmetrical drilling I did previously, exceeded the length of the 39mm hole
my advice is this, go for a drill press if you have a choice, if not, don’t do anything unless you have a step drill.
and one more, very important detail, DO NOT settle for a 36mm step on a drill bit, only go for 35mm, that 1mm difference leaves a small ugly gap that is enough for you to see the metal plate of the lever below the panel
I originally bought a step drill that had a 36mm step, thinking the difference was negligible, bad choice
Ouch, a lesson in patience first and foremost I guess.