Very interesting to read. Would you suspect that I could have a faulty or malfunctioning microswitch, then? I’ve tested it comparatively against my old 309MJ with the Matsushitas (which doesn’t have much extensive use in itself, either; it’s only been used for a handful of games I play) and I am super consistent with it, meanwhile the new 309MJ I received with the Gersung A3s gives me constant problems with any input that involves the down-right direction. I’ve already filled out a Return Request with Focus Attack, though; if this information is of any relevance to my case, it could affect other joysticks being sold.
I haven’t noticed any inconsistencies in my A3’s but I’m still new to the Korean levers so I’m not coming from a standpoint of experience. My percentage on technique execution has gone way up with this stick compared to JLF however.
The actuator seems fine, can’t really find flaws with it. I suppose I’ll really have to open the thing up to get to the grommet and see if there’s anything wrong with that?
Recurrent problems with K-levers:
-warped (thus offcentered) grommets. I agree with Sinonick, it is very common, supposedly the new silicone parts have less problems, but there isn’t enough feeback to know. Elastomeric parts shrink during fabrication and the shrinking must be controlled : correctly designed molds, heat, curing method etc.
-slightly curved/bent shafts (unknown reason, poor stocking conditions? poor turning? other?) seems to be less of a concern with the recent models
-warped and or caved in sides and thin sections of the body, generally lower part of the grommet housing was the worst (due to shrinking, happens when molding is done the cheap way by cutting costs and time along with shit QC) . The bottom opening (which serves as a primitive restrictor) can be then offcenter . Crown is very well aware of that problem : they promised the SDL301 would be of better quality, they even implemented an internal steel plate to rigidify the bottom side of the grommet housing for the production model, small apertures show the plate from the top.
-actuators when injection molded are not well finished at all , often have horrible flashes and can be slightly assymetrical,sometimes the two parts of the piece don’t even seem to meet properly … the recent turned actuators are much neater, rectitude and roundness are more or less guaranteed for the latter. Designers probably thought that cutting costs wasn’t a big deal as the lever was supposed to be broken in so that flashes disappear from being worn off after a few days or weeks of heavy use in arcades. wishful thinking.
-rarely the grommet bushings are warped (injection molded), but if so can complicate the situation even further (see above) , also certain sections are sometimes a bit on the thin side especially for the thin fanta type bushings which do not have the upper lip for the spring compared to a Crown 303/309 (fantas are spring-less), the turned delrin grommet bushings are a real improvement,material is sturdier too, see Fujin and SDL301 parts for the latter example. No mention of that but it does play a role for a smoother feel when pivotal and or friction parts are turned and have …a smooth finish.
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myoungshin. they just recently started to sell the taeyoung lever.
thanx, i thought it was the myoungshin so i’m assuming i have rev 6 then?
that I don’t know, it might be revision 7 since they’ve been selling rev7 for several months now, maybe a year. I don’t know if there’s a way to tell honestly.
so I just received Taeyong from etoki. and I can confirm that golden fanta is compatible for taeyong.
i find taeyong have better bottom support for switches. so you can just use the top switch support from golden fanta.
http://i.imgur.com/MYLdaqR.jpg
although it is have slightly better quality than myoungshin. it still have some flash left. don’t forget to clean the flash inside the collar
http://i.imgur.com/wqjHC6I.jpg
IMO. taeyoung actuator is the worst actuator compare to other korean stick. it was not symetical and quality is cheap.
the switces placement indeed closer than myoungshin. about 1mm closer. this will benefit smaller size actuator.
to support this, retail version golden fanta will have 15mm actuator.
mine comes with A2 switch (maybe next time i will try omron). after trying it a shot session, I still prefer my golden moded myoungshin (using panasonic switch).
Just look at the battop and you’ll know right away. If it’s shiny smooth black finish its myoungshin and if its a little faded with a texturized finish it’s a taeyoung. One other thing to mention is the taeyoung has a big nub on the underside of the battop.
IST is selling a modified 309 lever by Kaze. Uses Gersung GSM-V1623A3 switches and a seemingly smaller actuator. Has normal, flat plate and MJ builds. Might not matter too much to us with the Golden Crown being something.
Also got my Infiltration lever and the first thing I did was install the bat top to my Golden Fanta shaft.
I dont know how to feel about the Infiltration lever. On one hand its a nice piece of craftsmanship, but on the other the stock A3 switches it comes with actuate so quickly that the gate is basically pointless to have. Throwing on the A2s make the throw more enjoyable for me, but then the diagonals become ridiculously small. If I had a set of AM5s this stick might be perfect for me, but alas I do not.
is there any place where we can buy AM5s? I ordered a set of new Seimitsu switches with bent hinges (AM5 replacement) and stock 309mj actuator is too big for them. Actuation travel is like 0.1mm. You can move by literally blowing air at the lever 
Waiting for golden crown to see if smaller actuator helps.
@ewok if you don’t mind me asking, where did you get the bent lever ones? (i suppose you’re talking about the omrons from the ls-300 (2017 ls-32))
Jeez.
Well I opened up the 309MJ’s housing to see if anything was wrong with the grommet.
I can’t really spot anything wrong to be honest.
I have the hardest time hitting corners on the Taeyoung. I bought the A3 switches to see if it would improve but I’ll have to get a new screwdriver first since it uses smaller screwheads than I have a screwdriver for.
I think you’re right about the actuator being terrible. I really want to get a new actuator for that thing. Not sure where to find one though…
And yeah there’s a lot of flash inside the collar of mine as well. Not sure if it actually impacts the movement of the lever but it sure looks cheap.
@Hassun on my 309MJ I have a similar issue, as i look from above the lever with the shaft removed I see the center of the grommet not being centered below the collar. This is not true for my 309HelpMe which was perfectly centered. I didn’t need to open the lever to see that btw.
have you try to change the switches position?, maybe you have a bad switch
I Have 4set of Golden Crown left in stock, If anyone want it, you can inbox me.
my opinion is its the silicone grommits in the 309mj thats at fault either the grade of silicone or how its manufactured im not an expert to pinpoint it but what i do know is if you have a 303n rubber grommit and try that with gersung a3 switches its night and day difference !
i have tried gersung a3 switches alone with the standard 35g silicone grommit and its still terrible but with the rubber grommit its very responsive so the fault points to the silicone grommit in the 309mj.
Is there any way to correct this? I feel like I can make the centre of the grommet move just by jostling the lever around a bit.
Yeah I tried it with multiple A3 and A2 switches. No change.
Sadly this is the only Crown lever I own.