Would be interested to know too before placing an order @Agieze , damn shipping fees. Mightove been stated before though, cheers
The first two numbers stand for 16A (amps). The old switch was rated for 3A. I assume they should be the same mechanically otherwise. I donāt think it matters for joysticks.
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If onlyā¦
V03 is 0.3A, not 3A
V3 is 3A rating, as per the nomenclature on http://gersung.kr/eng/product/micro_switch.html
V16 is not an update, it was there before in k-levers, some people just forgot lately and anyways it was one of the best selling models (hinge lever 16A 200gf spst no).
Joystick manyfacturers prefer higher amp ratings for switches as a safety margin even if it concerns use in a cab or a fightstick. Suffices to see the ratings of the switches used by Sanwa, Seimitsu etc. Actuation specs for same operating force, same actuator( hinge lever) , same temp rating are the same. Load/current rating will affect mainly service life (it generally concerns the plating on the contact elements, ).
Planning on picking up the 309HelpMe, the one with new A3 switches, from FA. I also wanna get a higher tension grommet. Can someone please point me towards one thats compatible with the 309. I saw one for 303 and 307, but not sure if it will work with 309 lever. Thank you in advance!
@Genesys 303 has a black rubber grommet that is slimmer, it definitely isnāt right for the 309.
the 307 has a silicone 55g grommet, iāve heard of people using them on 309s and even makestick.com selling them together with the 25g and 35g grommets. Someone else can verify if it is indeed a good choice for the 309.
Also, thumbs up on the 309helpme. itās a great lever.
I am currently using one with panasonics and crown conversion shaft + sanwa battop (to reduce the weight). I definitely prefer it over the 309MJ (with panasonics) and the taeyoung fanta. Waiting for my A3 switches from FA now to see how those perform.
@wazwuz got an ETA on the Golden Crown kit?
Also, what about the weight of the actuators in the kit? Is the difference in weight noticeable? If yes, have you considered making them lighter or is it possible at all?
303mj and 309mj both use 25A thick grommet, just to say, so all this talk about the 303 concerns the old version with full collar and the neckless āFā type both of which used the slimmer grommets.
307 grommets (55A & 60A) have old 303 latex grommet dimensions but are made of silicone.
309 silicone grommets are identical in shape except theyāre thicker and only in 25A & 35A hardness.
SDL301DX introduces new hardness variation -45A- , supposedly thickness would be exact same as for 309 and also out of silicone.
Concerning grommet swapping being supposedly right or not between lever models : ā¦officially 303,307 and 309 grommets (and shafts) are all compatible whatever the type (new "M"neckless, old āFā neckless, full korean neck, MJ chopped neck etc) and that is coming from Crown themselves. Up to you to decide if thereās too much play, anyways the spring is generally there to stabilize the grommet and prevent most of that wiggling. Spacers to be placed on the sides could be used if you really think itās too slim for your preference( thin plate of nylon or delrin, it isnāt expensive on ebay) . For thickness difference, go on Hibalās tistory blog,itās something like 1.5mm or barely more you need to check it out yourself.
I think the only thing that the thickness would actually affect between the 303/307 and 309 grommets is how itāll sit in the plastic center for 309 sticks. Since the spring pushes down on the plastic and not the grommet itself, there could be some vertical play with the grommet that could cause it to sit crooked or move during play.
Iāve got a 309MJ on the way and would be interested in the next round of Golden Crown kits of spaces are available.
I avoided purchasing the grommet from FA due to the reasons stated above, and want to be able to try out some stiffer grommets.
in my case the 60A grommet on the 309MJ was about the same hardness with the silicone 35A, felt different though and had huge dead zone, lever could be moved around in neutral with no āreturnā to center
Just out of curiosity what is it about the 309helpme that you like better than the 309mj. The 309mj was my first korean lever but after extensively playing on the taeyoung, myoungshin and fujin itās hard for me to go back to a lever with a smaller dead zone. With that being said i have a 309helpme and infiltration lever on the way simply to see how they perform compared to the 309mj. I just like to test different set ups to see whatās out there even if reviews arenāt the greatestā¦cough cough crown SDL-301.
@zero_requiem First off, i have all three of 309FJ, 309MJ and 309Helpme (I caught stupid lately and bought a ton of levers to try out or to salvage). Body wise theyāre exactly the same, collar wise HelpMe and MJ has the same throw from what i āfeltā, however the HelpMe has more of a āknockā when it hits the collar, MJ is more of a ābumpā (thatās probably because of the shape and how far the collar is from the grommet which is the āpivot pointā). 309FJ has less throw, enough that you can barely hit diagonals with the panasonics on, just forget the FJ exists and youāre good.
Now on to HelpMe and MJ, I have a 35g grommet on both. However I have installed the crown conversion shaft on the HelpMe, and a Sanwa battop. This made a big difference, it shortened the height of the lever by 1-2mm and the battop/shaft is significantly lighter). Iām installing the same shaft/battop to the 309MJ soon.
One thing to note, they all came with panasonics and my experience with them is BAD. You can barely touch the hinge lever on itās side and it will become loose. Enough so that it will ājogā up and down along the actuator, this makes the lever very unpredictable, itās like the actuation and/or release point āfloatsā at random to different places. After installing the HelpMe I barely touched it just to avoid this from happening, all my other panasonics are ālooseā now and barely usable. This did not happen on any other switch I have tried/fiddled with, none of them got this by handling them (even roughly at times).
TL;DR: If you put the 35g grommet on the 309MJ, itās effectively the same with the HelpMe lever. Using the crown conversion shaft and a Sanwa battop makes it much faster and a bit stiffer. Panasonic switches that come with some 309s have very very sensitive hinge levers that can go loose if youāre not very careful handling them.
@sinonick very detailed explation thanks! Iāve used Panasonic Am5ās from my fujin on my 309mj and never had that problem. Do you know if the fujin am5s are the same as what came with the old 309s? My 309mj came with A2s from focus attack. Iām excited to try out the gersung A3ās I ordered today from focus attack on the 309mj.
@zero_requiem The 309s came with the *69N model, the other model (that is typically on the Seimitsu LS-32) is the *C5N.
Some of the switches were bad all along, some others became loose after some use and reinstalling them a few times and in one case one got loose by simply holding it from the hinge lever and shaking lightly. The last 309 I got iām not fiddling with to avoid any chance of damaging the switches.
Iām also hyped about the A3s, and iām expecting them in the mail soon.
This video is from some of my bad panasonics, keep in mind those have gotten worse after a bit of violent shaking and pushing on itās side which is not part of itās normal function (like on the video). But this should give you a rough idea of how they ābecame looseā.
Someone pointed out to me that they could simply have gotten broken in, and that this is normal. Opinions?
https://youtu.be/42DlfAum-So
@sinonick those switches look and sound absolutely fine i have many panasonics like that there is always gonna be slight play in them here and there have you pulled one apart to see how it works?
i would only be concerned if the switch does not register an input when pressed
@sinonick I think that play between leaf lever and actuator pin is normal. Itās been like that with my levered microswitches.
Also, good idea with the crown jlf conversion shaft, I have one and havenāt thought of trying that out. Hopefully itāll make the 35A grommet feel like it has a little more tension for me
@sinonick I agree with @jey-are and @Rokwho my Panasonicās were like that the very first time I took them out of the fujin. Compared to gersungs the play between the hinge and actuator is a lot greater thatās why it rattles like that. Yup those switches that came with the 309 are the same as the fujinās.
Going to try the A3s in all my levers just to see how they feel. So far for korean levers the Panasonic am5 is king but weāll see.
I was considering getting an etokki Omni sometime. How often is it that new revisions come out?
How stiff is the grommet in the Taeyoung Fanta that comes with it?
Check Etokkiās Twitter since they usually post updates there. The Taeyoung grommet feels pretty light.
Etokki says that the taeyoung is equipped with a soft grommet. So itās nowhere near as stiff as it used to be.
@milkdrinker10773 itās soft and very fast. I love the feel of the taeyoung, my only gripe with it is I canāt do fast triple forwards on 2P side (weak thumb? dunno). I find it to be a great lever especially for SRK motions and such, for circular motions I prefer the 309 + riding the gate.
@Rokwho @jey-are @zero_requiem thanks for the replies! Just a question though, is it not an issue if the levers come in contact with the actuator at different heights? Iāll keep looking into it, this inconsistency on my 309MJ is driving me mad! I will switch the grommet to make sure it has nothing to do with it and then iāll try and see if there is something else that could be wrong with the switches.