Korean arcade parts discussion

Noticed Paradise Arcade Shop has the Crown purple shafts in stock now, glad to finally be able to get one.

Also, where in the world can I find a set of A3 switches to buy?

Hey guys, been viewing for a long time, first time posting.

So 2 months ago i purchased a 309mj from focusattack. I placed the order and a few days later item shipped off to my location. Then a few days after that focusattack emailed me, essentially stating that they had to cancel my order and heres a refund. Supposedly the samducksa guys messed up the order and shipped a 303n instead of my 309mj. So whatever, i got my money back no problem.

Few weeks ago when evo was going on focusattack had a 20 percent sale. Ordered the 309mj again, this time i remembered to place in a harness too. Didnt do that the first time. So i didnt think much of it and just waited for my order. Last week a 309mj arrived, but no harness. This was apparently the cancelled order that they werent supposed to ship to me, but sure i got it anyway. Then a few days ago another 309mj showed up with a harness. I thought they were the same thing but the first one i received was a 309mj-KMS and the recent one was 309mj-jms. The JMS came with a v2 switch which is horrible, i couldnt get my diagonals in check.

Does anyone know what the switches are on the 309mj-KMS? it feels so much better in comparison. I took the actuator from the JMS and put in the KMS, its slightly bigger and im just able to hit my df and db all day.

ive been playing fg for about 3 and a half years, and i allways played with a sanwa jlf. Currenty im only playing tekken 7, blazblue and guilty gear. In tekken 7, i had the movment done, kbd on p1 and p2 and wavedash on p1 p2, the problem comes in with ewgf. I was thinking that picking up s korean stick, the ewgf will came easier, but the crown 307 feels so wierd, unplayeble for me, i cant do the kbd any more, and its impossible to play comfortable for me. And in blaz and gg, its alot harder to make the motions. And no to mention that the neutral zone has a huge dead soace. hit the diagonals are so hard for me, and the right/up switch is more hard then the right and down. Antone else have the same trouble in 307fj?? And if i pick a myoungshin fanta, it will feel so ā€œhardā€ and unconfortable to play, soecially in guilty gear ? Tkanks

I dig your custom switch support you made yourself. Something about how it dodges the corners where the screw goes seems enticing because it goes over the flattest part of the switches. The corners where the screws go looks like there’s a subtle height difference from the rest of the switches. Could that be causing the subtle gap between switch and support plate? I know it’s a given to see gap from switch to bottom mold/housing on a myoungshin because it’s not 100% flat either. Which makes sense why the Green lever that Knee plays on, the use that swastika looking plate to ensure flatness/support between bottom housing and switches.

I got annoyed at my Makestick order never coming so I ordered again from them minus a few things and it arrived within 4 days of making the order. Protip: don’t buy a Sanwa balltop & battop handle along with your Korean parts because you will never get your order, but if you order 3 PCBs and 10 USB cables you will get 3 PCBs and 13 USB cables in 4 days.

Wow. Wasn’t there a guy who posted like a couple months back saying he was the new contact? Or at least dropped a new email contact? I take it nobody had success with him?

Thanks man I made it at work. Umm with my switch support it’s completely flat but with the golden fanta u can see that the switches are somewhat diagonal because it’s not being pushed down fully. I made a new switch support today that I will be trying out that isn’t as hard to take off as the previous one. Very interesting that Knee’s switch support is shaped like that. Mine is more along the lines of the green arcade lever. With the circle u are pushing down on the inside corner of the switches which are what move and are not parallel to the underside of the switch. If i have to i will make the golden fanta switch support’s holes oval so I can use them.

Yeah I was meaning the inner support on the green land/arcade lever in general (didn’t mean knee specifically, I just know he plays on one). Yeah man, you might have to in order to get your holes to line up.

Ok so I have a TE2+ fightstick and I just bought a Myoungshin Fanta lever. So basically I’ll need a drill, get a Step drill that is 35mm, take off the plexi/panel from the fightstick and drill the whole in each separately??

Pretty much but I advise u to not use the step drill on the plexi glass. Use a forstner bit instead for the cleanest cut on plexi. The cheaper alternative would be to use a hole saw instead. If you aren’t able to find 35mm for any of these you can use 1 3/8" instead. Lastly you need a Kowal plate converter to mount the k-stick. If you are not able to get one and have an extra sanwa jlf base plate you can modify it to fit onto the k-stick. One thing i forgot to mention is to drill the metal panel completely separate from everything. As for the plexi you can put everything back together buttons included then remove top half of te2+ then drill through plexi from the bottom while using the metal panel as a guide.

Oh I see. So I’ll need to get a Step Drill for the top metal panel and a Forstner Bit for the Plexi?

Yup :slight_smile:

Thanks bro, appreciate the help.

Oh another question…will a cordless Drill be able to drill through the metal panel??

Yeah, couldn’t really get anything sorted. That first order has been lost to the void.

I’m not sure what the JMS is. Are you talking about the CWL-309MJ-KMS-ST25 (with the low collar) vs. the CWL-309Helpme-K-KMS-ST35 (with the high collar)?
Normally they both use the Gersung A2 switches but people have been having some issues hitting diagonals on those and are switching them out for A3 switches.

You can look at the switches on bottom of the stick and read the code if you want to be sure.

307 isn’t a good lever. Unless your stick is ready for normal Korean levers with the 35mm collar gate, look into Crown’s 309.

No worries man. Just ask if you need any help or advice! I just did this to my te2+ recently so it’s still fresh in my mind. Oh 1 more tip for you is to make sure you cut the plexi dead center of the metal panel or the k-stick won’t line up properly. This happened to me and I had to force the top part of the k-stick through the hole. I ended up making the hole bigger with a deburring tool but it’s best to just get it right the first time around. I didn’t use my original plexi and artwork that way I can always go back to it if I ever needed to for other games that need a Japanese lever. Focus attack will have it if you decide go this route and might as well get extra artwork as well.

I did mine with a powerful cordless drill so it’s possible. You don’t need to drill it super fast so it should be just fine. Same with the plexi you can use a cordless.

If anyone spots good reviews of the Infiltration lever make sure to link them here. I’m very curious.