@SirGoggles posted a demonstration a few pages ago of the A2 switch vs the A3 switch in the 309MJ. While I have not personally tested it (I was intending on ordering a few switches, including the A3, to test in the 309), it seems to me that the A3 should allow the 309MJ to function as intended. @POGNAIX mentioned that players in Korea have been swapping out the A2 switches for the A3 as a fix as well. So I think it would be safe to say that switching to A3 for your next restock is the best solution since you’re unable to acquire the JMS version anymore.
Sorry - I meant the difference between A2 and A3 not Panasonic and A3. Unfortunately, since Panasonic are no longer manufactured, I was trying to find out which model folks here thought work best in the existing 309 MJ and Helpme models.
Chiming in with my experience, although it’s already been stated – A3s over A2s is a no brainer. This is pretty much the defacto recommendation made in Korean forums for 309 problems and diagonals.
That said, I don’t know if there’s consensus that “the A2 problem” is due to a bad batch of A2s used by Samducksa for a period of time, or an inherent flaw in the design of the 309 lever matched with the specs of the A2 switch. Korean forums reference 309s sold by Crown during a few week period back in June/July as being “bad”. Don’t know if they got a good batch of A2s, or if they switched to A3s, or what.
For what it’s worth, FA offering different models of microswitches for customers to play with is certainly nice, especially with the recent Kaze / Helpme V2 trend of a having a weaker switch for the up or down, depending on playing style.
So what I’m getting out of the last few posts is that the crown 309’s I’ve recently purchased from FA have defective microswitches?
It’s not defective. The switches are fine. But the combination that was delivered results in awful collar riding.
If you have another stick you can try swapping your A2’s from the 309 and see if that helps.
@wazwuz bit late but just wanted to thank you my man i think i have truly found my ideal setup with the golden fanta kit and i am definitely not touching another stick for a while. I main mishima’s in t7 and its perfect! so thanks for all the work you put into the kits
those wondering im using the green 45 grommit with 10mm shaft 16.5 acuator panasonic switches no switch plate as it pinches the switches way too low on the base needs some under switch support like the green arcade metal plate to make them sit flush
[quote="jmanDMC;c-11382035"
My question regards the A2 and A3 microswitch. I’m not going to pretend that I am an aficionado of Korean levers. Customers desire these models, and of them the JMS resonated strongly over Gersung, which is why I chose that model. Carrying all of the Samducksa configurations isn’t economically feasible for me. But recently the A2’s installed in the recent restock has reported some control issues with diagonals. Some here are reporting that the A3 addresses this, and my supplier has already said that he can switch to A3 in the next restock. What I’d like to ask as a novice to Korean levers is - what is the preferred switch, save Panasonic JMS because we can’t get that anymore? Is it the A3? Agieze says it makes no difference. Can I get a consensus of what switch is best from the people that know and play on Korean levers?
Thanks![/quote]
If you could possibly stock spare A3s and replacement Crown rubber grommets for those who already have the 309, that would be great. And perhaps the soft Myoungshin grommet for Fanta users?
I got this from my supplier, paraphrased somewhat:
“I’m already order to change the A3 switches to the current production plus replacement for you and our stock in this morning.”
He hasn’t heard of a v2 Helpme, either. He did mention that Samducksa R&D team isn’t that adept, and often gets help from modders. That is why the “Helpme” model is called such. This might be pretty obvious at this point - just mentioning what he said.
At this point, I’m going to do the following:
Next restock will have A3 switches across the line. I will move A2 units until they sell out, and handle requests on a case by case basis.
I will carry stock of the A3 and A2 switches. As for replacement grommets, I will ask if possible to get. The Myoungshin grommet is a tougher call. I don’t know if I can get that part. My hope is that @wazwuz may find a way to replicate.
A few more things - I got information regarding the SDB-301-DX.
Samducksa is on vacation from 29th to 5th. They did not mention the release date to my supplier, so he doesn’t have the DX yet despite asking well ahead of time, and is likely not getting it until after the 5th. I don’t know if anyone stateside will have them on the 5th.
The per unit price is not cheap - close JLF silent retail. Anyone trying to lowball short term isn’t going to make much of anything on it - Samducksa is categorizing this as a premium product. You’ll decide whether it is or not.
The switch is not A2 or A3 - supplier mentions this: “They says this is special micro switch called ‘Jamil version’. (They call Infiltration as Jamil.)” I’ll have to check my sample to see if that is installed. No idea yet on its specs or performance.
Octo gate is the default. Circle gate was the original default accessory but they changed it. I don’t yet have a price on the circle gate, and likely won’t have them at launch.
It does have a removable battop, so it can accept accessories.
I’m picking up a few dozen units. No idea how they will move, so I’ll start at that and see what happens.
Hopefully, the SDB-301 DX will fit the Vewlix. Was thinking about using that on my TE2+ but that would require swapping out the Korean Panel with the Noir Panel on my Chun Li TE2.
@jmanDMC thanks for what your doing regarding the micro switches and infiltration lever. You are definitely doing your part. I can’t wait to try the new lever, not sure about what a jamil switch is or what jamil means but there is always google. The jamil switch isnt a different brand of switch is it, rather a different model or maybe a variant? Is that all the information they gave you. I know that @Agieze is going to have a great time trying to find that out too.=)
@jmanDMC I’ve recently bought a Crown 309-MJ with Gersung A2 switches.
I can confirm that A2 switches’ diagonal actuation area is minuscule: it’s just not possible to consistently hit it. It bothers me up to the point that I had to drop playing until my replacement A3 arrive.
I strongly advise to avoid A2 switches.
I strongly advise to avoid A2 switches.
i can imagine how shitty that must feel a2 are alot softer that said i have tried A3 gersung switches with myn and it does feel better only slightly but downside is there stiffer switches so you have to put alot more force into inputs overall wasn’t consistent enough for me.
I have tried many switches with that lever even trying some old starion switches i had still feels bad there has to be a design flaw with that lever somewhere
- SDL301DX comes in 25, 35 or 45 shore A hardness grommets (choice)
(contradicts what has been stated by Crown recently , that the “final” production model had supposedly 35A like the original 309Helpme, which itself contradicted the initial statements by designer Yo-O who stated that Infiltration preferred a harder grommet than what was offered in 309 line of products. Initial statement was spot on then, since Infiltration uses himself 45shore A hardness grommet in his SDL301DX)
That is why the “HST” (hardness-silicon-tension, akin to “ST” for previous Crown joysticks) mention on the cardboard box doesn’t have any value printed next to it, it depends on the order.
-
3 different colored clear battops (smokey green, red, transparent) (cardboard box has “COLOR” with no mention next to it, specified by client then)
-
circle or “circle square” restrictor. See the two boxes to be ticked on the cardboard box.
Note: the circlesquare term is plain wrong if they refer to what has been shown as production models lately. From the pics of both prototypes and both production model restrictors, the so called “circle square” is either a rounded octo (regular octagon, rounded corners), or even a rounded “octo-square” (rounded octagon corners, but the corners that correspond to diagonals have wider angle than cardinals, giving a feel almost like classic rounded square when crouching for example in fighting games) .
Prototype SDL had 3 types: rounded square, circle and rounded octo (or rounded octosquare maybe).
Production has lately two types: the octo looking part and the circle, but who knows, perhaps that changed as well and maybe they reintroduced the prototype rounded square? We’ll see soon enough.
True “circle square” shape looks like classic seimitsu and sanwa “square” (really rounded square) but with corner radius far greater than in the latter in question, making it look almost like a circle, but with 4 barely noticeable flat sides.
Octo type gate (production model according to latest posts, part is injection molded and looks somehow warped compared to protoype machined part ) for SDL301DX
Prototype SDL301 rounded square (not rounded enough to qualify as “circle square” in my book. Prototype quality: you can see the CNC tooling marks on the part )
Concerning the SWITCHES in SDL-301, Yo-O (designer) says this (figure it out) :
" ^^ 맞습니다 제가 설계한 제품이 비로소 출시가 되니 감회가 깊네요 ^^ SDL-301-DX 레버는 개발 단계 때 부터 거성 스위치를 사용하여 개발을 했던 터라 거성 스위치가 들어가고요 최근 문제가 됐었던 309에 들어갔던 거성 스위치와는 모델이 다른 모델입니다. "
did you buy the switches seperately or salvage them from a seimitsu?
Quick translation via Google.
The SDL-301-DX lever has been developed by using the giant switch since the development stage, and the giant switch is now in use. The model was a different model from the giant switch that went into 309.
So…obviously not Panasonic switches but does this mean switches aren’t gersung either?
did you buy the switches seperately or salvage them from a seimitsu?
they was indeed off other levers crown 309mj’s i got 3 sets
Gersung means giant when run thru google translate.
So I would infer this to mean yes, Gersung switches. I’d guess A3s based on the pics of the prototypes that are floating around.
Is there pics of the bottom floating around that I missed?