Iāve never ordered from them but most places cut the plexi glass to order so just ask them if they can do it. Cutting the plexi glass is very so just do it if tek innovations canāt cut it. Jasenās customs is the only shop that I know that makes both the plexi and metal panels but they arenāt making them atm.
The other couple of times I ordered from them, it arrived within a week or so but they seem to be having some problems this time around. I sent off an email but if I donāt get a reply within a few days Iāll cancel it and raise a dispute. Tbh I think the transaction is gone from my bank account and paypal.
So I found something interesting re: the offending button/switch. I took apart 2 other buttons in addition to the offending one. Turns out the offending button uses a different microswitch and plunger from the other 7 buttons in the set I ordered.
You can see the left button (the offending one) has the cross protruding from the plunger while the cross hole is in the switch. In the middle and right (as well as the other 5 buttons), itās the other way around (protrusion on switch stem, hole in plunger).
I checked on deskauthority and the switch is just another variant from the same series of Futaba switches as the ones in my buttons that are working. With that being said, the two different types feel pretty much the same; itās the fact that itās not working is the problem.
I dont know if the reason the button isnāt behaving well is because itās the odd one out. Regardless Iāve tweeted this to FocusAttack to see if they can do anything about it.
The odd one has the Cherry MX type slider and the usual production switches have the Futaba proprietary type slider .
You can forget about opening one, you proabbly read on Deskthority that theyāre welded during assembly with plastic pins and thus cannot be properly reassembled.
Once separated from the button plunger as presented in your photo, does the cherry mx keycap compatible switch behave the same way as the others when manually actuated?
you say they feel the sameā¦but are you reporting what is said on deskthority or is it what you personally felt once the button plunger removed?
Deskthority claims: "The keycap mount is not believed to be indicative of any difference in keyfeel. "
If the switches by themselves really give the same feel and feedback after testing,then the button design is the problem for the model housing a Futaba MA with Cherry MX slider or at least the plunger from that particular button is faulty and needs to be replaced.
Where can I get a stiffer grommet for a Crown 309mj? I have a fanta and really like the way the tension feels but donāt want to mod the only stick i have to fit it. So I bought a 309m at CEO this year since it will mount to my panthera, but it is just too soft. I want to get an omni to put the fanta in, but itās going to be awhile and I want to start getting used to a korean lever in the meantime.
Although itās sold out at the moment, theyāre pretty good at refreshing/replenishing their stock every few days or so. Not sure if itās an exact fit but looked pretty similar to me.
I did actually press the switches without the plungers. When I said they felt the same, I literally meant the way they felt when I pressed them with my finger. However the odd switch still doesnāt actuate the same as the other switches; it needs to be pressed all the way down, as opposed to the other ones which activate a bit after the click.
I recently bought an Etokki Omni and this is my first Korean stick. I am really liking everything about the product other than the Taeyoung Fanta lever. I have to throw the stick really far in order to get my diagonals, and my QCF motions have slowed down due to this. Coming from a JLF, I usually pull down the lever so that down is triggered right before d/f, and then release the lever in a manner where forward is triggered right after d/f. But with this Fanta stick, I feel like I really have to make a full QCF motion in order to get d,d/f,f.
I am not a huge modder, and I would prolly screw up tryna mod the lever itself. However, I am thinking of replacing this with another off the shelf stick. Could some of the experienced folk here please recommend something that doesnt have this issue ? How are Myongshin Fanta and the 309 HelpMe when it comes to this ? Thank you!
I have two 8 button sets and one set has one button not clicking at all with the other with two buttons. I had the same issues with a 207H button after trying a bit to fix it as well as a 203C button. Yeah I think itās just Futaba just being inconsistent.
Some buttons in my set of 8 have more audible and tactile clicks than others while one doesnāt audibly click at all and feels more like a slight bump. It doesnāt bother me since I press buttons so hard and fast to notice either the sound or feel of the click anyway.
Theyāre still very nice buttons though; I quite like them and the mounting nuts are even interchangeable between Sanwa and Seimitsu. Only issue aside from one of them not working is I had to shave a bit of plastic in my HRAP4 Kai to get the 4P button to fit.
Iām stepping in just to comment on my end of things, and to ask some questions.
Originally, FA sold the Samducksa 309-MJ and Helpme with Panasonic Japanese microswitch. Because Panasonic announced that they are no longer manufacturing their line of joystick lever and pushbutton microswitches (this affects Seimitsu and additionally, Samducksaās JMS model, which is the one we sold.) Samducksa immediately switched their line to the Gersung A2. I wasnāt made aware of the change until my supplier mentioned it was coming in our next restock.
I canāt comment on a v2 Helpme lever, because my supplier didnāt mention that such a model existed. As Iām relaying it to him now, I will try to get some official word from Samducksa on whether that is true. Reading Agiezeās statements on the matter, I tend to believe him that the revision is a swap of the microswitch. The battop is a color that the Helpme designer was offered from Samducksa - far as I know there is nothing special about it except for the color. Having released the SDB-201 button in many translucent colors, Iām hoping that they offer more than purple, and actually provide battops across the entire line.
Again, Iām asking my supplier for more details on any variants from the configurations publicly offered from Samducksa and will let you know if there is anything relevant.
My question regards the A2 and A3 microswitch. Iām not going to pretend that I am an aficionado of Korean levers. Customers desire these models, and of them the JMS resonated strongly over Gersung, which is why I chose that model. Carrying all of the Samducksa configurations isnāt economically feasible for me. But recently the A2ās installed in the recent restock has reported some control issues with diagonals. Some here are reporting that the A3 addresses this, and my supplier has already said that he can switch to A3 in the next restock. What Iād like to ask as a novice to Korean levers is - what is the preferred switch, save Panasonic JMS because we canāt get that anymore? Is it the A3? Agieze says it makes no difference. Can I get a consensus of what switch is best from the people that know and play on Korean levers?
Oh I forgot to mention the SDB-201 button issue reported by @BolSadguy. Iām prepared to replace any buttons bought at FA that have this anomaly. I hear itās a variation of the Futaba switch. While that is fine, I understand having two different models is off-putting. I canāt see the switch so I assumed all of the buttons we got were the same switch - didnāt even know there was a variation. So if you have a button like this, send a message to orders@focucattack with a photo and @Jenni and I will look into it.
There is a quite a difference in terms of operation between Panasonic āAM5-1630C69Nā (custom code with wrong digits, correct catalog ref is AM5-1632C6N) and Gersung GSM-V**A3 .
I compared all the relevant specs, I even included Omron V series and the new ABV from Panasonic (expensive) . Perhaps you skipped the posts on the subject.
The switches which I did state were almost the same (all actuation specs the same except for minute operating force differences ) were the OMRON V series hinge lever switches and the Gersung GSM-V hinge lever.
Itās true the posts are buried somewhere in this same 44p thread, theyāre not easily available.
Anyone else here running a brook ufb with ez mod on a madcatz te2+? Accidentally bought the wrong Jansenās customs ez mod and turns out it was for a regular te2 so I canāt use it. I then bough a Gummod ezpz te2 only to realize that u canāt even use a korean lever with it since u have to stack the ufb over the adapter. Been trying to ask arcade shock if they sell the Jasenās ez mod for te2+ separately from the ufb but no answer and that was 2 weeks ago. Just gonna use my etokki for now which kinda sucks cuz Iām getting a golden fanta kit soon and opening the etokki over and over is painful.
Does your taeyoung also have gersung a2 microswitches? Im not sure how different the taeyoung is compared to the myoungshin other than grommets and maybe shaft length, but maybe try a different grip? Im assuming your having this problem from the p1 side. Different grips can allow to hit those qcf motions almost exactly as u just as u said with a K stick, at least for me and the myoungshin fanta i use. Doing slash kicks right out of a wave dash or even doing a wave dash felt like the throw was a little too big until i switched up my grip. The grip im using seems a little akward at first, but it allows me to hit those qcf motions faster than the grip i was using before because there is less wrist rolling.