Korean arcade parts discussion

@wazwuz @ViolentKenV

In the end I went down a similar path. I used the smaller Crown 307MJ body (that I got from FocusAttack by mistake) with the switches that came with (they are more sensitive and have a shorter actuation point). I then threw in the 10mm Golden Fanta shaft and 16.5mm (or is it 16mm?) Golden Fanta actuator I got from @wazwuz , threw a balltop on there and now it works like a charm. There is a lot less throw, as it hits the collar a lot sooner, but the general action feels great.

I apologize for the cruddy picture, but here it is:
i.imgur.com/OcIW0Ow.jpg
I just need to get some slick buttons and plexi from FocusAttack and make a sexy ‘Golden Myoungshin 307MJ’ Frankenstein out of this bad boy.

Edit: If anyone wants more info about this setup just ask, I just don’t feel like opening up the TE again. It’s a pain in the ass to get it to close properly.

Wow, did the Golden Fanta shaft fits perfectly on Crown?, I measure the grommets ring is 0.5mm bigger in crown.

BTW, Golden Fanta third Batch is shipped today. I will update the tracking number by email latter.

It seems to – I didn’t actually open it up to look, but I didn’t have any trouble getting the shaft through.

Is there anything I should look out for doing this? I am kind of new to this and don’t want to damage any parts.

@Mars_ lol was just about to post that too

Good day folks. I’ve been looking into putting a fanta into one of or both my TE2’s. Knowing that they would both need a custom panel and plexi to fit the fanta in, I was wondering if anyone knew of any websites or people that can do custom fanta panels. If so, that would be a really big help. Thank you.

@wazwuz do you have any extra golden fanta sets for sale?

@Maniak_Zak you don’t need custom panels. You just need a very good drill(one powered by an electrical outlet. Battery powered won’t work) and a 35mm Step Bit (also called inhibit). The drill bit is only 10 on amazon and then you can drill trough the metal panel of the te2 and the plexi. I did the mod myself. Remove the plexi and drill each one separately. It’s super easy because they both already have 30mm holes so you just put the drill in the hole and drill clean through.

Try removing the bottom plate by taking off the screws on the top end and adjust accordingly.

307MJ doesn’t exist. Whoever told you that made a mistake.
“MJ” is the new reference code for the “chopped collar” version of the 309, you know that ~6mm high collar .

307 exists only in traditional korean collar (full height) or in collarless version, 307F.
http://samducksa.com/new/eng/product/index_view.php?UidNum=190
http://samducksa.com/new/product/index_view.php?UidNum=359

If you have japanese style mounting plate (what they call “sanwa”) , it’s a 307FJ. If you have the korean type mounting plate the collarless has the ref 307FK.
It’s probable you have a 307FJ if you have a collarless model, and if it’s the full height collar then it’s the 307JMS you have .

today Crown let go of all “F” type collarless designs and goes with the new collarless “M” type (Helpme309M for example) and the half-as-high MJ since people complained a lot about the old “F” collarless design which had the shaft rub hard on the mounting plate.

For the switches, Crown chose codes that are similar : to 307FJ or FK, you have to add -JMS (panasonic switches) or -KMS(Gersung) for the switches.

Why did they call their full height collared 307 model 307JMS although it has a Korean mounting plate? no clue. Shit codes for sure.

woops you’re correct – I meant the 303MJ that I was accidentally sent by FocusAttack. For some reason I thought it was a 307. The full code is: CWL-303MJ-JMS-ST25

Thanks for the info

I’m curious to know when these will be in stock https://twitter.com/infiltration85/status/889859477742075905

An electric drill work and I know because I’ve done it myself on my te2+. I’d advise against using the step drill for the plexi since I don’t think I will do as clean of a just as a forstner bit. You can get an extra set of plexi from focus attack rather than cutting the hole into you original one. That way u can throw in a Japanese stick back in if you ever want to. One other thing is plexi glass from fa won’t sit as flush as the original since the plexi is completely flat.

https://imgur.com/a/00qfd

I’ve taken it out an adjusted at least 5 times on my omni this past weekend and it’s painful lol. Might thrown it into my te2+ for now that way I have easy access to the fujin. Thx man

@zero_requiem @dpadi006 after drilling, did the default mounting plate still take the fanta?

I’m curious to try out Infiltration’s lever as well.

August 5 for 40,000 won. But I assume that’s for sale in Korea. Overseas might take longer with a slightly higher markup.

Yup! Just need to drill the hole to 35mm/ 1 3/8" and you’re good to go. You’re only boring the hole out so everything else on the bracket will be unscathed. I took the metal panel off the te2 before drilling it because i didn’t want the hot metal chips flying inside.

How do I safely disassemble a futaba switch from a sdb-201c button? One of mine are acting up (must be pressed dead centre and all the way down) so Im thinking I might need to clean it

@zero_requiem do you if maybe tek innovations could do plexi to fit a fanta?