Random observational stuff here but I was looking into the bottom end of the Green Game Land lever in a post by @kkolding and looked closer to the metal rings. Since the switches are installed with its own screws, it seems like that ring is less as a stabilizer like what the Airbags are but rather something different. Notice the old model and it’s not screwed into the lever’s body.
When I tried Nin’s and KOFTEKKEN’s levers, they felt sorta snappy and spongy if you can say that. I thought they were just on barely used silicone tension that isn’t really broken in. When I used Gen1us’ lever this Evo, it felt like a normal lever but I initially assumed it was really used by him for years. I then remembered the plastic actuator. After cruising around various parts store, I saw the IL magnetic lever and it made me wonder something.
What if the Green Lever actually uses a magnet system in conjunction with the existing tension grommet? There is the outer ring and that inner ring added. I don’t know if the inner ring might not matter too much but that outer one seems fascinating.
Also another random thought. We might not see someone making a custom bat top like the Green lever or Fujin lever anytime soon but I would love to see Crown sell the SDL-301-DX Infiltration lever top. THAT FEELS SO NICE. If they can offer colors too that would be cool as well.
The “outer rings” as you call them on both green levers work as switch securing plates, they’re just steel washers (aka flat rings) . 2014-17 design is much cleaner than the 2012 version due to the different fastening method. LAtest version although being minimalistic, doesn;t secure as firmly as a seimitsu ls-32 switch plate or it’s newborn little brother the Fujin V2 switch plate , since the ring applies pressure only on a portion of the switch and the switches are left with the stock plastic locating pins of the Myoungshin base to fit the other switch mounting hole.
Magnetic? I highly doubt the Green arcade mod involves any magnetic centering, you’d need either a permanent magnet ring such as seen in Industrias Lorenzo’s magnetic levers and according to other photos of the Green Arcade mods (on this same thread) the “inner ring” is just a flat piece of metal cutout to minimalistic dimensions to save weight (or cost) . It has a chiral pattern, swastika shaped, whose pattern mimicks the switch placement, the angled arms of this plate secure the switches and since they don’t have any holes for securing with screws, are held in place by the pressure from the body+switches assembly.
This (along with the later LS-32 style Fujin switch plate) is more than likely the inspiration for Yo-O to implement a “stiffening plate” in the SDL301DX grommet housing , but this time the steel plate is placed inside the plastic lower wall of the housing during injection.
Green Arcade inner plate (bottom right). Pic courtesy of @kkolding who already summed it up briefly in this post
I wish I was able to try at least Nin’s one this Evo so I don’t have to go into conspiracy level thinking about this. That makes more sense than my crazy thinking but with the ones I tried, Gen1us felt the most normal. I didn’t feel that snappiness like the other models. As I said during my crazy theory, it might have just been heavy use.
Maybe I should have went my tired ass to Tekken Casino and paid Nin a lot of money for one so we could have dissected it further. In a time where there it’s a bit easier to get custom levers, seeing Green still being very exclusive is unusual.
Speaking of the SDL-301, I get what you mean about the metal piece inside. Too bad it’s in a body that’s too big and can only really fit in probably 2 consumer arcade sticks (Panthera and maybe a Dragon). When I tried it, I put it on a TE2 and while it seemingly fit, it was shaving a bit of the internal plastic flooring. I am still wondering if it will ever come out.
I have a friend who is looking to buy a Mayflash V2, will there be enough room to fit a korean joystick? and also what, other than the tension, is the difference between the no collar 309 and the mid collar 309MJ? essentially, if he could fit a Korean joystick, which should he use.
just look on page 17 for some of ghost kobra. he wrote another post that had a video demonstration too. I don’t think anyone has reviewed the kaze as of yet.
So the worst happened to me…I ordered from Makestick a fuji v2, Shipping from DHL, expected delivery on Saturday, July 22requires signature, waited all day nothing…logged in to DHL to track said it was signed, and delivered around 4pm pacific time…no one at the house signed anything, asked neighbors if they received a package…nothing…anyways wanted to know if it could have been that the driver singed off on the package to make quota for that day?
Currently using a lighter grommet on my fujin v2 but might go back to the original. I like the rubber stiff but I was getting really tired since I play a lot of mishimas in tekken 7. Anyone with a fujin 2 get a loud bang when u hit right really hard? No idea what it’s coming from and i don’t get this with my crown 309mj, taeyoung or my myoungshin. Been trying really hard to just use the switches and not touch the gate but I can’t help it sometimes and that loud sound is annoying. It’s very odd that it only happens on right but not at all on left, up or down.
So I just got my SDB-201C’s. I didn’t see much in terms of feedback on them, and my Makestick doesn’t play nice with Sanwa snap-ins, so I figured I’d at least try them. I also ordered some PS-14-KN’s to compare, and I have to say, the Crowns really do show more promise.
Seimitsu buttons feel like longer, stiffer Sanwas whereas the Crowns feel like a slightly longer Kuro with a nice keyboard switch. My only real issue with them so far is that I feel that the provided switches are just ever so slightly too stiff for my tastes. Obviously, this may change with prolonged use, but I’m still curious to see if anyone has tried putting other switches in these buttons yet.
If I can get them to be slightly more sensitive, they’d be an all around win in my book, and probably my favorite button.
Currently at work so can’t provide too much detail.
I have the second Kaze lever and while it’s heavy tensioned, mostly from the shaft, the shaft is too low so the top feels super awkward. It had a Gersung switch on top to avoid accidental up motions while it was Panasonic switches for every other direction. The third version is all of the same Gersung switch models with a slightly taller shaft and a custom dust cover. Unfortunately most if not all people here can’t get it because IST HQ apparently had some flooding in their building and people can’t even buy it even when the Makestick site updated it to V3.
Fujin V2 feels solid yet very hard. Also the switches are closer to the middle. I think of it as a better Myoungshin. The top can’t be removed. I tried. Also it’s challenging to get atm for the same reasons.
From what I gathered by looking underneath is that the plastic mold looks like it’s bending when pushing hard against the metal plate. Looks like it’s going past the plastic area then when it hits the metal plate you get that loud noise.
One way to fix that awkward feel on the kaze lever is to use a clear sanwa bat top instead. When I tried using a jlf shaft on my myoungshin I noticed that with the red top it sat super low but the clear bat top fixed that since it doesn’t screw in as deep on the bottom a the colored ones do. It is actually a little longer than a stock myoungshin.
