I know this will probalbly sound dumb, but why do you install a usb to the stick
Misunderstood
not sure what this question is asking, but I think you’re asking about how some people install usb connectors in the case (for this mod most people are using an rj-45 connector, not usb).
But as far as the USB thing, some people who make custom cases put a usb connector in there instead of a hard wired cord so they can have a detachable cord, I guess cuz it makes the stick cleaner. Similarly, the rj-45 connector for the mod in this thread is used to have one common interface for multiple system cords (ps1/2, xbox 1, GC, etc).
Help!!!
I cannot get windows to recognize my stick in 360 mode…
:sad:
It works fine in Multiconsole Cthulu mode as long as the stick is set to LS, or DP.
In RS mode, the stick is not recognized at all. My Laptop does not even acknowledge that a USB device has been plugged in in RS mode and the stick is not recognized at all even when switched from RS to DP, or LS after it was plugged in RS mode.
The guide button flashes green momentarily when I plug the stick in no matter what mode it is in.
To try to get the stick to be recognized in 360 mode, I have put it in RS mode when plugging it in, then switched to DP (and also to LS) while holding the guide button (and also not holding guide) as well as just holding guide while plugging in with the stick in each mode. I just went through the process of checking all of my connections and solder joints and still no luck.
Any help would be greatly appreciated…
Gut a working USB cable, wire it to your 360 pcb, and test it. If that doesn’t work and you wired everything correctly, your 360 pcb may be fried (though my rough handling and general disregard for the safety of the 360 pcb did not fry it, leading me to believe you just may have a wiring problem).
Do you have any idea of where I should look for the wiring problem? It might save me some time (and a usb cable) if I knew where I should be looking.
Would a picture help?
might want to look at the connection between the guide point on the imp, and the RS point (i’m guessing that’s where you wanted to solder it to, if so holding down the guide button shouldn’t have anything to do with selecting hte mode)
Maybe check the vcc and ground points to the 360 pcb too. Toodles troubleshooting guide (on his official cthulhu thread) explains several steps you can do to check your installation, and gives you an idea how to use a multimeter to troubleshoot in case you don’t already know how.
Hope that helps
Thanks for the help…
I’m not sure what you mean by the RS point… I don’t see anything that is labeled as such.
I also noticed on Bomberman’s initial walkthrough that he points out the GND and VCC on the 360 PCB (in the picture right below the heading ‘soldering points’), but he does not mention making any connections to these points. Also in the diagrams, from what I can tell, there is nothing attached to these two points. They are labeled on that picture with a big arrow that says ‘gnd and vcc’
So I followed Toodles’ troubleshooting guide to the step 3 at the point where he says to check the column E on the Cthulu. Using the instructions on this post, I did not use any of these points, only the V1 position, which is connected to the VCC point on the Imp.
I checked all of the connections and things seem to be working fine. I even checked the 360 PCB VCC to ensure that it is receiving power.
I really don’t know what to do at this point.
Edit:
I just tested it again and now it isn’t even being recognized in MC mode…
ARRRGGGhhhh
what kind of stick do you have SE or TE? I don’t know if it matters, but I’ve only done this on a TE and on that one I know the point you connect to the IMPs ‘guide’ point is labeled, but it can just be hard to see. It might be on the opposite side if the board, I can’t remember now. But you’re saying you don’t know which point I’m talking about, so- just curious, where DID you connect the IMPs guide point on the 360 pcb?
Well, even though I said this stuff before, I’ll say it again, just cuz I remember the first time I was troubleshooting and I was taking the stick apart/putting back together each time I tested… every time you do it, you can introduce new problems, haha. So whenever you do
- make sure the ribbon cables are connected back to the correct spots
- make sure the ribbon cables are oriented correctly
- make sure the turbo area isn’t locked, and stick selection switch is in the right position for the system you’re trying to test on. (it’s actually best to just test on pc, then you shouldn’t have any problems with that)
Also- just so you know, that thing with the green light flashing on for a second and turning off when you first plug it in (regardless of what mode you’re in) isn’t a symptom of any problem. That happens when the stick is working correctly too.
Thanks for taking the time to help. I attached the Imp guide to the place designated on Bombermans MC Cthulu to SE stick on the first page of this thread.
Sorry, I don’t have a way of posting a pic since I am not a member of any file hosting service.
I unsoldered the usb port on the assembled MC Cthulu thinking that it might have been shorting out the 1D+ and 1D- but it did not have any affect. I think that in doing so I fried the C2 capacitor since that is as far as I can make it on Toodles troubleshooting page. I test the #14 PIC and the reading goes from between 3-4 Volts, then drops to zero, then goes back up again. I don’t think that this is normal. Maybe there is a short or something.
I am not sure where I can find something like that, or what to do at this point. Lol, I just want to play some street fighter. First my xbox red rings, so I buy it for ps3 and get the stuff to mod my stick and now this happens.
I guess it isn’t my lucky day. I should have just left the stick alone when it was working in MC mode.
I went through and unmounted everything, and also rewired everything to ensure that I had everything properly connected.
Still no luck…
I followed Toodles’ troubleshooting steps as you advised and when I get to…
'Step 2B: Test the voltage on pin #14. Voltage present here should be right around 3.3v. Consider it a success if the voltage is more than 3 and less than 4. Next, check the resistance between pin #14 and any GND screw terminal. The resistance should increase until it is out of the range and shows infinite resistance. If it shows a low resistance and doesn’t go to infinity, then the C2 capacitor got fried during soldering and needs replaced. Lastly, swap the chip for another if possible. ’
I cannot go any further, since the voltage is intermittent. It actually goes up to the range that it should be, then drops down to zero, then goes back up and stays where it should be for a few seconds, then drops down to zero again. It continues like this until I quit testing.
The resistance is also not going to infinity, it actually stays a little low, somewhere between 20-50 ohms (I think).
It says to swap the chip for another if possible. Does that mean that I need a new MC Cthulu, or that I need another C2 capacitor? I am going to check my 360 PCB to ensure that it is still receiving power and functional in a while and I will post when I have found the results.
What should be my next course of action?
By the way, I will try to post some pics soon… I haven’t signed up yet for tinypic or imageshack
I am actually considering contacting Toodles himself, but I don’t want to bother the guy.
So how does the Cthulhu behave when plugged into a USB port directly?
Thanks for the assistance Toodles.
I just unsoldered the 1D+ and 1D- from the IMP to the MC Cthulu and wired a USB cable onto the Cthulu directly.
I ran through the troubleshooting again and I got the same results, except now I get no Voltage from PIC 14 (instead of being really intermittent). I also checked the resistance and again it is really low.
My next move is to check the 360 PCB. Now that I look at it, can I make the connections on the underside of the PCB since I flipped it over to mount it? Should I unmount it, so that I can attach it to the top of the PCB, where they originally were?
Still no luck… :sad:
Any advice is greatly appreciated.
I’m trying to work all this out in my head.
With a cable plugged into the RJ-45 jack, you bypass the Imp (and the USB cable) entirely, right? So it doesn’t matter what setting (RS/DP/LS) the SE is set on?
Apologies if this has been asked before; should be an easy answer, at least. 
Quick question about doing this mod again.
I’m about to mod someone’s TE with a MC Cthulhu and an Imp, so that they can eventually run the USB to the RJ-45 and run everything out of the RJ-45. I’ve only done mine with a DPDT, so there is no problems with this, but is there a certain board I should make the primary board (the one that you don’t have to hold the guide button to make work) so that the other systems being used work?
I could’ve swore I saw in this thread that you had to make the Cthulhu primary, or else the only system that would work besides PS3 would be Gamecube. However, I couldn’t find it, and just want to make sure before I wire his board up.
Also, I’ve never even touched a TE, let alone one to mod–what kind of screws are holding on the top plate, and will I need anything besides a normal phillips screwdriver to take it off?
Quite a few questions. I can answer the last one o_o
You need an Allen key to take off the top. Not sure of the actual size, though.
Short answer:
For a TE mod where the RS switch is used to select the console, have the cthulhu as the secondary and the 360 as the primary.
For a mod where a button is used to select the console (instead of a slid switch), then you want the cthulhu as the primary and the 360 as the secondary.