I’ve just finished installing the Cthulu and Imp board to my TE stick, but I have a few concerns. After reading for a bit, if I followed Bomberman’s picture guide, then by leaving the switch at RS will make it a 360 stick and leaving it at LS will make it a PS3. If so, then when it’s a 360 stick I have to switch it back to DP in order to use the joystick? That and is the guide button suppose to work? Mine isn’t at the moment =/
Thank you for the help.
mm, sorry maybe my question wasn’t clear. I haven’t had any problems soldering to the pcb in the past (sometimes I tin, sometimes I don’t, I just mentioned that it might be a problem in the circumstances I described). The main focus of my question was people choosing not to /strip/ the ends of the wire before soldering- just leaving the insulation on, and then burning it off with the soldering iron as they are soldering.
I’ve always done it by stripping the ends of the wires first which of course adds time to the project. I was wondering if there were otehrs who do it without stripping the wire first and how that went for them.
Where the stick selector switch is only matters before it’s turned on. For example, I wired my TE to be PS3 primary and 360 secondary. Whenever I want it to use the Cthulu, I have the switch to either LS or DP before I plug it in. If I want to use it on a 360, I’ll switch it to RS before plugging it in, then switch it to DP after so I can actually use the joystick.
Now, never having used the guide button on a 360 before, I’m not sure if it’s supposed to work - however, whenever I have it plugged in on my PC as 360, nothing lights up when I press the guide button. However, it registers on the Cthulu and on my PS3 (it brings up the PS3 XMB).
If you find anything out about the guide button on 360, please let me know. It doesn’t seem essential for tournament play, but I’m not sure if it would be essential for a 360 owner (I only own a PS3).
manman, I don’t have a wire cutter that can strip 30 gauge wire, so I just used my soldering iron to burn off the insulation. I used this method throughout the whole project. After practice, it seems a lot faster and easier than stripping singular wires - I imagine it’d be faster to use a wire stripper for multiple wires at a time, though.
Oh, alright. That’s a relief, I did everything correctly. As for the guide button, I forgot to unlock it with the switch below the LS, DP, RS switch.
Thanks a lot shiryu22.
Thanks for the tips shiryu. Good to know, I thought it might be messy or screw up the soldering or something.
aznboi, sounds like you got it working, but just to confirm- yeah the guide buttons should work.
A while back there was a short back and forth about the difference between how bomberman has the ps3 only and MC cthulhu diagrams wired differently with respect to which mode is D1 and D2. Toodles said that it’s better to do it the way “ps3 only” has it, even for the MC (have RS be ps3 mode in both). The reasoning was that the cthulhu doesn’t care about the stick selection switch (it can be in any position and still work), whereas the 360 pcb needs to be in something other than RS for the directional stuff to work (so that’s why you have to switch it back to DP from RS when using “RS” as 360 mode.
If you do it the opposite way (RS for ps3-mode, others for 360), then you can switch it to whichever mode it is and just leave it there.
I just managed to install this MC Cthulhu 1.3 board, and soldered a PS1 cable into it. The strange thing is, when you plug it into a PS2, it intermittently picks up the controller. It eventually works when you plug it in and out several times (when it works, there’s like a 2-3 second lag before the controller registers), but this has proven embarrassing in a recent tournament.
Any ideas? When the controller registers, everything works sweetly.
Update the firmware. The PS2 detection works a lot quicker on the newer versions.
guys any ideas on why my SE shows up as "Street Fighter IV Fight Stick’’?
nothing mentioned earlier seems to work, tomorrow im gonna try and use a separate usb cable on the cthulu and thats my last option…
also should i try and install the latest XBCD drivers?
Should it not come up as “Street Fighter IV Fight SticK” ? What’d it come up as before you started modding? Definitely try a seperate USB cable before you attempt to use both PCBs in your SE again. No point in continuing if your Cthulu doesn’t work, right?
first time i plugged it in with only the SE pcb inside i think it showed up as a ‘‘madcatz SF IV stick’’
then when i wired the cthulu and the imp it only showed as the PS3/PC cthulu and now after trying whats suggested here and rewiring everything back i get this…
sorry for the double post
here i am again this time we took 2 separate usb cables one for the cthulu and one for the SE
both work pretty fine when connected all directions and buttons work for the SE pcb and the same goes for the cthulu…
so it leaves me with 2 choices, either there is some problem with my wiring on the IMP or the damn thing IMP is busted…
on the back side of the imp there’s 2 jumpers which i havent soldered together, should i connect them or leave them as they are?
I’ve got an idea. Take a picture of both the front and back of your imp. My friend was testing my imp with a multimeter for like an hour and it turned out I put in one of the chips the wrong way o_o. It’s good that your SE PCB and Cthulu work - the imp seems pretty hardy, so I think it may be your wiring.
Anyways, take those pictures and post them here. I’m not really clear on what you mean when you say you haven’t soldered those jumpers together, so post those pictures so we can get a good idea of what your imp actually looks like. We can probably troubleshoot a lot better from there.
great tutorial
bad news,
I was doing the imp/cthulu mod on a 360 TE stick, and i ended up somehow messing up the main 360 PCB,
the cthulu and im are fine and i replaced the stick for the person i was modding it with but now im left with this stick here,
my question is can i remove the pcb (360) and wire up cthulu and imp and use it as a ps3 stick??
or is there a way to possibly know if the 360 pcb can be saved (none of the capacaters or anything were ruined, i just was messing with my soldering cuz the RT didnt register and i unplugged it, did a little desoldering and cleaning up then plugged it back in and it never registered anything)
This’ll be long, but read it all.
It’s quite possible that the connections on the guide/turbo area of the stick got dislodged. I was cleaning up some of my work on my TE, and after I finished, I could not get the 360 pcb to register at all. I checked a lot of my connections and redid them to no avail. Eventually, I checked the guide/turbo area and ONE OF THE CONNECTIONS WAS LOOSE o_o. After reconnecting it, it still didn’t show up - even the Cthulu wasn’t showing up! Initally, I thought I shorted the imp/360/Cthulu because I was soldering the D+/D-/Ground points with the USB cable plugged in. Turned out that a few of my solder points broke because I didn’t solder them very well. I fixed them, and voila… everything worked. But the initial problem was the loose connections on the turbo/guide area.
You can still use it as a PS3 stick, even if you leave the 360 pcb in. It’ll just always be recognized as PS3 - even if you plug it in while leaving it on RS.
A simple way to check if the 360 pcb is even dead is to wire up a USB cable to it. Just get a sacrificial USB cable, strip it, and connect the corresponding points the the points on the 360 pcb (red = 5v, black = ground, green = D-, white = D+. Plug it in a PC and then check. I don’t think you destroyed it, though - I think these pcbs are pretty durable. If it doesn’t work and you’re absolutely sure your cable is working and your solder work is ok, you may have damaged your pcb. After this, you’d want to check with a multimeter, but that’s beyond my help o_o. If it IS working and all your connections are fine with the imp, you might have to get a new imp - though, like I said, I don’t think that’ll be the case, as it seems these boards are pretty durable.
On a related note, does anyone know if soldering/desoldering any of the USB points while the stick is plugged in will short any of the PCBs? I thought I shorted it when I plugged the stick in at one point in 360 mode and the lights briefly flashed, but it turned out that the ground cable got disconnected while it was still plugged in. Thanks in advance.
shiryu22 here’s a pic of my wiring on the IMP, i have everything correctly soldered : http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c292/bafiaris13/impwiring.jpg
today we wired it all back on the IMP and i noticed that the guide button wouldnt work as a switch when pressed but instead the LP-DP-RS of the SE stick functioned as the Guide button should…
so basically when its in DP mode its recognized as the 360 stick and when i switch it to RS it shows up cthulu PS3, guide buttons doesnt do anything…
Now since i dont have any more patience to try out anything else i will leave it that way…
thanks for the tips shiryu22 i really appreciate your help 
Hey, great. It probably was just a soldering problem (loose connection, etc). Bomberman’s guide is made as such where if you move the slider to RS, it’ll choose the secondary PCB. The guide button still works as it should though, right? As in, it’ll bring you to the XBox Dashboard/ PS3 Home menu?
Really glad everything worked out.
yes when switched to RS it will show up as Cthulu PS3 but if i unplug it and plug back holding the guide button it still shows as Cthulu…
Guide button doesnt do anything, it all switches through the RS-DP switch
RS= cthulu ps3
DP= 360 stick
weird stuff
??
Sounds exactly like how it should be.
^
shouldn’t it change consoles on whether the guide button is pressed or not?
