If we drew a line from all 13 buttons and all 4 directions in addition to everything else, would you be able to gather any useful information from the diagram?
So I take it that it’s just so It’s clearer to view.
I just order my parts bomberman, gonna have my friend who fixes consoles look at it first, but if he can’t figure it out, I’m gonna pay you to wire it.
I just finished my wii fighting stick mod with sanwa stick and buttons, I got pretty good at soldering but I am still lost with this guide lol.
that diagram still uses the guide button point as the data line switching method though doesnt it? I was under the impression that the “settled on” diagrams were the obes linked to in the tutorial which use the stick selection switch.
Yeah, my diagram’s way cooler. Switching PCBs with the Guide button is old hat. Just make sure the power line from the Imp to the Cthulhu is in the right place. ~ ~
Thanks for all the info posted here guys, this is my dual mod.
Alex, do you mind resizing those images or just linking to them? 'Cause they’re stretching the page way too wide.
Congrats on the successful mod!
Anything else to try? I’d really rather not have to go get a new PCB, but I’m out of ideas and if you guys are too, then I might have to.
Only thing left is to take the cthulhu and Imp out of the equation. Grab a cheap USB cable you dont mind destroying, pull out the four USB wires going to the TE board, and solder in the wires from the sacrifice USB cable in their place. Make a connection between the USB5V and the VCC on the Cthulhu, and make sure ground is connected. If the board works when directly connected, then you know the board isn’t dead (and rewiring it back it will likely fix it, else it could be an Imp problem) or if it doesnt work direct, then you need a new 360 pcb
Yeah, no problem.
Dual mod
Hey SRK,
So ive done a single PS3 Cthulhu in a stick, a sixaxis in a stick, and a 360 pcb in a stick now. Next step Dual mod!
sorry for the crappy diagram but would this work?
http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/1489/dualmod.th.jpg
Basically can the button wires from the 360 pcb go to the A-H and 1-9 points on the cthulhu?
Or should all the wires from the button points on the cthulhu and the 360 pcb> barrier strip> buttons
Thanks for the help everyone… my soldering, wood painting, and stick modding is all due to the awesome SRK peeps. :lovin:
I’ve been thinking this for a while but after seeing the pic of the inside of the comic-con stick from Alex_c, it prompted me to actually say it, haha.
I really think all TE’s should have been white from the beginning. For one thing, it just looks so damn clean, for another- you can paint white to another color with fewer coats of paint than with a black base.
I really think the all white looks more quality than the white sides + black base, but maybe that’s cuz I haven’t seen one in person yet. Got a femme fatale stick on the way so I’ll be able to see soon 
I don’t care about the art etc, I just wanted an all white stick for a future mod and didn’t want to do the extra work of painting/paying blown up prices for a resold comic-con stick…
OK, I better say something on topic now…
Not sure if I fully understand your question or not, are you just asking if you can substitute the a-h, 1-9 points for their respective points around the edges of the cthulhu?
If so, then yes, that’s what I did. Using the documentation that came with the cthulhu, I just used those points instead. I just thought it was cleaner cuz everything was in one place (plus I saw that someone else had done it that way). Worked totally fine for me.
hmm
Actually i was asking the opposite, like if it had to be done the way you did it or if i could put the 360pcb into the a-h and 1-9 spots on the cthulhu. Wasn’t sure if adding the imp would effect that in some way. Also i wouldnt be using a SE or TE as a base it would be a fightpad PCB with the Imp and Cthulhu.
So in a round a bout way you answered my question thanks 
wait, I think we are saying the same thing. I see how it came out backwards (unless i’m misunderstanding you again, haha). I DID use a-h, 1-9 (and I am using an imp as well), instead of using the points around the edges. If I’m confusing something again, I should proably give up, haha. But yeah- both the a-h/1-9 and the labeled points around the edges will work for the same purpose.
This guide was awesome. Kudos to toodles for making such awesome boards, and to Bomberman for the awesome guide. I successfully dualmodded my 360 TE with no real prior soldering experience.
One suggestion, though - it’d be good to update the PS3 only Cthulu diagram. I connected it wrong the first time and had to redo it. Not a big deal, but it’d be less confusing to have conflicting info.
EDIT - I’ve also got a quick question if anyone knows the answer to this. What exactly is changed on the 360 TE PCB that allows it to recognize that changing the stick selector (LS DP RS) will select a different PCB versus selecting a different stick? Ie, at what point during the TE PCB soldering process is this step done? I only recall soldering all the relevant data points to the imp (not including soldering the inputs to the Cthulu board).
here is how we have wired the Cthulu-Imp-SE PCB
from SE’s pcb to the imp
D- = 1D-
D+ =1D+
Gnd of SE = Gnd of cthulu
Guide of SE pcb = Guide of the Imp
from the cthulu:
Gnd of cthulu = Gnd of the Imp
Vcc of cthulu = Vcc of the Imp
cthulu’s D- = 2D-
cthulu’s D+ = 2D+
i have double checked and this seems correct but i cant get my PC to recognize it as a 360 madcatz
we also reverted the D- and D+ so that we have the cthulu set as the starting pcb but that didnt work either…
any ideas what could the problem be?
edit:
now we ve got another problem after trying to rewire everything it now shows up on windows as ‘‘Arcade Stick (Street Fighter IV Fight Stick)’’ in both modes (with the guide button pressed and not pressed) and the directions wont show up working but all the buttons work except of the Guide button.
im pretty much clueless at this point please help x\
Just tried the madcatz PCB with nothing other than a USB cable to it, and got the same results. I think madcatz is willing to send me another board however, so hopefully it will go right this time. I am still baffled as to how I could have killed it though. Thanks to Toodles and the others who have helped me troubleshoot, hopefully I won’t need to come post here again 
bafiaris13, you may have wired your setup wrong. Did you get a PS3 only Cthulu? If so, you should connect the Cthulu’s “red - v” point to the VCC point on the imp. I couldn’t get my Cthulu to show up on the PC either because I connected the VCC point on the imp to the VCC point on the Cthulu. My source is from the first post:
If that still doesn’t work, I’d test your Cthulu by itself by wiring your USB cable directly to the Cthulu.
Chaos Llama, my friend had his SE stick act strangely multiple times and screwed him over during a tournament in a match vs Ricky Ortiz o_o. Did you get a firstgen SE? I heard they’re notorious for being of poor build quality.
hey shiryu22
yes i ve got a ps3 only cthulu, at first it worked just fine and my pc recognised it as a ps3/pc cthulu but not as the madcatz arcade stick so we rewired it and changed the D+ and D- as written in the first post and then the weird stuff started happening
at first i connected it to a friends pc and it would show up as Virtua Stick High Grade lol how’s that possible?
we then changed it back to normal and now it sees it as i posted on my previous post "Street Fighter IV Fight Stick’’ any idea whats that?
and also i dont know what gen is the SE i have its not mine actually im helping out a friend but this has taken very long xD
i will wire the red -v point as you said and let you know if it worked or not…
thanks
I think i read from at least one other person that when they did the mod they didn’t strip the ends of the wire before soldering and just let the heat from the soldering iron burn the insulation off. Has anyone else ever done this? It seems like it would make things go quicker, but idk if it would be messier or make things harder (like then it seems like it would be harder to tin the wires?)…
Just wondering about other peoples experiences doing this
It’s not necessary to tin wires, it does however make a solder easier. If you have trouble picking up points on the PCB without tinning, then I suggest adding a little extra solder to the point on the PCB.
If I’m using solid wire I rarely tin unless I’m soldering to a flat surface (typically I tin for padhacks). When using stranded it depends on how tight the point is to the next point and my mood.