Installing an MC Cthulhu and Imp in an Xbox 360 SF4 SE stick

1)Let’s say you cut off the USB cord to your stick and instead use a RJ45 connection with with USB setup. Would that mess up anything with the current wiring? The IMP should still detect 360 or PS3, right?
Or would I have to re-wire the USB from the IMP to the USB on the Cthulhu?

If I did connected this the other way (360 as Primary; Cthulhu as Secondary), does this mean if I wanted to play Gamecube/PS1-2, I would need to hold down the Guide button?

  1. http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h201/eastx/arcade%20sticks/mccthulhuandimptotestickdiagram.jpg
    The Guide from the 360 PCB goes into the Home on the Cthulhu. But the “system selection” Guide from the IMP goes into some unknown on the 360 PCB. What is that? What if I just connect [Imp Guide] <-> [Cthulhu HOME Button on the side] and [360 PCB Guide] <-> [Cthulhu “9” point which represents Home/Guide]?

  2. Just clarifying. You connect 360 PCB’s VCC to Cthulhu’s VCC. Then you connect IMP’s VCC to square 2-V. And you use the first row to connect to a RJ45 Jack, correct? What about the GABCDEF on the 2nd Row?

  3. And it’s safe for me to connect any GND points from any board together right?

Thanks for the help =O

You’re right. Voltage is ~0 on Home and resistances is very low. Now if I could only find the issue. :frowning:

Update (9/25): This doesn’t have anything to do with the imp or cthulhu. Took everything out and went back to to just the the 360 PCB and it still doesn’t work. Now I just need to figure out where and what could be wrong.

please helpme
dual mod
madcatz + cthulhu (not Imp)
[media=youtube]6lMLj-iwHkk[/media]

press 5 switch (5 button or diagonal + 3 button) = press al button (8 in my stick)

Alright, after trying to figure everything out. This is what I came up with.
I got these pictures from Toodles’ welcome docs and slagcoin’s website.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a246/synix09/Cthulhu360PCBImpRJ45.jpg

But I still have a few questions.

  1. The Cthulhu AND the Imp both have a Start+Select = Guide function. If I want to use just the Imp’s (by soldering Start and Select together), do I have to do anything to the Cthulhu? Like solder the DISABLE_HOME or solder HOME to GND or anything?

  2. It’s not labeled on the diagram but am I safe to say that the 3 metal points under 5V on the 360 PCB is [D-] [D+] [GND] ? And I would connect the Data line to [2 D-] and [2 D+] on the Imp?

  3. I leave the Red-V and Blk-G on the bottom of the Cthulhu alone right?

  4. Is my planning okay?

  1. You just activate the function on the Imp, not the Cthulhu
  2. They’re color coded, so you’ll be able to tell
  3. You could use them to provide power and ground to the Imp, but you’ll probably find it easier to use the Imp’s larger VCC and GND points. Or Row 2-V for power as you have it marked (provided you’re using an MC Cthulhu.)
  4. I guess! But it’s off-topic because this thread is about SF4 sticks, not random 360 PCBs. :stuck_out_tongue:

Here it is: how to install a Neutrik RJ-45 jack inside of a Madcatz Tournament Edition Stick’s USB cable compartment. No more throwing away the Back button!

Parts required:
-Neutrik RJ-45 jack (NE8FDP-B is recommended)
-Dremel
-Dremel accessories: Grinding bit, 7/64 drill bit, Collet for drill bit

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h201/eastx/madcatz%20sf4%20guide/dremeldrillbitscollet.jpg

-Strength of heart
-Drill
-24 mm Hole saw drill bit

Beginning

Disassemble the Neutrik jack into these 3 pieces. The “Push” tab pops right out if you pull on it.

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h201/eastx/madcatz%20sf4%20guide/disassembledneutrikjack.jpg

Okay, first take off the top metal plate of the TE stick, disconnecting all buttons and the stick. Remove the bottom metal plate as well.

Now we’re going to Dremel away some plastic right behind the cable compartment.

Top view:

http://i65.photobucket.com/albums/h201/eastx/madcatz%20sf4%20guide/teplasticremovedtop.jpg

Bottom view:

How do you know exactly where to remove the plastic? The jack needs to sit right against the left-most column of plastic, shown here. The jack is actually flipped from how it will be installed. This is just to help us make sure we’ve removed the right amount of plastic. You can see how the jack will actually be installed here or at the end of this post.

Once you’re absolutely sure your jack will fit against that plastic column, flip the jack over, hold it in place, and see if you can fit the top of the TE stick back on. If you can, you’re ready for the next step.

Now prepare to drill the hole for the jack. The cable compartment is 32 mm tall, so hold your jack in the position that it will be mounted, mark the center of the jack’s large hole, and measure 16 mm down. Mark that spot and use the Dremel grinding bit to make a hole there. The hole needs to fit the 24 mm hole saw’s guide bit.

Open the TE cable compartment. Carefully use the hole saw bit to make the main hole for the Neutrik jack. Verify again that the Neutrik jack will fit in the hole. Remove the jack.

Place the Neutrik jack’s faceplate inside the cable compartment, with the top of the jack facing right. Mark the 2 screw holes with a pencil. Remember to tell your parents that you love them. Now remove the faceplate and use the Dremel’s 7/64 drill bit to drill out the screw holes. You may be able to make the screw holes with a regular drill instead of a Dremel, but mine wouldn’t fit in that far.

Finally, put the jack inside the stick and attach the faceplate to it from inside the cable compartment. Carefully screw the 2 parts together (it’s a pain). Put the “Push” tab back in. Your jack is installed!

Finished!

Internal view:

Black jack

Silver jack

Appreciate you taking the time to make these great tutorials for people. I gotta say though- you don’t actually have to lose a button to put the neutrik port in the back- I put mine in the back button (on your advice I think), and was able to drill a new hole for the button on the other side. I did have to chip away a little bit of the plastic on the inside of the white side piece, but it took about 30 sec to do.

Personally I like that way better cuz I heard some people say that if you use those neutrik connector pieces you can’t close the cord compartment while playing. Maybe a little cleaner doing it inside the cord compartment, but I also like the fact that you can see the jack from the outside, I think it looks cool, haha. Kinda sucks that the labels get messed up though, I might just rub those off…

Oh yeah, that was my other idea. Your installation looks great too. I had a really cool, patient customer who wanted his stick to retain its stock appearance, so installing the jack inside the cable compartment is best for that situation.

i don’t see manman pic?

seems like something was up with the imageshack link… I used a different site, and it’s fixed for now

Thanks for the quick response =)

I still got more questions but I’ll take it to the other thread! Sorry about that.

Just finished installing PS3 Cthulhu and Imp inside of my TE, everything went off without much problem! Hardest part was shoving stranded wire into the small holes on the imp board, honestly lolololololol. Assembling the Cthulhu itself was a cinch, as was soldering all the wiring to the TE PCB (I thought I’d mess this up). The only problem I had was that my stick’s usb wasn’t recognized, problem was a short between a couple wires in the USB Cable <-> Imp Board connection which was fixed with some desolder ribbon.

Thanks for the diagram, wasn’t 100% sure which one was the USB 5V mentioned in Bomberman’s tutorial, now it’s pretty obvious.

Problem. I have everything hooked as according to Bombermans guide, but when I lightly pound on the bottom portion of the stick where the PCB is located, the controller shuts off and restarts. Any possible reason why it may be doing it? It does it on BOTH systems. I wired/soldered the backside of the board (according to the guide), turned it back around and screwed it back in. Could the voltage be shorting out in some kind of way?

Your soldering is loose… Tug on all the wires and see what bumps into what.

Awesome, showing how to put the jack inside the cord compartment, B-man!

I removed the stock usb cable from mine and put the RJ-45 jack directly on the hole for that cable. Then another Neutrik USB jack on the left side of the joystick area cutting out two of the three posts under the home/turbo pcb.

The plastic is so soft, you can cut the 24mm holes with the hole saw by hand in about 5 minutes.

Like manman said, if you use the Neutrik rj45 connectors it will stick out from the cord compartment - which was why I also put the usb jack inside and got a down angle USB cable since the stick is primarily going to be used only on my PS3 it’ll still close with the usb cord at least!

God dammit, every time I do a dual mod to a new stick… I always get a new problem :confused:

Anyway, this time around, I’ve double checked ALL my wiring/soldering, and the PC will only recognize the Fightstick TE, never the Cthulhu portion when switching to RS mode. Why would it be doing this? Could it be because of the cthulu board itself? The Imp board has to be working, otherwise the TE pcb wouldn’t be powered and recognized by the PC. So I am defaulting to the cthulhu as the prob.

Currently in the process of trouble shooting the Cthulhu.

EDIT: okay, everything passes the test according to Toodles Cthulhu trouble shooting guide. Strange. There is power running to the Cthulhu, but when I plug it in with the RS setting, the PC does not recognize it as that device, but as a Fightstick TE. This is a PS3 only cthulhu btw, and I will get pics of my wiring set up soon.

First question, do you have a multimeter?

If not, go buy a cheap one that can check for continuity, it’ll be the best tool a modder can get :slight_smile: :slight_smile: (I simply cannot recommend enough learning how to use a multimeter just to check for continuity)

If you don’t know how to use a multimeter to check for continuity, here’s a great tutorial that i used (given from toodles) and as a result, now, I can’t go without my multimeter when doing any form of modding.

Here’s my basic trouble shooting guide, when one board fails to load or no boards load (basically go down the imp’s 7 points you solder to):

[LIST]
[] Ensure the three boards are grounded. Do this by, having one probe on the ground point of the imp and use the other probe and touch the ground of the cthuhlu, then a ground on the madcatz, if you get a successful beep, then proceed to the next step if not, resolder your grounds.
[
] Ensure the three boards are powered. Do this by, having one probe on the vcc point of the imp and use the other probe and touch the vcc of the cthuhlu, then the +5v on the madcatz, if you get a successful beep, then proceed to the next step if not, resolder your power points.
[/LIST]

Most of the time, that’s all thats necessary, however there’ll be your odd occasion when you get the “unrecognised usb device” chances are you’ve switched around your data points, placing the - in the + or vice versa. If that’s the case do the following:

[LIST]
[]Ensure the #2 + wire goes to the + wire on the second PCB that you want “activated”. Do this by, having one probe on the #2 + point of the imp and use the other probe and touch the + point of the second PCB you want activated, if you get a successful beep, then proceed to the next step if not, resolder your points.
[
]Ensure the #2 - wire goes to the - wire on the second PCB that you want “activated”. Do this by, having one probe on the #2 - point of the imp and use the other probe and touch the - point of the second PCB you want activated, if you get a successful beep, then proceed to the next step if not, resolder your points.
[]Ensure the #1 + wire goes to the + wire on the first PCB that you want “activated”. Do this by, having one probe on the #1 + point of the imp and use the other probe and touch the + point of the first PCB you want activated, if you get a successful beep, then proceed to the next step if not, resolder your points.
[
]Ensure the #1 - wire goes to the - wire on the first PCB that you want “activated”. Do this by, having one probe on the #1 - point of the imp and use the other probe and touch the - point of the first PCB you want activated, if you get a successful beep, then proceed to the next step if not, resolder your points.
[/LIST]

If those are all okay, and in you’re case the cthuhlu still won’t activate, then you will need to look at the way you’ve wired up the “guide” point on the imp

[LIST]
[*]Ensure the guide wire goes the point where its going to “switch” the pcbs (ie. bomberman has two versions of doing this, the original version was through the guide button, the new version is through the RS swtich). If you do the guide button way, make sure there’s continutity between the imp guide and the madcatz guide. Do this by, having one probe on the guide point of the imp and use the other probe and touch the guide of the Madcatz pcb, if you get a successful beep then you should have proper continuity, if not, resolder your guide point. If you’re doing it with the RS method, do the same thing as above, but make sure you’re soldering to the correct point.
[/LIST]

If all the above steps have been taken and none of your boards are loading, then check the USB connection on the IMP itself.

The above steps is the steps i’ve taken to troubleshoot ALL of my mods, and never have i needed to go beyond that, i’ve been able to see where i’ve gone wrong and points that “look” properly connected doesn’t necessarily mean there’s continuity through them.

What I highly recommend is checking for continuity between ALL boards and ALL solder points BEFORE installing the USB cable on the IMP. This way you know that all boards are connected properly and SHOULD work once you connect the USB cable.

That being said, if it still doesn’t work, then it’s beyond my scope and one of the more electric guru’s might be able to help you out.

I hope this little trouble shooting guide can help other people that has problems with this mod, I can safely say that I’m now approaching my 12th dual mod and I’ve learned a few things a long the way :slight_smile:

Thanks for that. I will go through that.

Would different gauged wires have to do with anything?

For the majority of it, I used .26ga wire, however I ran out near the end of my modding, so I ended up using .30ga wire for the last two spots, specifically the +D1/-D1 spots that are wired into the wht/grn into the cthulhu.

nah different gauged wire wouldn’t be a problem, i only personally work with 30 awg cos its sooo much easier to work with smaller wires then thicker wires, but it won’t matter if you use different gauged wires.

okay guys, I have an XBOX 360 TE stick and I’m planning on modding it with the Cthulhu board and imp board to work on my PS3. I also have a PS3 SE stick that I really don’t use and I was wondering if there’s any parts ( button wires, PCB, dock, or wire that connects to console) that I can use for the Dual mod? It will help alot since I dont have much money. It could help lower the cost of the things I need to by like solder iron, wores to connect to the IMP board, and such