Installing an MC Cthulhu and Imp in an Xbox 360 SF4 SE stick

Tech Talk
641

There are picture diagrams for each of the 4 scenarios linked from the first page. You have ps3 only cthulhu and a TE? Then it should be:

PS3-only Cthulhu to TE Stick
Please note that with PS3-only Cthulhu mods, the diagrams show the power wire connecting the Cthulhu and Imp as coming from the 3rd row V point. You should actually connect the wire to the Cthulhu’s USB 5V point, not row 3-V.

That note at the end means you should connect the point on the Imp that says “vcc”, to the point on the cthulhu that is the usb 5v point (the one that says “red-V” right next to the d+/d- points, instead of connecting it to the point it shows in the picture (the point labled V, third row down).

642

The way I do it is I just cut a long piece of wire and strip it at one end. Then solder it to one point and then route it to the other point I want to connect. At the other point I cut the excess wire off to make it look neat/tidy. But I don’t strip it. The 30 AWG from radioshack is Kynar and if you hold the tip of the soldering iron to it, it melts(self strips) the kynar coat leaving a nice stripped wire.

643

Tnx for clearing that up, I completely ignored that those links where there despite having them in my favorites :sweat:

644

I apologize for asking here, but is there a guide on modding a Hori EX2 stick with a Cthulhu? When I searched it all I found is how to swap the parts out. The points on the PCB aren’t labeled so its making it difficult. I’m including a pic.

Pic of PCB

645

EX2/DOA4 pcb isn’t common ground, so no, you can’t.

646

To you, sir, I award 100 Internets on this, the 24th day of July 2009

647

In a rut again :confused:

So, I tested out my MC Cthulu (v1.1 according to the bottom of the chip) before any soldering work and it worked fine hooking it directly from the USB jack into the computer. I undid and redid all the soldering using 30ga wire, and I’m again stuck at the same exact problem!

The computer recognizes the 360 TE fightstick when it’s switched to RS mode, but the Cthulu comes up as an unrecognizable device! I tried hooking up the USB cable while it was all wired up and still no results, the MC Cthulu is still unrecognized.

I will get pictures up tonight (trust me… its ALOT cleaner than my last one, using the 22ga wire) since I am at work. Anyone have any ideas?

When I hook up the TE to the computer while in DP mode, the guide button quickly lights up for half a second, then does nothing. That’s probably the only response I get when I try to use the MC Cthulu side of things.

Weird, I tried hooking up the TE again on the DP mode… and instead of it just lighting up for half a second, the guide stayed on and the top row, 3rd turbo light stayed on. Still unrecognized by the PC though. Tried to recreate the problem, can’t seem to do it again.

648

Everyone’s wiring and soldering work looks so nice. :slight_smile: I was wondering if there was anyone in the Bay Area, specifically the San Francisco area that would be willing to Dual mod my TE fightstick from 360 to Ps3. I finally got it in the mail after a long wait, and I would prefer to deal locally because I don’t have much money for shipping charges. If anyone is willing, or knows someone that’s willing, could you either PM me or e-mail me at orangekid76@gmail.com . :rofl:
I searched SRK for hours, but haven’t found any local bay area modders yet. Sorry If i missed you in the search. Also, if this is the wrong place to put this post, I’ll delete or move it. =)

649

I said this earlier, but about the light turning on and off immediately when you first plug it in isn’t a symptom of anything. That happens even when it works fine.

The last thing you mentioned actually happened to me too though, and if I remember correctly it happened because I had some ribbon cables that go to the te pcb connected incorrectly. I think I had the 2 on the left switched (cuz they are exactly the same size, it’s easy to mix them if you don’t pay attention) I’m not 100% sure, but I think that was it… I know at least that when I had that problem it had nothing to do with the wiring- that was all correct. I’d look at how you have your cables hooked up to the TE PCB, and maybe what you have your stick selection switched to when powering on.

650

Hmm, I’ll take a looksie at the ribbons. I haven’t messed with the ribbons at all, so I don’t see it being the problem.

Looking back at previous posts, I noticed that Inverse had the same problem as me. I’m gonna try his fixes (if any) and see what happens tomorrow. Right now… its late and I’m gettin’ frustrated at my TE :smiley: Back at it tomorrow.

651

I think im having a bit of a problem.

In my custom stick, i modded an 360 Controller PCB without common ground, every button goes to 2 Pts on the PCB.

Now i want to mod it again (Dual mod) with the Cthulhu. But is this even possible then?

652

Nope, get a Madcatz pad. Refer to slagcoin.com for the model number(s).

653

maybe i’m confused… you undid and redid all your soldering, without unplugging the cables that go to the TEs pcb?? If so, I guess you got some skills…haha. I unplugged everything and removed the whole pcb when I did it. But yeah, I had that same problem, and for me I’m pretty sure it was that I had those 2 left cables switched when I plugged everything back into the TE.

Either way, hope you get it figured out.

654

Hah, I didn’t even think about removing the PCB from the case, I just did it while everything was hooked up and in the case still :smiley:

Well, I’ve ruled out the cables, simply because I never messed with them to begin with, and also the 360 portion of it is working perfectly, just the MC Cthulu side of things is whats getting me.

Here are some pics.

The MC Cthulu

The backside of it, I had to solder the Grn/Wht from the bottom since the jack was there

In the pic above, the left most solder point should be the Wht, which is hooked up to the 1 D- on the imp

The right solder point should be the Grn, which is hooked to the 1 D+ on the imp

Here are pics of the imp and TE360 PCB if you want to see it (made 'em links to avoid flooding the page).


I really don’t know what it is. Today I am gonna remove all the wires from the screw terminals and soldering them directly to the bottom of the Cthulu. Maybe the screw terminals aren’t really contacting every wire, but rather the wire coating itself. I’ve had this prob doing other dual-mods, so maybe this will be the solution.

OMG I’m so close… :confused:

Another thing… shouldn’t the MC Cthulu be working if I plugged in a USB jack from it to the PC (at least be recognized by it)? Or has the imp changed that so the USB jack on the Cthulu is deactivated? Trying to plug the USB jack from the Cthulu to the PC gives me the same results as if I tried to hook in the TE USB while in DP mode, an unrecognized device.

655

Okay, so I redid everything ONCE again… and now it works.

Well, I gotta say thanks to everyone for helping out through those frustrating times.

Big thanks to bomberman for the awesome guide!

656

Missing person brought up an interesting point in my thread.

http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=201212

I was wondering if everyone who’s done this dual mod bombermans way has had these same issues or if it was just a big coincidence and we had faulty pcb’s from the get go.

657

no issues for me.

658

I just did this mod on my TE. Took 5 hours. No problems. No F ups. Thank the lorddddd.

<3 you bomberman and <3 toodles as well.

659

I know that this guide is for the Xbox 360 versions of Mad Catz’s Street Fighter IV FightStick Standard and Tournament Editions, but I thought that I could get some help with modding my friend’s PlayStation 3 FSTE. Let me know if I have to move this post since the last thing I want to do is get under anyone’s skin. I just want to have some clarity that my idea might work even in theory.

Okay, first off, I’d like to establish that I’m not using the PS3 PCB for anything at all in this mod in terms of console compatibility. The PS3 and PlayStation 2 functions will be taken care of by a Multi-Console Cthulu and the Xbox 360 side shall be handled by a 2009 Mad Catz common ground controller. However, although the PS3 FSTE PCB won’t be used, I still wish to use the Turbo and PS button window for the Lock Switch Mod, the RS switch for changing consoles, and the PS Button as…well, the PS Button.

Although I have no pictures or a diagram, here’s what I was thinking:

I would solder up the button contacts and grounds to the terminal block since the PS3 FSTE doesn’t have that convenient little alternate soldering point bit sticking out of the Turbo/PS Button window. Those button contacts would go to the Cthulu, which will also have inside of the screw terminals wires coming from the button signals from the Mad Catz X360 controller.

Now, to get the dual USB console functionality, I would have to use the Imp. To the Imp would go the USB cable from the FSTE going to the GND, D+, D-, and VCC of the USB jack. The Cthulu’s D+ and D- would go into the Position 1 D+ and D- of the Imp and the X360 D+ and D- would go to the Imp’s Position 2 D+ and D-. The Ground and VCC points on the Cthulu would go in a pseudo daisy chain first to the Cthulu’s Row #2 Voltage point and the X360 controller’s Voltage point. Same deal with the Ground point on the Imp; it’d go to one of the GND points on the Cthulu’s terminal blocks and a GND point on the X360 controller. Hopefully I have this correct.

The biggest questions I have here are how to get the PS, Lock Switch, and RS switch to work on the PS3 FSTE PCB. Now, if I know my basic electronics correctly, due to the fact that the FSTE PCB is perpetually without voltage, the entire damn thing will act like a giant ground meaning the PS button will always be pressed, the Lock Switch mod won’t work, and the RS point will be perpetually activated meaning the Cthulu won’t be able to activate for PS3 use and the Imp will always switch over to the Xbox 360 PCB. At least that’s what I’m thinking. To remedy this problem, I was thinking of running additional wires from the VCC and Ground points on the Imp to the FSTE’s VCC and Ground points, just for the sake of giving power to the PCB and adding it to the network of common ground. Now, even if it’s not actually functioning for anything, at least since it’s getting the same voltage as the rest of the array, I should be able to then use the Lock Switch, PS button, and RS point with ease, am I correct?

I apologize for the long block of text, but I wanted to be as clear as possible.

Also, I didn’t see this when I read through the thread, but I’d like to know when I start modding my own Xbox 360 FSTE. Why, in Bomberman’s diagrams, does it say to make the Cthulu take the Position 1 D+ and D- points? Is there some reason why the X360 FSTE PCB can’t take the Position 1 D+ and D- points?

Thanks in advance. Whoever reads through this deserves a freaking medal. :china:

660

I feel like kind of a noob for asking this, but I have a 360 TE, and I only want to set it up for additional PS2/Wii support, not PS3. Do I still need an IMP board?

Also, for the RJ-45 jack setup on the same stick, I’d like to see exactly where (or at least the best place) to drill the hole for it, and to confirm what size drill bit is needed (24 mm, right?).

You’ll have to forgive what may seem like laziness on my part, but it’s pretty late. I may just send out my stick and pay to have it done for me. Not too confident with soldering, as I’ve never done it before.