yeah, we might be talking out our asses, but I think the power does go from usb through cthulhu to mad catz pcb no matter which you select. The switch isn’t switching where the power goes to, but which boards data signals (D+/D-) are active I think. But I don’t know, I might just be showing how little I know, which is a testament to the tutorial- cuz whether you understand this stuff or not- if you can solder and follow the diagram, you can have a working mod, lol.
Caesar I’m sorry about that. I added a text comment in the guide where the diagrams are linked that mentions this: when using a PS3-only Cthulhu, run the power wire from the Cthulhu’s USB 5V point, not the Row 3 V point.
Summer school is keeping me wayyy too busy but I think within the next week or 2 I will get the text of the guide updated as well as fixing the PS3-only diagrams.
Manman good job fielding those questions!
One small detail: Row 3 on the MC Cthulhu is not protected by the same quality of diode that rows 1 and 2 are, so row 3 should only be used when row 1 and 2 have already been used. On the PS3-only Cthulhu, none of the rows is protected, and none of the V points will work unless you jumper (add a short wire to) the spots where the diodes go.
The sad story of my now broken TE + MC Cthulhu + Imp mod
I embarked on this mod and after some initial shorts with my home button, all was seemingly well. I decided that I would much rather have a toggle switch instead of the imp board so I removed the imp board and began cleaning up my wiring job to make everything nicer. Then everything went down from there.
I reattached the USB Cord to be back directly hooked up to the TE PCB and fired it up for a test run. Although, the board is getting power and has no shorts on the USB it now shows up as a “Unrecognized USB device” in windows. After much frustration I decided to remove all my solder wires and basically restore my TE PCB to be just as it was from factory, but still it shows up as an “unrecognized USB device”
Do you guys have any suggestions for what to do now? I am not sure what recourse I have now.
By the way, thanks for all the great tutorials. They have been immensely helpful.
thanks a lot for the clarifications and all the help guys! I will go buy sum wires today and try to get the job done on saturday.
ahh! sorry, another quick question…
I went to go cut the USB cable off the PCB and there were 5 wires instead of 4!!
red, white, green, and two blacks… one of the blacks is for “SGND” but there is no corresponding SGND on the imp board.
do I need to leave that SGND wire intact on the TE PCB or can I cut it off and leave it hanging? or do I need to solder it onto something else??
The shield ground is mentioned in the guide. It can be cut off.
Any ideas?
Even worse now I decided to quickly wire up my MC Cthulhu board to a USB cable and plug that into my PC and I get nothing. Not even an unrecognized USB device. Help in any for would be greatly appreciated. I just seem to be generating spare parts.
EvilNeru I can fix it for you if you want to throw in the towel… 
I link to my trade thread in post # 3.
But for now, do you have the MC Cthulhu connected to the TE PCB in any way? If you do but forgot to run the power and ground wires from the MC Cthulhu, it won’t work. If the PCBs are not connected, then the problem is either: the soldering of the USB cable to the Cthulhu, the assembly of the Cthulhu, or a fried Cthulhu.
My TE PCB is completely “stock” again. I reconnected the USB cables and it is not recognized by my PC. Currently the Cthulhu is assembled with just a USB cable soldered to it for testing purposes. To be honest I am more concerned with the TE PCB. It is appearing more and more likely that I have fried both PCBs.
thanks!!
that said… good news coz so far… it works!!
I assembled the IMP and began wiring everything together… jus the Ds, the VCC, ground, and I wired the Home and Guide buttons together…
since none of the buttons are hooked up, I didnt wire them to test them out, but I thought the current setup would do something…
plugged it into the xbox, held the guide button down and the console powered up!! pressed the guide button a few more times and I began to go in and out of the menu thing!
now tried PS3, switched to RS, plugged it in, held the guide button down… nothing happened… I guess that doesnt turn the console on… so I turned it on manually and fortunately holding down the guide button does indeed bring up the shut down option screen, and pressing it again closes it.
so yeay! proof of concept shows me it works, I guess I’m a happy dood now! I’ll prolly finish tomorrow, I’ll let u guys kno how it works out.
thanks! :chat::chat::chat:
Sorry for the OT, but can one use an AXISdapter with the TE 360 PCB?
I believe AXISdapter or rather the SIXAXIS controllers are non-common ground. My common ground to non-common ground knowledge is limited but I believe you can not mix the two without serious modifications.
whooo!!!
jus wanna say, Thank you Bomberman for the guide! Toodles for the parts!! manman, Mr Ceasar, Kakitajamie for helping and answering my questions!!
I finished it and it works perfectly like a charm!! played sum SF4, played sum BlazBlue on both my systems and dominated everyone!!
plus I definitely feel smarter now that I’ve learned so much new stuff!
I’m ready for evo now!!
:rock::rock:
thanks!
Sambao, you’re Jekki? Shame on you for sneaking around in disguise!
But congratulations on finishing your mod.
First, thanks for the fantastic guide! Everything is very clear and easy to follow.
I’m using a Cthulhu, Imp, and 360 TE stick.
I got everything hooked up and go to the testing phase. The stick works perfectly in the default 360 mode. All the buttons work and there are no problems.
However, I can’t seem to boot up the PS3 mode. I hold down guide and the stick still shows up as a TE stick in Windows. On my PS3, it shows up as an “unrecognized USB device.”
Any ideas where the problem might be?
did you follow the original guide or the diagram he added later? If you followed the picture diagram, then having it recognized by ps3 would be a matter of having the stick selection switch set to something other than RS instead of holding the guide button. One other thing I’d check for is if you have the turbo lock set. I had that mess with my testing once, but it might not be recognized by either if that was the case…not sure. something to check for though.
Thanks manman. I’m an absolute moron. I used that picture but never noticed it said to switch to RS. I just tried it and it works perfectly! Haha!
np, glad you got it working. It’s always good to find out you made a simple mistake as opposed to having to recheck the soldering after all that work, haha.
Must… update… guide… but have two papers to write… Grr!!!
3 more days until Evo and I have no power on my SE. None. I wired it exactly as done in Bomberman’s MC Cthulhu to SE diagram. Using an assembled MC Cthulhu. Plug it in, nothing, no lights. Nada. All my connections look good, and this is the last thing I wanted because I am new to this kind of mod but not to computers, and I know this is probably going to be the worst fucking thing to trouble shoot.
I’ll read through the thread word for word for a solution to this or some kind of troubleshooting guideline.
Some tips on how to use the assembled MC Cthulhu properly might help. I’m concerned I didn’t “slide” the wires in properly. Is it only exposed copper that is to fit within the “teeth” of the screws on the assembly? Meaning strip all insulation, or just leaving a bit exposed fine?
For tonight I go asleep depressed. Been working on this all weekend and am really dissapointed. This seems so straight forward. The soldering itself was simple, unless some small step was missed in the diagram or the initial two posts, I just don’t see what I’m missing. The more I read those two posts, the more I get the sense of “little things” being glazed over due to experience of you more experienced modders.
For example, no mention of the common ground diodes on the SE board were made in the initial posts, yet I noticed them, looked them up and was told to be careful not to get those desoldered lest the board not function. Little things like that seem to be like a “Duuuh” kind of thing for some of you guys, but I think a headsup would be nice.
Anyways, I’m going to make some coffee and take a hard look at this again. The only difference here was in the use of 26 AWG wire instead of 30, it was all I could get. If that’s the primary reason why this is failing, tell me so I can buy a SE PS3 stick before heading out to Evo. -_-