how did you mount it?
can someone PLEASE show me a soldered home/start/select/turbo picture?? i.e the other siode of the PCB
?
Thanks in advance,.
Justin
EDIT: Dw now I bought the buttons, Hopefully you can get me my buttons and quick disconnects very soon Laugh, cause last time I bought something from korea it got here quite quick, hopefully you do the same:)
P.S Later on down the track I will buy a JLF if I get everything quick the first time. Do you have blue clear bubbletops for sale and can you get the sticks with the Metal mounts?
on the SE case, hear the USB out there are 4 different post with hole in them. these where the ones that the original usb cable wrapped around.
just get a screw with a larger pitch than the whole. a plastic washer screw it in and you are golden!
Laugh or anyone, I need to know the dimensions of the JOYTRON PAEWANG REVOLUTION PCB. Also, if anyone can update with a better quality hi res picture of the front and back of the PCB along with the +5 volt pin out. Thanks
you want straight on shots?
or are you looking for a PCB layout?
secondly, there is no +5V pin out… …only what comes in from the USB
straigt on shots would be nice. I think there is +5 volts coming in from the USB. It should be the red wire. I may want to use a Perfect 360 Happ joystick.
Quick question, has anyone figured out how to mount an LS-32 into this without there being screws showing from the top?
sweet thread man…very nice…been wanting to upgrade mine…
wanted to ask u if i could use this:
http://www.arcadeshop.de/Sanwa-Joyst...JLF-H_640.html
thanks
Did you find any active lines to determine which pcb is active? I just ordered 6 boards and from etokki and i’m wondering this for myself! The only solution i can think of is to connect turbo to MasterStrike signal S2 so that on powerup, you can switch LEDs… Since by default, if turbo is not pressed, you know its in PS3 mode. If turbo is pressed during startup, you know it will be in 360 mode, so might as well re-use that button press to signal MasterStrike 
I got a similar problem.
When in PS3, the R1 is not working. When I press Turbo, it activates R1 like if it was always pressed. What I could notice is that the L1 is the problem, since it seems to be always pressed, but it’s no even wired here.
Now in PC it’s not being recognized anymore.
edit: I don’t know why, but it somehow is working now.
I just ordered a Paewang Revolution from eTokki yesterday. How long do you think it’ll take to get it shipped to Ontario, Canada using the cheapest shipping? Thanks!
i just soldered up my pad…
holy shit this thing is easy to solder. ill be getting more of these if i ever do any more custom sticks. given that microsoft doesnt patch them out.
Anyone know if I would be able to put this pcb in a TE ps3 stick and still be able to use the home and turbo buttons on the seperate pcb already in place ?
here is what i did
solder the wires to the appropriate pads and use the old harness
Can I solder everything to the bottom too? o-o
Thanks ill try this ASAP I couldnt live with the small stick size and I got 2 TE sticks for the ps3 so I might as well put the pcb in one to get a tournament stick since in sweden they use 360s 
there are more pictures of the build so far here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/32teeth/sets/72157623791174181/
Yes i’m taking a page out of your book… going to mod a bunch of my friend’s TE’s using this with 2.54 headers, and cables to plug into them (crimped with .110 terminals on the other end)… and on one of them, i will also add a second set of 90 degree headers… but instead of an arduino, i will piggy back gummowned’s leo dual mod board… all to get dual wired (for tournaments) + dual wireless (for casual)… kind of a quad mod… then add masterstrike and arc-eye led… i’ll post pictures here when the joytron is here from etokki… next week i hope!
hi
I am completly new to this modding thing. Crown CWB203C are 20mm in diameter,right ? if yes Can I use the sanwa SDM-20 also.
Both of these brands have same quality ?