Yes.
But sadly it’s no guarantee that it will continue to work in the future. Here’s hoping though…
You can put turbo and select on to the same button, as long as you dont press anything while holding select for some reason.
Also, I have finally started my mod, the worklog is here
Cool, I never thought about that. I always thought you will need individual pcb points to individual buttons. I learn something new even though I don’t solder. =)
Hey guys, I took the liberty to speak direct with Datel with regards to this and can advise as follows (after speaking with sales and distribution manager); The law suit is at very early stages and as of yet there is no sniff of Microsoft blocking them. Also note that this lawsuit is directly pointing at the unofficial xbox 360 only controller which uses a completly different chip set when compared to the PCB in the duel fight stick. Lastly Microsofts lawsuit is requesting that they pay royalties and ‘loss of earnings’ whilst ceasing to manufacture, on this basis they WOULD NOT be able to then block this chip set if they received royalties and loss of earnings. Worst case all this means is the supply may/likely will dry up which in turn will push the costs of this PCB up. So in short and to summarise there is no need to panic. Hope this is of help.
- J
ATTENTION - CHEAPER DATEL PCBs
I just emailed Datel, requesting that they sell the PCBs from the stick separately, at a lower price.
I hope you can all see how this would benefit us builders.
If you want this to happen, please email them as well. Enough interest will show them that it is a good idea to sell us these awesome PCBs.
Thanks, Cannon
This is an odd request, but does anyone have a picture of the screws used on the bottom, holding the bottom metal plate to the case? I knocked over some crap and now I have screws from 2 different projects mixed together.
they’re flat on the bottom and there are 6 of them
hmm well i went with the first set i had of 6, these definetly aren’t flat. lol
gracias
Just as a note for this post, I took a JLF I modified for a hori t5 stick, and dremeled around it to make it square and slapped it right in.
Laugh’s method is superior, I just had it lying around.
Edit: NVM
anyone know the active lines for when xbox or ps3 is active?
is there a way to determine on the board which system you are in, like an active HIGH on one line vs anoter?
Are you going to do LED?
Like how IvIePhisto did with the Dual Strike?
I had a recent problem with the pcb, the 360 side has one missed input on ONE button only, basically i really have to mash on my hard punch button to get an input and even then i get a failed input, but on the ps3 side everything works perfectly fine
Wow i had the same problem at a tournament this weekend on xbox360 (i play on PC at home, 360 mode) and HP sometimes didn’t register. I had one of the best players test it out in training mode though and he had zero problems so i thought it must be just me sucking on xbox360, but now that i’ve read this i’m worrying =\
Ive been playing SSF4 on mine for a couple of days and although my fingers hurt from the plastic buttons its been working fine, tomorrow im gonna follow this tutorial an put sanwa stuff in it.
Yeah, this stick is dreadful when it’s stock
Just got done with my mod OBSF30 snap ins with JLF stick, great guide thanks !
Nice mate!
Can someone please make a Vewlix template for this stick(Brightish red one not the dark looking one) because I can’t find one:(
finally got down to some work on the PCB last night
retrofitting it into a MadCatz SE
male headers on buttons input
custom 5 wire harness for sanwa (don’t mind the color)
quick disconnect on USB wiring (additional VCC/5+V wire for mystery PCB… …more later)
male headers on buttons and USB
all connected and sitting pretty in the SE case (buttons harness leads are not connected to physical buttons yet)