That is the Mayflash stick. There are only 2 connectors on the cable: one for PC/PS3 and the other for PS2. To use it on GC/Wii you have to use an adapter on the PS2 connector.
More info on how to mod it here.
Hey OP
- Is there any difference between the 203A and 203C buttons?
- How hard would it be to get the Sanwa buttons to fit in this case?
- Are you still considering to sell this in a kit?
Thanks for replying. You said CWB203C twice though but i’m assuming CWB203C is the better one to get?
Error: Shipping method required!
Is what I get when I try to check out. There’s nothing on the page that allows me to choose a shipping option :|.
also:
How much would shipping to New York cost if I were to order all the parts to mod one of these?
Wow the cost to ship to NY is $30+ with all those parts. I’m just going to buy a HRAP3 and I’ll probably order the PCB from you at a later date if I ever decide to use my 360 for fighting games in the future.
Thank you for answering my questions and I apologize for wasting your time.
Just wondering for my own personal knowledge. How do you determine the spacing between the thru-holes? Is it a measurement from center to center or the space between one hole to the next.
Thanks all
Received my stick about a few days ago from etokki, thanks a lot Laugh! My parts also arrived at the same time (all sanwa).
I started modding it yesterday and finished today, it was so easy, probably because I’d already modded a mayflash.
The method of attaching the stick to the case is A MILLION times easier/cleaner than previous methods used for the mayflash. I used the metal plate and drilled 4 holes through the control panel for the mayflash. The screws were countersunk, so they didn’t stick out, but still this was a lot cleaner. I was lucky enough to find a round drill bit that was covered in sanding paper type material (maybe a bit more coarse) back when I modded my mayflash. The diameter of the bit is about 26-27 mm, so dremmeling from 28 to 30 is insanely easy. Took about 5-10 minutes to do 6 button holes. It was also helpfull when trying to get those little bits off of the stick. Combined with an exacto it was super easy.
I’ve only been able to test the stick on my computer to see that everything works correctly. I’m heading out tonight to test it out on some xbox’s. I’ll test it on my ps3 once I unpack it for Super.
Once again, thanks Laugh!
EDIT: Two noteworthy points:
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The screws that hold down the original stick can be easily cut down to be the right size for the new stick. Some wire clippers or anything similar do the job. No need to buy new screws!
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My wiring harness that came with my JLF has a different color layout than the one in Laugh’s pictures. I couldve approached the dilemma in two ways: either hook up the wires like Laugh did in terms of color, no matter what order they are in on my harness, or hook them up in accordance to the order Laugh uses, regardless of what color they are on my harness.
I did the later, since i figured all the harness’ are probably configured the same way, however wire color can often vary.
In my case, the black wire was ground (instead of orange) because it was the one at the far right. So yea, if for some reason you have a different color layout on your wire harness, ignore the colors. If the far left one for Laugh’s is ground, then it will be ground for yours. If up is the middle green wire for Laugh, then up is your middle wire as well even if its yellow.
Black wire is Ground on Sanwa Wire Harness.
Orange is Ground on Seimitsu Wire Harness.
anyone manage to stick a fanta stick on this yet?
i think you can with a 306 with little problem, i emailed kowal about it i hope he gets back to me
update here is wot kowal said to me; Hi
sorry
I never use korean stick for mod mayflash
awww shucks ok
I have a quick question, i hope i can explain it right. I don’t have a wiring harness for my JLF, and i want to desolder the wires from the original stick so i can use the little white plastic connectors, now as far as i can tell the colors are opposite of normal in this case? The red wires seem to be ground?? Also, does in the pics in the OP the ground from the JLF goes to the UP connector of the PCB, is this nescessary or could it just as well be wired to any of the other directions’ grounds?
EDIT: Well i got impatient and went with what i thought was te right way, so i wired it all up and while the wiring is far from clean, the stick is working perfectly, so now i have a full sanwa stick with Xbox/PS3/Pc compatibility, thanks to the info in this thread =D
Hey laugh, i couldn’t PM you because your mailbox is full, so i thought i’d just post it here
Well i enjoy the fact that it all works, but i’m already thinking of taking the PCB, buttons and stick and putting it in another shell, because the Datel stick is so small i can’t rest my left hand on it as easily as i can with my Hori Fightstick 3 =
It was lots of fun modding my first stick, and now i have a good idea of what to do and what not to do on my next mod =)
Thanks again for writing that tutorial =D
Cross posting here…
Just a little heads up for you guys, MS is suing Datel over patent infringement. Don’t know if this will affect the paewang rev.
Source: news.cnet.com
Things aren’t looking so good :shake:
Can anyone tell me why the hell laugh cut those spots off of the JLF and then used shorter screws to mount the JLF?
Why not leave those small screw spots there and use the screws you already have?
Am I missing something?
The JLF’s microswitches rest on those spots, so if you just add screws you add height, and you’d probably break something when you put the restrictor back on. When you shave off those spots the microswitches will rest on the screws themselves.
I’m not sure if I fully understand but, I imagine it will make sense when I start putting it all together
that is just wot laugh wants to do. there are many ways to mount it. for instance like basic hori’s is the same style.
I now see why the nubs were cut off
cutting them off makes it fit perfectly
Rather than using shorter screws I just cut the ones included shorter, works fine.
Hey laugh, just a question.
Assuming getting just the pcb, say…I would need a dedicated turbo button just to swap consoles? or would there be another method besides using turbo?
There was a 360 update today. Does the PCB still work? just wondering because i’m planning on making a stick with the mayflash pcb in the coming weeks.