How easy is it to replace the art? Could anyone make a template?
Already made.
Here is PSD of the exact same as above, for whatever reason you would want.
Cool, thanks. This looks like a good stick to try my first custom work on.
Anyone tried dual modding this with a PSX PCB?
Laugh, is this the same pitch as the screw in connectors used in the axisdapter or Cthulhu? j/w if you knew off hand.
thanks
^ Thanks laugh, I’ll look into it.
Hi Laugh, I was wondering: Have you found a way to put a Korean stick into the Paewang?
Also: Will you be selling the Saulabi? (Plastic and wooden versions)
I’m curious, when you sell the PCB separately are you scraping the case/stock parts or do you buy the PCB separately as well?
The case would be nice enough as a budget case if you’re basically throwing them out anyway.
Hey laugh i was wondering how u swap between ps3 and 360
Hold Turbo while plug into Console.
PCB set to Xbox 360 default when receive.
I’m guessing, by the Ingrish, that’s word for word what it says on the package.
I remember reading the booklet that came with my Mayflash and being reminded of Google translate 
only thing is you would have to drill holes for the start/home buttons etc. since the panel of 4 at the top uses the pcb to hold them in place. otherwise, yep makes a great budget case! would probably be good for someone with an already modded mayflash too that wants a white case
Does that mean if you only have a ps3 you only have to change it to ps3 once? Thats pretty cool.
The screw terminals on the Cthulhu have a 5.08mm (or .200") pitch which is double that of the Paewang PCB. 2.54mm (.100") screw terminals do exist though:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=277-1280-ND
The copper pads on the PCB would need to be drilled but that’s easy with a 1mm bit. I did it on a Mayflash PCB so I could fit thru-hole headers:
Cool…thanks MKL, et.al.
Yes, I do have HSS bits for my dremel to do that, and you incidently answered my next question.
Thanks!
The difference between a 2.5mm and 2.54mm pitch is negligible when the connector has less than 10-12 ways. So you can use either the 2.54mm screw terminals I posted above or 2.5mm headers like the ones in my pic (JST NH) or the ones you’re using (JST XH).
The copper pads on the Mayflash PCB have little holes that needed to be enlarged a little. From the pics in this thread, the Paewang PCB seems to have them too albeit tinned (solder excess would need to be removed as much as possible). A word of advice: the drilling is better done on the side where the pads have the traces going to them: if you start drilling from the other side you risk pushing the pads with the traces off and then you’re in big trouble.
In any case yes, this is only for experienced modders that know what they’re doing.
I remember now, MKL, you used these JST connectors on that beautiful T5 mod you did. Are these avialable here in the US or from Digikey? And it looks like I would have to order a box of them when I probably would just need a few. Is that right? I did do a search at digikey, it doesnt look like they have them avialable…they dont have a picture so I cant really tell what they are refering to.
On your picute of the Mayflash I notice that you placed these connectors on the “green” side of the pcb. I would have assumed to place them on the other side and solder the prongs to the “green” side where the copper is, no? do these need to be soldered in?
Thanks for your help
subscribed
Awesome tutorial, thanks to Laugh and everyone else for contributing
JST NH cannot be ordered in small quantities from Digikey and I don’t know of a US source for these, sorry. However, you can get JST XH in small quantities (10 pcs) from Digikey. These are the connectors used by Laugh in his tutorial:
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=455-2244-ND
Laugh used the vertical header but didn’t install it as it’s supposed to be (thru-hole and thus vertical) because he wanted to skip the drilling of the copper pads.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=455-2224-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=455-2217-ND
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=455-1135-1-ND
Personally I think that if you’re not good at crimping this kind of connectors the screw terminals mentioned previously are a great option. Note that you can use a 10-way one (9-ways do not seem to exist) also for the directions: simply remove the terminals in position 3, 6 and 9 and solder it in place of the old 2-way headers. Here you don’t need to do any drilling as thru-holes big enough are already there.
I installed the headers so that the soldering is done to the pads where the traces are going to (1st pic below). Note that once you widen the little holes to fit the headers, the copper pads on the two sides are no longer connected together. And yes, the headers are definitely soldered in.
http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/3283/immaginejf.th.jpg
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/8611/immagine0.th.jpg
MKL, thank you for the detailed information! It really helps explain alot of things and how to order the correct parts from Digikey.
Thank you.