And someone you has enormously as well as ami with LEDs 1.4 and the paewang?
Hey laugh, your guide is much appreciated. Quick question, is your button harness ideally setup for the datel arcade pro as well ? How much is shipping to Europe ? Cant’ find crown buttons here either 
For those of you throwing this into a MadCatz TE, the same guy who made the PS360 mod tutorial that was posted earlier posted one using the Paewang. It helped me out a lot when I was troubleshooting the project.
[media=youtube]SVA564Dq9ZY[/media]
Hi Im new here, also new to modding arcade stick, I got a question, will I need to buy Paewang Wiring kit to mod my Wii tatsunoko vs Capcom Arcade stick, or could I just stick with the same?
Here is a photo reference to the inside of the stick
Just a quick question, I just received my PCB and without hooking anything up yet should it still be detected if I plug it into my 360 or PC? I was just checking and my PC or 360 doesn’t recognize it.
How strong is the autofire on the Paewang? is it stronger or as strong as the autofire on the Madcrapz PCBs?
Just got a paewang revolution from Focus Attack, installed it, works fine for Xbox360 (All buttons and directions work). When switching it over to PS3, it does not switch over when holding down turbo and plugging it in. I read in this thread four others who had the same problem but it has not been addressed. Could the PCB be defective? Thanks.
Using a Mayflash PCB, I don’t know what is wrong but whenever I press right, LP and HK also activate. Whenever I press left, LK and HP also activate, what is going on?
If it means anything, I daisy chained the ground using QDs and I soldered the signals to the buttons.
Edit: v Yeah, sorry about that, was just kind of annoyed.
Also, it wasn’t LK/HP or LP/HK, it was just triggering L3 and R3. I didn’t even know they could be mapped through the Mayflash PCB.
Asking your question in 3 different threads isnt’ going to get it answered any faster.
Hello all,
I have a quick question about the Paewang control board:
Does the PCB supply out +5V?
I recently inherited a custom stick built using the Happ Perfect 360, which needs +5V. I see that most of the sticks that people are using with the Paewang are passive switch sticks, so I’m wondering if anyone has some experience with the Perfect 360 and the Paewang or other PS3 control boards.
Thanks in advance.
Red USB Wire is +5V.
PLEASE HELP
Ok so i have no idea what just happened.
I modded my stick with the joytron, and i’ve been playing on it no issues for about a week. Last night I was playing SFxT, and all of a sudden (no drops or nothing) LK and Turbo fused together… ? And what’s worse, LK is being held down on the board somehow. So basically if I hit turbo, LK comes out and doesn’t stop coming out even when I release the button. I mean the Joytron doesn’t look like that at all… the LK looks fine. the ground for the LK looks fine. the Turbo looks fine. The ground for the turbo looks fine. But now, NOTHING comes out when I press LK, and when I press Turbo (to switch consoles) Turbo LK just keeps pressing the button going through my menus and shit.
I even took the entire thing apart… took all of the wires off of the PCB, and connected ONLY Turbo. when I press turbo the exact same thing happens.
Please note. ALL of the other buttons including the joystick work just fine. Just LK for some reason… Any advice?
Honestly I will buy another one, but I just would like to play something in the meantime. Man what a fucking time for this thing to break on me…
Holy Crap, I’ve been using this pcb for maybe a year now, my LK stopped working, I went on shoryuken, read your post, and I have the exact same problem! What would even cause this? I wonder if there is a way to reset the PCB.
I was wondering, I have using like 20 of these pcbs, but one i was wiring last night the r1/rb, doesnt work, the board is brand new, no sloppy soilder, clean and percise, i also cleaned it and checked for something blocking the path on the circut? This happen to anyone else? know how to fix it?
Does anyone know what the pitch between the through-hole soldering points is on the Paewang Revolution board?
I’m looking to buy some screw-terminal-blocks to turn this into a solderless PCB, but I don’t have any tiny terminal blocks on me to test, and I’m hoping to not have to make an order at Mouser/Digikey just to see if they’ll fit (their shipping prices to Canada are high enough to discourage multiple small orders).
From my measuring with a ruler and a set of digital calipers, the distance between the solder points are ~2.2mm… which doesn’t seem to be a standard pitch; the standard ones being 2mm, 2.5mm, and 2.54mm…
what is so hard about stripping the wire, push through hole, tap back with soilder, and it looks clean as hell
Oh, don’t get me wrong. I already have 2 sticks with these soldered in. It’s not about the difficulty; it’s more of the versatility and flexibility.
For one, I may be swapping around the PCBs in my boxes a bit. That, and I have a couple that I’m making for a couple of cousins on the other side of the continent; I’d like for them to be able to swap parts and do stuff on their own since I clearly won’t be anywhere near them to do it…
Hi all
I see this question a couple of times but no answer was given. So I’ll ask again.
My Paewang Revolution PCB was working perfectly fine, a couple of weeks ago I took it to a friend’s and we play on his xbox360 no problem. I generally use it on my ps3. I came back home and connect it on the PS3, but I’m getting the “device not recognized” message.
I tried rewiring it to no avail, any ideas?
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance
It sounds like you forgot to hold the turbo button, hold it down and plug into the ps3. hope that is it!
Yes, that’s how I plugged it in everytime, but it doesn’t work. I even tried rewiring the turbo button and it works fine when I tested on the pc.
Any other ideas?
Thanks