You need eight for the Joystick.
I cant fit Sanwa buttons right?
Not without modify.
Did you ever get around to putting this custom harness in the store? If not where can I buy the quick disconnecting block?
Thanks, Rob
Is there a way to make it so the home button is start+select? If so can I get a diagram or instruction?
Does anyone know the highest mount height for the Korean sticks?
I read somewhere that it should be mounted on a 13mm control panel which is about half of an inch.
I feel a little picky and OCD, will mounting with a 9/16(slightly over 14mm) inch panel work just as well?
is there anyway i can replace the ball top that’s in a crown stick with a bat top, if not with a different ball top
During the soldering process with the crown buttons.
I noticed you joined the first four ground leads to different points than the last four.
Could you explain what difference it makes?
Thanks for the help.
Edit:
http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/2484/sv102546.jpg
This is the pic in question.
It does not matter.
I already explained it Page 15.
It doesn’t even matter which side is Ground or Signal.
Signal can go on said with the two solder pads if is wanted.
Damn I am surprised at how solid this case is. This is SE quality imo. And the stock stick isn’t near as bad as I thought it would be. Buttons are another story…
Can you use Sanwa (or maybe another brand?) button plugs on this stick without filling down the holes? Want to plug up the furthest left two and replace the rest with Crowns.
I don’t think so. The buttons are 28mm buttons which I think would require these (Happ Hole Plug) and even then you’d still need to do something about the tabs on the button holes.
i’ve been checking back on this forum to see if i can possibly find myself a solution to my problem :(…
I’ve taken out the paewang PCB and placed it in a HRAP3 stick and wired everything up.
Along with certain other things that dont work, my main problem is still that as soon as i plug it in, It shows “R2” - “RT” (“button 7” windows game controllers) being held. I unsoldered the wires and disconnected any wiring to ANY of the buttons and still this persists. Did I screw up the paewang PCB somehow?
So I accidentally assigned my mk button to turbo and the included manual doesn’t say anything about un-assigning buttons. Anybody know how to do this?
Edit: Whoops, didn’t realize it resets when it’s unplugged. Nvm.
thanks for confirming that.
co-sign
Laugh where exactly did you find the actual connectors for the custom harness itself? I tried looking through electronic stores and Fry’s for a 9 pin connection but was unsucessful in doing so.
Well I finished up my soldering on my Datel, and it works perfectly. Somehow I’d managed to label up the points wrong, so the buttons were all messed up, but thats the beauty of quick disconnects. All I need to do now is get my art work printed off and I’m done with my first mod. I’ll post pics after that.
For my next mod, I want to put a PSone DS PCB into a Datel Arcade Pro. Has anyone else done this? Do you think RJ45 would be a good option? Should I forget the PSone PCB and just go with a custom PCB? My PSone controller is a clear plastic, and I’m not sure if I want to rip it open for the PCB.
I have put a PSone PCB in once but not with the RJ45. Just had 2 wires flapping out.
It is quite easy since both are common ground. Just make sure that there is no cold solder otherwise there will be problems.
Also when linking the 3.3v to the 5v, on the other side of the USB part you can solder onto where the red wire is.