No, a JLF is not better than another JLF.
You know the [T] in -8YT stands for JLF-P-1?
Well of course you not know.
That is why ask question.
JLF-P-1 is Sanwa Flat Mounting Plate.
You will not be using a Mounting Plate when installing JLF following Tutorial by laugh.
So… this pcb works on both 360 and ps3? Putting this in my Voltech case more economical than getting a chimp+madcatz pcb?
yes it would be cheaper to spend $50 rather than about $80
PCB supports both PlayStation 3 and Xbox 360, yes.
Even VOLTECH uses it himself.
$50 shipped?
I was just thinking about getting this from amazon and yanking the pcb:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RF8A28/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER
He doesn’t provide that service does he?
Service of installing and wiring the PCB in one of his Cases?
brighenne does the electronic work for VOLTECH.
Thank you for the reply, and yes i did not know about it 
ans the custom harness any info about that ?
jdm, where can I get the pcb?
You have to make your own.
laugh not sell it.
You get it from laugh himself.
Laugh.
Buy from Webstore of laugh.
http://www.etokki.com/Joytron%20Paewang%20Revolution%20PCB%20Only
Any place in Canada i could order one from or the US?
As far as I know, the PCBs are completely interchangeable.
I completely forgot to buy a JLF wire harness and from what I can see, you should be able to use those plugs by soldering directly onto the microswitches of the stick. There’s contact points on the underside of the PCB or protruding metal prongs that you can use; just look at the stock stick and do as they have done. I’m planning on soldering directly so I’ll let you know how that goes…
What kind of wire you use if a matter of personal preference, really. Just use whatever you think will be easiest to work with. The main considerations are whether they’ll fit any crimping you plan to do and whether you prefer working with solid or frayed wire (I prefer solid).
UPDATE
Yeah, I wired straight onto the contact points on the microswitches and it works fine. Maybe even easier than laugh’s method except the red wire is ground and the black is signal, which was a bit confusing and I had to swap them all over after I was done.
I’ve got a (probaby stupid) question:
While trying to replace the USB cable for a longer one i noticed that the PCB/original USB cable has 5 wires but any conventional USB cable has 4 wires… They both have Red, White, Green. But the Paewang has 2 black wires…
Do i connect them both to the single USB black wire or should i choose 1 of the 2 on the PCB?
Kanped, thats awesome, thanks for answering my questions. I’ll be placing an order for one of these and the parts shortly. I’ll let you all know how it turns out.
Jinx - one of the black wires is for cable ground and is not needed, it’s usually the crappiest looking one. You will have to pinout which is which.
You don’t need Shield Ground.
It is the thick black wire.
Great guys. thanks
take a look here
the thicker black wire is a Shield / Resistive Ground
and like mentioned is NOT required
it is there mostly for if you decide to put your PCB on a metal surface (which you shouldn’t)
and kinda works like a Anti Static wrist strap if you will
can someone who has modded a PS3 TE to be used on this Paewang board confirm if this is the way to use the home urbo buttons
I’ve modded a TE stick and helped with 2 others. What you gotta do is solder ground / turbo / home to the little green pcb attached to the turbo/home unit…
works like a charm… the leds on the interface won’t work afterwards (of course)…
can someone provide a pic indicating the spots to solder?