Le sigh. Nobody wants to sell me their shaft cover? ;[
When my seimitsu comes in, I’ll let you have it -seeing as how you’re from the DF-dub area too.
Can you tell us what stick fit in there? Or post pics of the inside?
Sweet. When do you suppose it will come in? Where in D/FW do you live? Shoot me a PM.
I’ll post up pics later gotta do some work. Good day all.
Thought some people may be interested so here are some pics of my Hori Xbox360 Wireless Tekken 6 mod.
Parts:
Sanwa JLF Spring x1
Everbilt 471 864 (Home Depot) Spring x1
Omron switches (Desoldered from a JLF TP-MA) x4
Sanwa OBSF-30 Violet Button x8
Sanwa OBSF-24 Violet Button x2
Sanwa GT-Y Octagonal Restrictor Gate x1
Sanwa LB-35-M Violet MeshBall x1
110" Terminals x20
Various color 24g Wires
I didn’t want to do too much dremeling so I decided to keep the Hori joystick base. While this limited my joysticks replacement options, I did experiment with using a mix of parts from Seimitsu and Sanwa that included shafts, actuators and springs. However, the shafts and actuators caused fitment issues by hitting that bottom joystick cover when paired with the Hori joystick base. (This joystick is very slim and I don’t like cutting a hole in the cover for the shaft to stick out.) I decided to go with the stock Hori shaft and actuator and replace the spring, switches and gate. The Omron switches were desoldered from the Sanwa JLF TP-MA PCB due to bottom cover clearance issues caused by the solder points sticking out too far from the PCB. (I guess I could have tried to trim it down but I didn’t want to bother.) In addition, the 2 pivot points that allow the octogate to be rotated have also been trimmed for fitment and the 4 holes were drilled for the mounting screws.
http://mysite.verizon.net/dinhdu/Arcade/stick_l01.jpg
I desolderd 20 points to remove the button pcbs. The button PCBs were discarded do to being needless but mainly for taking up too much space. I soldered 24g wire to extend the wires previously connected to the button pcb and joystick. (Buttons are all common ground.) The 8 button holes on the CP needed to be widen out with a dremel and the joystick bottom cover was dremeled slightly to give more clearance near the joystick area. (I used Madcatz TE standard button layout when reconnecting the wires since I don’t like Hori’s defualt button layout.) Finally, the button terminals have been bent down, again due to the bottom cover clearance.
http://mysite.verizon.net/dinhdu/Arcade/stick_l02.jpg
http://mysite.verizon.net/dinhdu/Arcade/stick_l03.jpg
After a couple hours of work, I now have a usable wireless joystick to add to my collection, which I think is over 40+ now. (Who has time to count anymore after 30.) :lol:
I will replicate this process on my PS3 Tekken6 wireless joystick whenever I find more time. Maybe I’ll even find the desire to also change the artwork.
Have fun modding. :rock:
yo guys i got the stick as a gift and i really wanna put a jlf w/ bat top, and buttons…
the stick looks like it uses 28mm buttons (am i right, if not correct me) and that the pcb with the buttons connected to it doesnt belong there…
if it turns out to be really shitty, i think im just going to rip the main pcb and put it in a new box with better space and weight…
*edit o and to the post above, OMG thanks…
umm i am really a beginner at modding sticks, but i do know how to work well with a soldering iron and electronics…
i was wondering if i could rip the guts inside and just make a new stick out of it…
The stick uses 30 mm buttons and the start and back button are 24 mm.
And the PCB over the buttons, you’re right- it’s useless.
What can you do if you lose/break your wireless dongle. Is there a way to buy another from Hori or a 3rd party website?
nice write up meanbeanmax. it looks like the hori/jlf hybrid will be the only option for sanwa sticks in this case.
Still looking for someone to sell me their T6 shaft cover. ;D
is anyone good enough to make a template to change the art? im gonna make this into a juri stick.
Look on page 6, it has some pictures and a small writeup.
Okay, complete n00b to sticks here, but I got the T6 stick. I’m wondering if dual modding is a possibile for this thing, or would it be too hard/wierd/dumb?
Art template would be really appreciated!!
That really depends on if you want to keep the whole thing wireless, and which version of the stick you originally bought. If you just go and replace the PCB with two wired PCB’s, it’s a fairly easy mod.
Assuming you want to keep the wireless, you’re looking at a much more difficult mod, and you’ll probably want to start with a PS3 stick, because then all you need to do is find a common ground wireless 360 controller and drill a hole for a charging cable, and then connect everything as for a normal dual mod. If you start with a 360 stick, you’ll need to get a Sixaxis and perform some serious soldering in order to convert it to common ground, as documented in this thread.
Alright, thank you. I’m going to check out those pictures and try to find some tutorials on what I’m looking at. I just need to get my hands on some Sanwa parts, and something to unscrew the screws to get it.
Is anybody gonna do a youtube video on how to mod this wireless crap??? That would be very entertaining.
I’m in the works to getting my common ground mod design manufactured. I will receive the boards in 2 weeks (that’s if my first choice company pulls through). Although you will pretty much be on your own on how you want to set up the switching and battery issues. But at least the first two major hurdles will be taken care of (getting access to the button signals and making it common ground).
I’ve put the offer out in my area for anyone with a PS3 one, offering to dual mod it for parts plus a significantly reduced rate so I can write something up. No one in my area even bought a single one. Very sad. I didn’t get one because I don’t need 6 multi-console sticks.