Hori tekken 6 stick

System_1 · November 3, 2009, 4:59am

Hope someone gets in contact with you. Want to mod it myself but would like to have some instructions seeing as I’ve only modded one stick so far and I’m sure this will be a bit more awkward.

System_1 · November 3, 2009, 6:00am

Yeah, from what I been reading about this, I guess it’s more “Different” to Mod and more cramped etc.

shortman1243 · November 3, 2009, 10:49am

Question about the T6 PS3??? o_O

Does anyone know how to put the sanwa button in the joystick. I manage to sand the the side off like the T5 but I do not know how to get the switch to connect to the PCB. I mean the sanwa switch is so different from the hori switch. Does anyone have a mod T6 ps3 with pic??? I totally needs help on this. >w<

Ragnorok64 · November 3, 2009, 10:51am

Wire and a soldering iron.

shortman1243 · November 3, 2009, 10:59am

Ragnorok64 If I used wire and disconnect there is nothing holding the board. The PS3 T6 is so different from the x360 one.

Ragnorok64 · November 3, 2009, 11:04am

Why would you need something to hold the board? just sandwich it all in there. The backplate of this stick is plastic, right? You won’t even have the worry about it shorting out on the back.

homiedude180 · November 4, 2009, 1:22am

Ok. I need help mounting an ls-33 in there. I’m not going to top mount it because I want to preserve the art as much I can - so… any ideas? The screws don’t align with the hori stick’s placeholder and I was even thinking maybe I’d super glue/epoxy the ls-33 after I dremmel away the screw holes.

Ragnorok64 · November 4, 2009, 1:30am

Epoxy is the only way I can think of.

Silk04 · November 4, 2009, 1:32am

I really need a video right now.

System_1 · November 4, 2009, 1:59am

I’m going to need a art template pretty soon.
Anyone planing to do one?
Or can anyone help with making one?

Also… Is there somewhere good guide to how to re-wire new buttons. I see that meanbeanmax has done it so that basically one wire (black) goes around connecting each buttons microswitch upper pin and then individual wires (in different colours) connect original wires, that where attached to pcb, and lower button microswitch pins.
How this is exactly done?

System_1 · November 4, 2009, 2:15am

meanbeanmax:

Thought some people may be interested so here are some pics of my Hori Xbox360 Wireless Tekken 6 mod.

Parts:
Sanwa JLF Spring x1
Everbilt 471 864 (Home Depot) Spring x1
Omron switches (Desoldered from a JLF TP-MA) x4
Sanwa OBSF-30 Violet Button x8
Sanwa OBSF-24 Violet Button x2
Sanwa GT-Y Octagonal Restrictor Gate x1
Sanwa LB-35-M Violet MeshBall x1
110" Terminals x20
Various color 24g Wires

I didn’t want to do too much dremeling so I decided to keep the Hori joystick base. While this limited my joysticks replacement options, I did experiment with using a mix of parts from Seimitsu and Sanwa that included shafts, actuators and springs. However, the shafts and actuators caused fitment issues by hitting that bottom joystick cover when paired with the Hori joystick base. (This joystick is very slim and I don’t like cutting a hole in the cover for the shaft to stick out.) I decided to go with the stock Hori shaft and actuator and replace the spring, switches and gate. The Omron switches were desoldered from the Sanwa JLF TP-MA PCB due to bottom cover clearance issues caused by the solder points sticking out too far from the PCB. (I guess I could have tried to trim it down but I didn’t want to bother.) In addition, the 2 pivot points that allow the octogate to be rotated have also been trimmed for fitment and the 4 holes were drilled for the mounting screws.

http://mysite.verizon.net/dinhdu/Arcade/stick_l01.jpg

I desolderd 20 points to remove the button pcbs. The button PCBs were discarded do to being needless but mainly for taking up too much space. I soldered 24g wire to extend the wires previously connected to the button pcb and joystick. (Buttons are all common ground.) The 8 button holes on the CP needed to be widen out with a dremel and the joystick bottom cover was dremeled slightly to give more clearance near the joystick area. (I used Madcatz TE standard button layout when reconnecting the wires since I don’t like Hori’s defualt button layout.) Finally, the button terminals have been bent down, again due to the bottom cover clearance.

http://mysite.verizon.net/dinhdu/Arcade/stick_l02.jpg

http://mysite.verizon.net/dinhdu/Arcade/stick_l03.jpg

After a couple hours of work, I now have a usable wireless joystick to add to my collection, which I think is over 40+ now. (Who has time to count anymore after 30.) :lol:

I will replicate this process on my PS3 Tekken6 wireless joystick whenever I find more time. Maybe I’ll even find the desire to also change the artwork.

Have fun modding. :rock:

http://mysite.verizon.net/dinhdu/Arcade/stick_l04.jpg

Hey I have a question for you about modding the T6 stick.

Using the TP-MA PCB and the GT-Y Restrictor Plate what did you use for the mount? Did you just use the stock mount that was already there?

Also, would the Sanwa OBSF-30 Pushbuttons be a straight swap out with the buttons in there?

System_1 · November 4, 2009, 2:27am

double post

My Bad, So I’ll just put an image of the un-modded T6 stick.

http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/9484/1103091450a.jpg

djSTAT_C · November 4, 2009, 7:48am

okay just got the buttons (OBSF’s) and a whole brand spanking new JLF…

i was lucky enough to get the JLF from a friend who wanted to sell it, i begged and got it for free ^__^…

ummm so far now i do not have a clue to what to do next…

i can remove that stupid pcb and make it wiring w/ 22 gauge (is this okay?)
and probably slip the OBSF’s in…

what i wanna know, is how the hell am i supposed to swap the hori stick out for my JLF?

homiedude180 · November 4, 2009, 8:03am

Do what the guy on page 6 did (the one with purple buttons) and make a hori/jlf hybrid. Replace hori microswitches and gate with sanwa ones because the JLF itself is too big to fit. And for the buttons, you have to dremmel off the tabs.

jdm714 · November 4, 2009, 8:13am

Tab of Button Holes.

archalien · November 4, 2009, 9:35am

Good news to JLF users, I believe I have found a way to mount the jlf completely intact that overcomes the height clearance issue. I need a drill bit size that I dont currently have to move forward, but initial indication is that this will work maintaining full virgin jlf functionality and no mod to the case.

I will post updates as soon as I can.

Jirvz · November 4, 2009, 9:42am

May I ask what size bit that you need?

Awaiting pictures

CrimsonAsh · November 4, 2009, 9:52am

i really wanna work on a template so i can decide the buttons and color scheme i cant choose between R. Mika or Juri

dman1869 · November 4, 2009, 4:10pm

Has anyone here successfully dual-modded one of these and if so what’d u do?

System_1 · November 4, 2009, 11:55pm

Looking forward to seeing what you did.