where can i find the button layout/template for this stick??
This thing is so wee. And light. Doesn’t work badly at all.
With the Sanwa button replacement, are there buttons that fit the same size as stock, or do all Sanwa buttons require enlarging the button holes a little bit?
I assume the standard gate/bat top mods work?
Hi Everyone,
This is actually my very first post so please excuse me if I end up asking something dumb. I just made the move to an arcade stick and bought a T6 Hori stick (Found it for $40 bucks with the game). I’d love to do the plexiglass mods that I see on the TE’s/Arthong-powered customs. Has anyone been able to do that for this stick?
You will have to grind down these notches made for the hori buttons and file them a little to make it easier. Also, you have to cut off the little nubs on the sides of the sanwas. they’re OBSF-30 buttons. I hear the gates do work. I did replace the ball top with a sanwa ball top if you see my stick a few pages back but i’m not sure about bat top…
OH! and on another note I got my replacement USB receiver in the mail last week free of charge from Hori Tech Support! So… Now i have 2 sticks because I couldn’t buy SSF4 without having some kind of fightstick so I bought a TE LOL.
Art template
So when you guys are putting custom art on this stick, are you removing the buttons to do it? I’ve cracked my 360 version open and removed the balltop from the stick, but the buttons are soldered and everything so I’m kind of thinking I might have to just lay the lamilabel around them rather than under them. I’ve never soldered anything before, so I would rather avoid going through that kind of effort when all I want is new art.
Any tips?
Have to be removed.
Unless you make the holes in art to be around Button, and that is cool with you.
But weird to me.
Laugh.
Ok. Kinda figured, but thought I’d ask. I don’t think its worth the effort to have to solder all that shit again, so I think I’m just going to put the label around the buttons. I know, its weird to me too. 
Changed my tune on modding this thing. Today, I snipped the board over the buttons, desoldered everything, and got the metal plate removed for the art. Feels good, man. Quick question though:
The buttons sure look a lot like Sanwa OBSF-30’s but they’re not, right? They’re some kind of button that Namco makes, correct? I want to order OBSF-30’s for it, but I won’t if they’re already the ones I took out. I’d be using the same color anyway.
Thanks in advance.
Right, they are not Sanwa.
No, they are not Namco.
Cool. Thanks, dude. I think right now my plan is to put some Sanwas in there and put together some kind of Dead Space art. Yeah, I know Dead Space isn’t a game that would use a joystick, but I like the game and the art would make a badass design, I think.
Seimitsu/Sanwa/art full mod
I just wanted to say thanks to everyone in this thread for the great information about this stick. I picked one up and couldn’t stand the art or buttons, so I did a full mod and just finished. Here’s a picture of the final product:
I put in Sanwa buttons (except Back and Start which are Seimitsu so I could get clear black), a Seimitsu LS-33 stick, and the art is printed out and lami-labeled at Kinkos, designed and cut out myself. I had already made myself a very similar Ibuki art mod for my TE stick, and I just rearranged the assets and redid the splatter to match the different layout on this stick.
I took pictures throughout the process and I can try to make a guide or give advice if anyone has any questions, but I basically did the same thing that other people have already posted guides for.
A few points I confirmed but wasn’t too sure about before I started in case this clears things up for someone:
[LIST]
[*]OBSF (snap-in) buttons fit fine; you don’t have to use screw-ins (OBSN) which are a tight fit in there. (Of course you do have to file down the little nubs on the button holes first)
[*]An LS-33 fits fine and sits at the correct height as long as you cut (or Dremel) off the screw columns that held the old stick, epoxy the LS-33 right onto the top plate and then file down the bottom of the case a little bit right below the stick.
[/LIST]
Found the thread I was looking for. I have one of these sticks I managed to pick up for $40 and sold Tekken for $60! Now, I am just a beginner in SSFIV but this stick just doesn’t cut it. I used to play Marvel Super Heroes vs Street Fighter A LOT! on the arcade and was a very good player about 10 or 11 years ago and I know this stick just sucks without a mod. I need to at least change the stick on this because I cannot stand a ball top, mainly because I have never used it before. I want to see what I can do about that and then go from there. I have never modded a stick in my life so links to tutorials and places to buy parts are appreciated.
Found a nice Seimitsu mod on page 8 of this thread. Think I am going to try that out. I am guessing ebay is a good place to buy Seimitsu parts. http://shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=213492&p=7813000&viewfull=1#post7813000
Edit:
I am looking at the Sanwa OBSF-30 buttons and I am going to go with white. I am going to try and get some good blood spatter art to go with it, I am a big Dexter fan. I have seen some sticks in the forums where there seems to be art in the buttons. Can someone point me to some of those?
PS3: Mapping of the soldering points and wireless module holes to buttons and directions.
Thanks to gunmowed (he posted the tracing results earlier on the thread)
http://joystickvault.com/data/1023/medium/Button_Designations.jpg
PS3 T6 solderless mod. Part - 1 The module & PCB
Instead of soldering, I inserted the stripped end of the cables in the holes of the module base.
The cables used were cut from an IDE ribbon cable.
Photo:
http://joystickvault.com/data/1023/medium/Wireless_module.jpg
For cutting the pcb I deviated from gunmowed instructions in order to preserve battery, home button and joystick plugs (and pcb lines/traces). To fix the pcb securely in the case two 3mm holes were drilled to the pcb. One (under the stick plug shown below) was used to screw the pcb to an unused plastic peg inside the case. The 2nd (an afterthought) was drilled where the tape is (see photos below) and a cable tie was used to fix it to one of the pegs of the battery compartment.
Photos:
http://joystickvault.com/data/1023/medium/PCB_Cutting.jpg
http://joystickvault.com/data/1023/medium/PCB_In_place.jpg
WIP photo showing how the cable tie holds the pcb:
http://joystickvault.com/data/1023/medium/WIP_Photo_1.jpg
PS3 T6 solderless mod. Part - 2 Mounting the stick
Solderless part over.
Buttons tabs:
http://joystickvault.com/data/1023/medium/Button_tabs.jpg
Stick mounting (LS-33)
Original screw points grinded to oblivion:
http://joystickvault.com/data/1023/medium/Mounting_Base_modding.jpg
Area to glue the LS-33 base on:
http://joystickvault.com/data/1023/medium/Mounting_base_modding_2.jpg
WIP Photo with LS-33 base epoxy’ed to the case:
http://joystickvault.com/data/1023/medium/Mounting_Base_modding_3.jpg
The bottom of the case was also grinded a bit (about 1-2mm depth) and a plastic protrusion was cut away to make enough space for the LS-33. (no photo here - sorry)
PS3 T6 solderless mod. Part - 3 Wiring
Despite placing direction & home button wires as stated above, I decided to use the original (preserved from PCB plugs) for both the stick directions and home buttons.
Custom harness:
http://joystickvault.com/data/1023/medium/Custom_harness.jpg
Each button was wired to the respective cable coming from the module. A ground chain was used for ground with its end fixed in the ground pole of the home button.
WIP photos showing the wiring:
http://joystickvault.com/data/1023/medium/Buttons_-wiring.jpg
http://joystickvault.com/data/1023/medium/WIP_Photo_2.jpg
http://joystickvault.com/data/1023/medium/Stick-_wiring.jpg
Each button (& the switches) have extra cables left in place for future dual modding.
PS3 T6 solderless mod. Finale & thoughts
http://joystickvault.com/data/1023/medium/Finished_Photo_2.jpg
Parts: seimitsu buttons, LS-33 stick (LS-55) spring, sanwa bat-top
Results:
**1)**The LS-33 mounts nicely in the case, no problems with available space, no visible cuts on the case. On the downside it requires some grinding of the plastic. With a dremel or sth I suppose it will be easier, I used a file to do it and my hands still hurt a day later.
2) Seimitsu screw-ins all mount securely (there is enough space for the nuts). It helps to screw them in one by one. For some bizzare reason the nuts that come with the clear seimitsu pushbuttons were much harder to secure and the buttons were spinning. (test fit - not shown in the photos) The button lugs (with the QDs) were bend to fit inside the case.
3) Solderless part: No problems noted with response. All buttons work normally. Took about 10 minutes to secure the wires in the holes of the module base. It sure is an option for anyone who can’t solder without dropping a huge blob of solder on the pcb and messing the contacts (like me).
4) Preserving the joystick & home plugs (and respective PCB lines) is quite useful. No matter which method you choose (soldering or solderless) it means less work and a nice spot to screw the pcb to the case (see photos).
From my point of view I’d say it is a medium to advanced mod. About 3-5 hours of work and requires some forethought.
Uhm, Hello everyone. I was kinda hoping I could receive some help on this? I was told by a friend to check this here thread on help on modding the stick. I received it around mid February? I believe, and I am just tired of the Art right now, I would mod the stick and buttons but I don’t have the money right now, so I just want to remove that art it’s really dreadful.
So I’m totally new to this modding thing on sticks at the moment. Can anyone clarify on how I’m supposed to remove it and place a new one?>_<;
I have looked through the thread for quite some time, but can’t really understand much…
Thank you to anyone who helps.