i dont have that problem with mine(360)im guessing it just the ps3 version that has problems
It was one of the prizes for the tekken nationals but if I had payed for this I’d be pretty pissed.
…No actually I’m pissed anyways :annoy:
i kinda lucked out cause i received the stick from my friend who won the t6 launch party tourney in la.
i heard the stick is the prize for 4th place at the NA t6 nationals though. pretty suitable for a booby prize.
The whole bundle was for 2nd place at the low budget nationals I went to.
On the other hand those were the best nationals ever because the local organizers ran it according to the hardcore players’ demands, even if the prizes were crap.
Anyone else, by chance, have their stick freeze up instead of auto-power off, requiring a battery pull? I figure I’ll give one more ask to see if this has happened to any other sticks, as I’d rather not go through the motions to return and replace this stick if it’s just going to happen again.
Thanks alot!
Aha. Thanks for letting me know! I think I’m just going to live with it. It’s a very rare occurrence, and only happens when sitting idle for long periods of time. Definitely not worth the shipping hassle if it’s likely to experience the same problem with the next one.
Thanks again!
I’ve been lurking this thread since it’s creation, and it’s been really informative, especially with the picture by picture mod of the ps3 stick… However, he didn’t change the stick.
I’ve been feeling frustrated with my stick - at times it seems to act like it is on a 4 way instead of 8 way. So, that is enough motivation to come onto this thread and ask for help, right?
Anyone have some tips on switching the sticks out? And what parts do you recommend?
So I would of posted this in the “Look at my fightstick”
But I have yet to get my sanwa buttons in so I figured I’d at least show the nice art I put on it.
Template was made by .Cobra
The ruler was put next to the Holy Grail, so needless to say I couldn’t find it. I did my best with what I had but I just cut out enough holes so I could line it up and I’m going to cut out the rest of the buttons once it’s stuck on there good.
THANKS .Cobra!!!
http://img689.imageshack.us/img689/7453/dsc0244c.th.jpg
http://img693.imageshack.us/img693/5870/dsc0247q.th.jpg
File as uploaded by .Cobra
http://www.sendspace.com/file/htj465
It was printed on my Color Home Printer, and then lami-labeled for $3 at FedEx.
And now with all the holes.
http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/3637/dsc0250i.th.jpg
…I really wish my buttons were here already.
Glad you like it. I’m always up to help out, so if you need anything else lemme know. 
Now go lay the smackdown with that.
I guess I should start checking all this stuff hoping it would help somehow, but I’m gonna let them know that other people have the exact same problem with the ps3 stick.
I have one used if anybody would like to buy it.
I used it for about an hour of play time, so it’s still pretty new.
I’m selling it for $50. So if you’re interested my cell phone number is
(626) 487-4030
Karina
I started to work on dual wireless modding and swapping out parts of the ps3 T6 stick. After desoldering the board from the buttons, I noticed that the wireless module on the board is detachable. I then counted how many components on the board are needed. I counted 11: 4 capacitors, 1 diode, and 6 resistors. Although there seems that 4 of those resistors aren’t connected to anything. I circled the components on the board. I figured it would be easier to just cut the board than to try to recreate the circuit. I drew a line for a good spot to cut the board at. After cutting the board, all the buttons and joystick can be rewired by tracing the lines to the pins on the wireless module and wiring them there.
http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j138/gocontourgo/Project%20Leo/PS3%20T6%20mod%20guide/th_2009-12-19154511.jpghttp://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j138/gocontourgo/Project%20Leo/PS3%20T6%20mod%20guide/th_2009-12-19154526.jpghttp://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j138/gocontourgo/Project%20Leo/PS3%20T6%20mod%20guide/th_2009-12-19154544.jpg
I traced the pinout of the wireless module for the buttons:
1:
2:
3:R2
4:R1
5:L2
6:L1
7:Select
8:Start
9:
10:
11:
12:
13:
14:
15:
16:
17:
18:
19:
20:Circle
21:Square
22:X
23:Right
24:Up
25:Left
26:Down
27:
28:Home
29:
30:Triangle
31:
32:
33:
34:
35:
36:
What abound ground? I tore apart the board because it took me too long to de-solder the buttons, so I ended up with just the wireless module that I want to use in future projects.
You’ll still need the rest of the components that I have circled in the 3rd picture of my previous post. They are needed to complete the circuit. You can use pin 1 of the battery connector as ground.
eek… just threw everything in the trash (but nonetheless it would’ve been impossible to recreate the board, I tore it apart pretty much). Maybe someone comes up with schematics…
I could draw a schematic, but the only problem I have is figuring out the values for any of the SMD capacitors on the board.
Can you use the 360 version on the pc? If so, how?!? I have a Macbook Pro with airport.
you would have to use microsoft’s wireless receiver that was designed for using the wireless 360 controllers on pc. Although, I don’t know if the 360 t6 would work for it.
I liked meanbeanmax’s idea for the joystick mixing the Sanwa parts with the Hori joystick to make a compatible Sanwa mod for the Tekken 6 stick without have to do any serious operations to fit the JLF. I went ahead with that mod and it turns out the stick is still crap. Even after stiffing the spring by adding a LS-33 spring, the joystick does not sit at the centre of the pivot without wavering.
I plan on doing a full JLF mod later to correct this.
Here are the pictures.
http://g.imagehost.org/t/0698/DSCF1587.jpg
Stock inside.
http://g.imagehost.org/t/0070/DSCF1588.jpghttp://g.imagehost.org/t/0362/DSCF1589.jpg
After desolering, only the 25mm sanwa buttons fit in the slot. To fit the 30mm buttons, the tabs on the 30mm slots need to be cut and then the entire hole had to be filed slightly for the sanwa 30mm. This two pictures shows the tabs removed and the hole on the left is slightly filed (rough edges).
http://g.imagehost.org/t/0160/DSCF1609.jpghttp://g.imagehost.org/t/0065/DSCF1611.jpg
After the buttons are in, I used plain copper wire (telephone wire) to wire up the buttons. One single stripped piece is used for the ground and wrapped on all button connectors (something I saw some else do on their Tekken 6 stick in this thread. The copper ends are twisted with the Hori wire and taped with electrical tape. No solder was used on the buttons at all.
For the joystick, I used the Sanwa JLF microswitches and applied the JLF ultimate mod by akiharabashop for the micro switches. I took the Sanwa square gate from my Madcatz TE stick (the TE stick uses the octagonal gate now). I also doubled up on springs in the actuator. I combined the stock Hori with a LS-33 spring.
http://g.imagehost.org/t/0369/DSCF1612.jpghttp://g.imagehost.org/t/0181/DSCF1613.jpg
I removed the shaft cover and the dust cover because I do not like them. I am also using a smaller LB-30 balltop as opposed to the standard LB-35 size.
I am still displeased with the performance of the stick itself. The shaft does not sit at the centre of the pivot steadily and feels very flimsy even with the additional spring. I recommend doing the JLF mod if you plan on modding this stick.
does anyone still have any problems with the stick as far as it disconnecting and not responding?
if so is there a way to fix this other than returning it?
I own 2 of the 360 1 of the PS3.
The only problem I’ll encounter is the random 360 auto-power off and then inputs not working.
However. The same thing happens with my 360 controllers. So it just leads me to believe it’s a 360 problem.
No problems ever with the PS3.