Thanks for that Zero-chann. May just be buying my friend another stick if it really did just fry it 
EDIT: Sold out before I could select it lol. Anyway, question still stands on whether anyone has experienced problems with their wireless stick.
Holy shit. They sold that for $30? Damn, wish I saw that earlier.
It sold out in under a minute. I missed out since amazon decided I needed to log in again to add it to my cart.
I know, Iād have picked that shit up for that price. 
Oh wow.
It was only $30?
When I read, I thought $120.
So I did not care.
Man, I read wrong.
Anyone got an answer to this guyās question?
Please, apologies for any perceived offense, this was not my intention, rather, Im a visual person, learner/explainer, and only meant to *resort to pictures if my written explanation was insufficient.
That said I believe I misunderstood your initial question, I thought the height issues you were referring to was the extra height of the stick as it relates to the top of the panel(ball top too high and fulcrum too shallow). Again my apologies.
As for what I believe now to be your question, I cant say exactly for sure, but I believe you will still run into the same issue. The reason is that the installed depth of the hori shaft will be pretty close to that of the ground down jlf shaft because the spring/actuator/e-clip assemble will still be roughly the same dimensions. And hence still require some grinding of the case bottom, the rib for sure and maybe even some further material removal past that although maybe not as much as I did in the tutorial.
Again this is just an educated guess and not observed fact, so my best guess would be youāll end up w/ a lower ball height, maybe some slightly wonky stick functionality as you may have to use the hori actuator and spring w/ the hori shaft whose mounting and functional dimensions differ slightly from the stock jlf parts, and in the end still require some case grinding although not as much hopefully.
I hope this in part answers your question at least in part. And again sorry for the misunderstanding, it was in no way meant to be a reflection of your reading/comprehension/stick knowledge.
I dont think there will be any definitive answer forthcoming except the very educated guess that No it will not be possible(they will not be offered as retail replacements, and at best maybe warranty claims only). I dont even think you can swap dongleās between 2 sticks but I could be wrong.
It would seem we both misunderstood each other. I mistook your comment about pictures for condescension; you simply misunderstood my question. My apologies to you as well.
Your second reply was on point in regards to my question. After further consideration, Iāve concluded that I pretty much need to stop being lazy, do the measurements, and come up with a solution for any clearance issues I may come upon. My mod will prioritize correct shaft height over baseplate clearance; if need be, Iāll cut a hole in the baseplate and simply use taller feet/bumpers. The only issue I see there would be that it would be a bit awkward for lap use.
Anyway, thanks for posting your mod, archalien; the walkthrough is insightful, the pics are useful, and I would have come upon the same height problem too, without your efforts to point it out. My apologies, again, for the misunderstanding.
Thanks for the response. Thatās my concern as well.
A possible option just came to mind while reading your reply, cut the required hole in the bottom of the base plate so it would otherwise mount normally, then use like 4 to 8 1/4" or 1/2" barrel shims to affix a piece of plexi cut to the same outline of the base plate aloowing the required clearance, or possible mill a piece of wood as a base extension the is screwed or glued to the base plate with access to the screw holes and battery bay. Just a thought.
Iāve recently had the same issue here during a local tournament over the weekend. I had been using the stick in a ps3, then left the usb connector in there while other people were using their own arcade sticks, and come back 10 or so minutes later and its no longer flashing and I get no response from the stick.
At first I thought it could have been due to dead batteries in the stick, but switching them made no difference.
Not cool, and sorry to hear. Have you already fixed it/replaced it?
went and bought the xbox360 t6 bundle. gonna dual wireless mod this sucka.
donno if Iāll get around to dual wireless modding the ps3 version unless I sell off the 360 version after I finish it.
Just letting it be known on this page. ;[
KrisJin or Dual Matrix or anyoen that needs a dongle, I have abroken T6 stick I was about to return. Already got my RMA, just have to ship it back to Amazon by December 3rd. If you want to send me your broken dongle and shipping cost (which is a dollar or 2 for USPS first class I think), I will send you back the working dongle from my stick.
You can swap dongles. I have 2 sticks and verified for myself. It just syncs up to whichever dongle is available and the lowest control number.
so i noticed the board under the buttons doesnāt really serve much purpose, would i be able to completely remove that, and just daisy chain the ground, use quick disconnects to the pcb?
If itās for the 360. You can throw away that useless pcb for the buttons - just use it as a reference for what button goes to what wire!
worked on the dual wireless mod for the 360 t6 version last night. It was a success. All I need to do now is replace the buttons and joystick and figure out where to fit the sixaxis and leo prototype board at.
Kinda surprised that this was even easier than I though. I would imagine the ps3 t6 stick should be a bit more challengingā¦soooo who wants me to dual mode their ps3 t6 stick?? Or will I have to sell off this one to buy the ps3 version.
guess people will want a guide too, huh? stay tuned!
P.S. anyone with a ps3 version, could you look at the battery compartment and see if there is a spot inside where a 4 header pin would plug into? I noticed it on the 360 version and I am very curious as to what it is for.