I’m no expert at these things, but It would seem to me that the chip on the PS3 board is the only thing that really does anything important, so if the Pin out for it could be figured out couldn’t the rest of the board essentially be cut away?
It is supposed to be huge. A computer screen displays at 72-100 dots per inch. A printed image has to be at least 300 dots per inch (DPI)
Usually in Photoshop you view things at 15-25%
From the looks of it the only thing I see on the PCB is a surface mount resistor. Thre rest just looks like copper paths. I’m sure if somebody took the time to map the pins out to the wireless module, you would have a tiny wireless PCB. All you would need to figure this out is to take a multimeter to the pins and to the spots to the microswitches. Is this common ground?
can some post a 360 template for art change if they make one?
yes it’s common ground. The only thing else besides the wireless module and the resistor is the capacitor. It wouldn’t be that difficult to hack off most of the board and wire up the buttons/joystick to it. At the very least, you can cut out the square spots that are under each button if you want to make room for sanwa buttons.
You can deffinetly use that template that Hunter-Zero just posted. Difference is not that big between Ps3 and 360 versions.
Im gonna try applying this to my stick Ill take photos to let you guys know how its goes
Nice design, looks beautiful!
I’m sorry to be asking of this, but could someone please post pics on how to replace the buttons with Sanwa’s for the ps3 stick? Cause I believe it is as easy as removing the button pcb for the 360 and replacing it with wires that run across to the controller pcb. But for the ps3 there is only one pcb so I can’t use the same method.
See the little tabs that the buttons were soldered to? Just cut off those tabs to make room for the sanwa buttons. Then wire up the sanwa buttons to where ever its traces end up at. Some of the buttons signal trace even have a little bit of exposed copper pad not too far from where the button’s pins were soldered.
Ohhh okay I get you thanks heaps. Sorry again but I got another two things to ask . What do you believe is the best method to cut these tabs off and when I do all these steps, how can I keep the PCB in place? Cause I think it was the buttons soldered on the tabs that held it all together.
use a dremel to cut the tabs.
as far as keeping it in place, you’ll have to get creative.
I don’t think you really have to worry so much about it moving around. There’s not much space inside to begine with and the back is a non conductive material.
Still looking for a stock t6 HORI shaft cover, if anyone wouldn’t mind parting with it… D;
Just finished my mod today for my stick here it goes:
I got the impression from a previous post that for some reason it’s not a good idea to try using the stock Hori shaft in a JLF (for correct height). Could someone explain why? Is it just because it’s difficult or problematic to install? Or would there be functionality issues? I want to do this mod to my T6 stik and I liked archalien’s mod, but I don’t want my stick to be at an incorrect height. Any thoughts?
The height issue is as follows: in order to mount the jlf in the stock t6 case I mount it VERY close to the top panel, by using the non stock shaft, the height of the stick(ball) is closer to the stock height(distance of ball top from top of panel). What it doesnt get you is this, the fulcrum/pivot point of the stick is too high, normally the pivot point is say 5/8" below the top of the panel (made up numbers for purpose of illustration), with my mod this point is only 1/4" from the top of the panel(where your hand sits). This is a small but noticeable change in stick functionality and performance and a deviance from the stock mounting/arcade mounting height.
I hope this helps, if not Ill have to result to pictures…
I understand perfectly what you posted (I do read books without pictures), but you didn’t answer my question. I asked whether or not it was a bad idea to use the stock shaft in the JLF mod. I asked this because I want to otherwise duplicate your mod, and I was hoping that using the Hori shaft would perhaps solve the issue of the added height. I suppose I could resort (I believe that was the word you meant to use) to pictures, too, but I won’t patronize *you *…
Have any of you had any problems with your usb connector shorting out or not turning the light on? I just plugged a TE into a PS3 and my friend’s stick just stopped working. Any idea what’s up?
It appears as though the PS3 bundle with stick is going to be on super sale today:
Might be a good time to pick up an extra if you want to experiment with modding. Don’t know if there’s a per customer limit or not.