Getting the Kuro to fit has been a bit of a bitch for me to fit, ATM.
~Tried to but it in my HRAP SE, but it uses an uncommon ground stick (i forgot)
~I tried to but it in my Hori Soul Caliber stick, but the 5-pin connector wont allow it to fit (i’m not cutting the case to fit it)
~Tried to put it in my VLX, but I stripped the last farking JLF mounting bolt (damn excessive use of Loctite on small screws)
Finally I got it mounted in my single player panel HSS-0130, but I have to re-wire my joystick terminal block since I can only get it to fit in the non-stock orientation. I can’t WAIT to finally test this stick out!!
Did you mean to say Haybusa instead of Kuro here? Kuro is the button, Hayabusa is the joystick.
-Which HRAP SE are you talking about?
-Do you mean the Hori Soul Calibur 5 stick? If so, it fits just fine with no case modifications. Flip the 5pin connector over if it isn’t fitting. I have mine in an SCV right now.
-Why didn’t you use the plate mounting screws from the Hayabusa itself?
Yeah, I meant Haybusa.
I’m using the first gen HRAP SE (white case/shiny black panel).
Yeah, i’m using the Hori Soul Calibur 5 stick. What do you mean flip the 5-pin connector? Won’t it still not fit through the plastic underneath the metal panel, unless I Dremel it out?
I was/am using the mounting plate of the Hayabusa. There was no reason to remove it. I just stripped a screw that I had to remove in order to get the JLF out of the VLX (I’ll just cut a slot in it and remove it with a flat head).
All of my problems are kinda minor, I was just trying to throw it into something quickly before I left for the weekend. I’ll be playing it when I get back.
@NotANoob81 - The Busa fits perfectly in a Hori SCV stick or any of the N series RAP’s (DOA5, TTT2, Gundam, etc). The 5 pin plugs in with the clip part going away from the top panel. It just clears that piece of plastic that surrounds the joystick mounting area. No need to dremel.
I myself have yet to order my Hayabusa and Kuros just because the CAD-USD exchange rate sucks. I’d also have to get it shipped to my cousin, who’d then in turn ship it out to me.
On a side note, would anyone who received the stickers be able to scan them in hi-resolution for me? Specifically the large Hayabusa and Kuro ones with the large kanji on it.
So it’s been a while and I have been trying to figure out why my @Moonchilde lever mod won’t work. I have narrowed it down to something in the actual switch being constructed with some minor dimensional flaws. The switches work okay without the lever and I think that is because there is enough wiggle room for you not to notice, but when the lever is right up against the actuator you notice it not disengaging. (if you dont know what I am talking about, scroll up to my previous posts)
I bought some short lever Omrons which went in to the Hayabusa flawless and there are no issues. (they worked fine at first until I noticed one of the connectors got bent. I opened up the switch and it actually crushed down the contact points within the switch so it couldn’t engage and disengage properly. I believe this may be due to the wires conencted to the PCB getting pulled around if you aren’t careful. I dremeled out the side of the housing and am going to just use the standard JLF harness that comes with the silent jlf (Or the focus attack harness) this should fix the issues on the new switches so they don’t get bent.
If you are interested in softer than JLF Omrons with levers see here:
I can’t remember the force and all that technical stuff, but basically this switch almost IDENTICAL to a OG Cherry switch found in old school Happs (not e-switch new garbage)
I actually prefer this feel to the @Moonchilde mod because the switches are softer than the matsushita’s
Another cool thing is you don’t need to dremel the inside posts like with the Matsushitas (you will however have to dremel the outside of the Hayabusa unless you de-solder the original switches and use the PCB that the hayabusa comes with.
I hope this helps anyone who was curious about some different style Omrons to put in the Hayabusa (or JLF\ls-56\etc for that matter)
can anyone help me figure out which pins are what on the harness connector???
starting from the top down as shown in my pic… which is up, down, left, right and ground??
thanks very much!
Those are the same exact switches minus the lever that I linked to a page ago. I would recommend the other ones with the levers instead of these, unless you simply want identical Omron switch replacements.
What do you mean? Tight fit or tight control? IMO you’d be better with a PAS JLF spring over a 55 spring, only reason I’m using a 55 is because it fit and was more tense than the stock spring. It’s also longer so the coils are going to compress against each other as the stick moves, which isn’t ideal since you want the tension but not the friction. It also happened to be a perfect fit for the spring flange…
Any spring that can fit will technically work.
A customized, higher tension JLF-spec spring would be better, though, than using a Seimitsu spring or screwing springs together. Screwing similarly-sized springs together – especially if they’re the same make – is bound to get very high tension… more than most people want. I’ve screwed together two JLF springs and two LS-32 springs and installed them in their respective joysticks. Didn’t like the results of those experiments!
It’s more sure that a customized 2-lb spring or 3-lb JLF spring will get you the tension you want.
The stock Hayabusa spring is a JLF clone-spring (same tension as the JLF production spring) so the JLF’s customs are the ones that will fit the Hayabusa shaft and spring retainers better. Right now, Paradise Arcade Shop owns the market on custom-tension springs (for JLF, LS-56/-58 and eventually LS-32)… nobody else in the US seems to be making or stocking those.
I’ve never found absolute consistency amongst joysticks threading/screwing springs together… Higher-tension single replacement spring is bound to be more consistent
The individual stock springs seem to change on a production lot basis and you can never be sure that Seimitsu or Sanwa quality control is working in the factories that produce these springs…
FYI – Again, I used a whole LS-32 spring the Hayabusa spring threaded inside of it. It feels about the same tension installed in the Hayabusa as the LS-32 spring-and-a-half combo (one intact LS-32 spring + half another LS-32 spring) I use in my LS-32’s and LS-40’s. It’s not a great increase over stock tension but it’s still noticeable.
The LS-32 springs will work with the Hayabusa though I wouldn’t use the LS-32 spring by itself unless it’s a higher-tension customized variant (which no parts vendor has yet)… Stay away from Zippyy (LS-32 clone) springs, though. They’re softer springs than stock LS-32 springs.
how could I get the hayabusa to the uk without it costing limbs? and does anyone know how it fits in a hori v3 sa. I’m currently using an ls-32-01 and loving it all up but i’d like to try out this stick, how does it fair against the ls-32’s tension? < too many questions I know x_x but i’d really appreciate the halp!
Anyone know the type of screws the 'busa uses? I drilled holes into a JLF gate so I could pop on a circle gate and it fits perfectly… except for the screws which are just a bit too short thanks to the added thickness of the new gate.
