Thanks for that confirmation. This is exactly what I been pondering since the release of the FE. Didn’t see why this couldn’t work. Now nothing will hold me back from ordering one of these.
The screws holes are 1/8". If you search your local hardware store, you should be able to find a pan head screw of the same thickness and just a few mm longer.
Thanks for the screw size. Though… I actually got impatient and just drilled half way through with a 1/4" bit. Left the original hole in place but with a new recessed space. Don’t know how the circle gate feels on the stick yet, but I’m eager to test it out soon.
EDIT: Also, I’m an idiot. I used a 1/8" bit to make the holes and they fit perfectly… that probably should have told me what size the screw was…
Hmmm…would this fit in a Qanba Q4?
Yes.
It figures that the old Tekken 5 JLF gate mod would work! That was how you could attach the JLF to the original Hori mounting plate on that joystick without doing some serious faceplate drilling… Every hole on the Hayabusa seems to be a match-up for the same position on the JLF’s base!
Hey, if it works, it works! Another mod possibility confirmed for the Hayabusa.
I can’t imagine, though, that Hori thought people would be modding the Hayabusa like this, either…
Personally, I’m fine with the original square gate. The joystick has been nothing but ultra-comfortable for me most of the time. Best near-stock joystick I’ve ever played with!
Sorry, can’t help there. International shipping is a pain-in-the-butt for anyone who has dealt with it.
They’re doing a Canadian Hayabusa sales interest thread elsewhere on the Tech Talk forum. You might be able to make a deal on shipping from someone there…
Hori’s being very careful with the Hayabusa release. They just started selling the part separate from the Fighting Edge late last-month. Hori’s very cautious with its hardware releases in general. They general do NOT over-manufacture gear. Hayabusa’s new territory for the company and something of an unknown to them.
I bet that Hori WILL eventually sell the joystick handle on its own in Europe, though. You might have to wait for a joystick release on the PS4, though. I sort of doubt Hori is prepared to sell the Hayabusa direct to parts vendors. Hori has been handling Hayabusa sales direct from its home office in Japan… I don’t know that I’d call the company a “mom and pop” operation but it definitely does not seem like a huge company, either
As for the HRAP V3 SA – the Hayabusa installs exactly like a JLF. 'Nuff said!
Tension compared to the LS-32… Stock Hayabusa has tension more like the JLF, slightly less than the LS-32. I always mod my joysticks a little bit because I’ve never been happy with the stock spring tension in Japanese joysticks. Hayabusa joysticks are compatible with JLF and LS-32 spring mods. You can mix the springs together for somewhat higher tension or buy higher-tension JLF replacment springs. Unfortunately, I think in the UK and Europe you’re limited to Seimitsu/Sanwa parts in-stock or have to order replacement higher-tension springs internationally. There’s really only one American vendor (Paradise Arcade Shop) I’m aware of doing custom replacement springs unless other shops/parts sellers are buying the higher-tension springs from those guys.
Thinking of doing an actuator replacement on the Hori stick with this:
Anyone have any experience with this particular product?
That’s pretty neat, are you sure the Hayabusa can’t mount up to a Tekken 5 the same way then? If every hole’s in the same place you’d just need to drill and screw nearly the same way, I’d imagine.
I tried it. I believe the actuator is a hair to tall and barely rubs on the square gate. You could sand it down if you wanted though.
The Hayabusa actuator is already .5mm bigger than the stock jlf actuator though.
double post =(
I tried 1mm and found it too large. The engage is already very fast. If you are feeling uncomfortable it may be the throw that you don’t like which will not be modified at all with that actuator. You could try @Moonchilde 's No-Throw Actuator Mod.
There is a number of reasons I would not use that actuator.
1: the actuator is made of ABS, not the best plastic to use in this situation of constant friction. Ever known ABS to stand up to abuse?
2: The shape is not bell shaped which means it is going to hit the switch high and not evenly which changes the angle it hits the switch, so you don’t know exactly how much change you’re making to the engage in mm.
3: The over sized top will adjust the throw as well so if that isn’t what you want then you should not get this. Plus, throw should be modded by the gate and not the actuator. I’m only using a spacer mod because I do not have a gate mod yet.
Personally, I would use an actuator made from better material and utilizing the same shape as the stock one. Then, it’s easier to decide what kind of mods you want. If you want quicker engage then you’d want a larger bell portion, which is what Paradise’s will do if you get the 1 mm oversized actuator. The good thing about PA’s actuator is that it has the same shape so you’re adjusting the function of the stick by exactly .5 mm (.5 because Hayabusa’s actuator is already .5 larger than JLF’s) and not .75 because it hits the switch at a different angle.
Lever mod IMO is better than over sized actuator because you’ll get those accurate diagonals levers give you.
I’d like to think they made it easy for us and would approve. Cause it was seriously easy, just 8 passes with a drill. I’d still buy or kickstart a custom made circle gate to get back that nice enclosed look it had.
I kinda want to try putting in a SparkCE to make an optical Hayabusa but at that point there wouldn’t be much 'busa left but the pivot and the shaft… and at some point I’m putting in a Link.
I have a Link in one of my Hayabusa’s. It works great.
I agree with @Moonchilde. The Kowal actuators are inferior because they don’t maintain the shape of the original actuator. The lever mod should work much better than changing actuators and the actuator that comes with the 'Busa is just so damn nice. Even nicer than other delrin actuators. It’s harder, better, faster, and stronger.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a189/gumbyslide/Stronger.gif
Will a JLF PCB fit? This would be good for me to know.
The JLF has 2mm larger range of engage than the LS-56 but my LS-56 no throw mod works on Hayabusa exactly which leads me to believe it’s the same engage as LS-56 or damn near close. So, with the actuator being .5 mm larger and me adding the levers, that means I’ve shortened the throw on the Hayabusa by .5 mm.
JLF = 6 mm engage / 8 mm throw
LS-56 = 4 mm engage / 7.5 mm throw
Hayabusa no levers = 4.5 mm engage / 7.5 mm throw
Hayabusa with levers = 4 mm engage / 7.5 mm throw
Hayabusa with levers and no throw mod = 4 mm engage / 5.5-ish mm throw
But, if the Hayabusa has an actuator that is .5 larger than JLF then that means a Hayabusa actuator in a JLF would be 5.5 mm engage. If you tossed on levers it would be 5 mm. So there is still a 1 mm difference.
This concerns me for PCB compatibility because the switch placement would have to be 1 mm different which means it might not fit. Could someone please try this?
I kind of figured this would work. No reason for it not to, really. Unfortunately for me, this mod isn’t capable of giving me the one thing I would want from a gate. That one thing is a short throw square option. This opens the Hayabusa to octagon and circle gates though and that’s a good thing. It would be nice to have a gate that you didn’t have to unscrew every time you wanted to change inserts though.
Wow, that’s exactly what I want from the Hayabusa; accurate diagonals. Unfortunately your mod is beyond my abilities 
Going to try the stock JLF actuator on the Hayabusa to see if that changes anything…
Stock JLF actuator is .5mm smaller than JLF. I’m not sure how that can help diagonals.
So I took the plunge and ordered a hayabusa. May god have mercy on my soul.
I’ve been having the same issue. Also, I think the Delrin makes the stick much louder when hitting the gate (read: plays lots of Boxer), so I can’t really use it at night.
I’m tempted to try out some mods to hit those corners more easily and maybe make it a little quieter. I could use cherries and hack up a PAS harness I’ve got.
I’ve also wanted to try and fit a Spark for the fun of it.