my microwave door uses omrons. true story.
Stupid question, but if I had a stick custom built to use a JLF (the mounting bracket looks to be routed into the control board), could I swap a hayabusa into it? I have a FE and LOVE this stick. If not, I’ll just get another foe hammer case made to fit the hayabusa.
Hey deaded by panda, can you post a pic? The Hayabusa mounts the same as a JLF but the plate is a different shape. If this is a custom case we probably need to see pics to determine what needs to be done.
yeah I was going to say type, need pics plz 
Looking for some. If I remember correctly, it mounts from the top.
So I got mine in finally! 
the only thing is I have a Foehammer stealth case and it doesn’t fit into the mount D: anyway to make this work or do I need to modify the case?
If you have a JLF mounting plate you can swap it with the Hayabusa plate.
@iNENDOi the actual casing of the hayabusa is too large to fit through the slot so I dont think that will quite work…
I just received this email from Hori UK. Sorry, fellow Europeans:
"Dear alainvey,
Thank you for your interest in HORI products.
We currently have no information regarding this product.
But be sure to check our website to keep up to date on our latest Products.
Regards,
The HORI UK Team"
Thanks for nothing, Hori!
@moonchilde \ others Just wanted to let you know I finished up your mod on my hayabusa and it feels a lot better than stock. 1 weird issue i found though was before i put the gate back on everything feels great and fine, but when i screw down the gate i have to move the switches to align them with the gate screws. now for some reason one of the switches doesnt disengage unless i pull the stick back to dead center. the other 3 switches have a slight bigger area where the switch disengages. to fixx this i swapped out the actuator with a injustice actuator (jlf clone) because its normal jlf size and someone said the hayabusa is .5mm bigger than jlf. other than that it feels great. i will throw it in a madcatz tomorrow and play test it. any thoughts on the stock hayabusa actuator disengage question?
thanks in advance.
seth
I had a similar issue when I first did the lever mod. My problem was the mechanical parts of the switch weren’t seated 100% proper when I closed up the casing after swapping the insides. You don’t even need to swap the insides and it would still be possible something may have unseated slightly. Try taking apart the switch that is giving you a problem and checking everything is seated, even re-seat it if you must, then put the lever back in and close up the switch. Once I did that everything was fine and the switch that wasn’t disengaging when returning to neutral was working 100% again.
thanks breh! cant wait to try it in a stick. i know its gonna make me 999999999pp!!! =)
I didn’t have any issues like that.
In all likelihood, YES, but you need to provide pictures!
Spec points –
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The Hayabusa stack is as tall as the JLF… As long your JLF has decent vertical clearance inside the case, the Hayabusa should be fine.
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The Hayabusa body is about as bulky as the LS-32 or LS-40… Probably not an issue but you might want to do some measuring. * Generally speaking *, those LS-joysticks will fit fine into the area of most JLF installations but do yourself a favor and double-check!
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The Hayabusa Mounting Plate DOES screw into JLF installation points – same mounting points, same size holes, same distances between screw points, etc. – BUT the Hayabusa Mounting Plate is wider than the JLF’s TP-1 Mounting Plate because of the bulkier (more LS-32-like) Hayabusa base.
I already found that in one older-style joystick case I own that the H-stick Mounting Plate could be an issue itself with installations. The good news is that if the rest of the H-stick is not a problem, you could go ahead and swap the Hayabusa’s stock mounting plate with the JLF’s TP-1 Mounting Plate! The TP-1 and Hayabusa Mounting Plate are interchangeable. I would tell you to still use the Hayabusa Mounting Plate screws, however… The Sanwa TP-1 Mounting Plate screws have a reputation for being easily stripped!
Stick is nice. No deadzone and noticeably smoother is a big plus, but I definitely have trouble hitting diagonals compared to the JLF. I actually tested in (KOF XIII) training mode, certain motions which were muscle memory were not registering as diagonals as they would on a Sanwa, this is without gate riding btw. Supers and fireballs motions would skip diagonals (register as d,f instead of d, d/f,f).
Switched the stock spring for something a little tighter.
Tighter tension is usually not a bad idea for Japanese sticks…
The spring tension is the only thing I modded on my Hayabusa. I just slipped the stock spring into an LS-32 spring and got a slightly tighter feel. I’m keeping that postnote in mind for future Hayabusa purchases… That’s the only thing I think I’d change on this stick.
I approach buying parts for joysticks from the standpoints of A) versatility and B) cost. Much as I like playing some of today’s fighting games my favorites are really from the mid-1990s which tend to be faster-paced. I also like to occasionally play Pac-Man and Donkey Kong, too! The LS-joysticks are still nice hardware but they all have shortcomings. I still like them much better than the JLF but obviously I would not have bought a Hayabusa if I weren’t in the market for something a bit better.
Hayabusa, so far, hasn’t disappointed me. It pleasantly surprised me! Oh, and it does nicely on Point B, too… I was never going to spend large amounts of money on after-market parts to customize the thing (aside from shaft and balltop color changing) and it’s nice to see that actuator and switch mods weren’t necessary (for me), either!
Diagonals have not been an issue at all with me on this joystick.
I thought they would have been coming from the levered microswitch side of the LS-joysticks but apparently not! I was under the impression that levered switches acted faster and were better but that’s obviously not the case if you design the joystick base and shaft actuator well!
At least if you wanted to mod the base or do switch mods that’s not overly complicated, either.
Unless they really get bothered by it, I can’t imagine most people who buy this joystick would bother with much more than the spring mod…
@inendoi did your gate screws go right in in the switch or did you have to push the switches in slightly from the outsite or wiggle the screw in to align it? I Wonder if it is just something weird with my actual stick (minor mistake or something in mass production) ?
Sometimes the screws go a little tight into the switch’s mounting holes. You have to do a bit more man-handling then and hold the gate down firm while you screw in.
@tastylumpia You’re probably used to the large range of motion you have to do on a JLF. I’d recommend (I know others don’t, but…) riding the gate. The gate is there to be used as a tool to know exactly which direction your stick is in. Otherwise, there is no point to a gate and the sticks would be designed K-stick style with nothing restricting the range of the lever and giving you that circle feeling.
@sethian0 - I have had to wiggle the screws in on a few occasions, yes. I did the same as @Moonchilde explained above when it happens.