GRINS
Yeah the dremel doesn’t scare me =) If I can take a dremel to brand new suzo inductive with custom shaft, I can definitely gut the fuck out of a Hayabusa =)
I’m getting questions about it but don’t have one.
Can anyone confirm real quick if the Link works in this thing? I’ll get one eventually, I remember trying it out at Season’s Beatings a while ago and really digging the feel, glad they are selling them out of the FE’s.
Another question that I feel needs to be asked (asked in the other Hayabusa+Kuro thread):
Can the Hayabusa be mounted the same way one would mount a JLF on a Sega candy cab panel (ie, something like this: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v325/Francoberasi/HOT2005Dims.jpg); that is, without using the standard mounting plate holes? The JLF body has those two “tabs” sticking out on either side that’s used to mount; do those holes exist on a Hayabusa?
@Phreakazoid - I installed a Link in mine just to test it before putting it back in the JLF it was in. The shaft is the same dims as the JLF. It works.
@FreedoomGundam - I’m at work so I can’t check right now. If nobody beats me to it I’ll check when I get home.
@iNENDOi
Thanks. I just noticed that it was already mentioned last page, but haven’t seen any full confirmation from any members here:
Oh, thats right. I forgot that was mentioned.
Hayabusa has the same holes, so yes.
Wow… mounting holes are completely the same down to the plateless mount? Kudos to you hori, kudos to you.
Honestly so much win comes out of having similarities to the JLF build: actuators, shaft covers, extended/ hollow shafts, mounting, springs… and then ups the ante with the modern build and parts. Honestly I feel like they’re just taking it to sanwa and saying “F**k the JLF, we’ll make a joystick and we’ll make like yours but 10x better!”
Now all I really want to see is some gates. That would make this probably the only stick I’d buy unless the LS-60 proves to be too OP upon release.
That’s exactly what it’s like. They did a hell of a job too.
If we can have LS-56 gates I don’t see why we can’t have Busa gates. Do you see this happening in the near future @Moonchilde? IMO it’s not necessary but would be cool. That no throw mod of Moon’s really works. The switches activate at pretty much the same time that the actuator hits the gate. There are also gate hater actuators from PAS that will make the throw bigger if that’s your thing. To me it’s just right. The only mod I left on it was a 2lb spring. I just like my shafts stiffer. LoL.
Based on Seimitsu’s track record for resisting change i wouldn’t expect much from LS-60’s. We will see though. If it’s a silent LS-58 I might consider picking one up. I’m more eager for that shallow lever and “Project Magenta” from PAS atm.
Good to hear.
I recently acquired a Sega candy cab panels that only takes JLF-style mounts, but I’ve stopped using JLFs in favor of LS-32s. I think Hayabusas will do nicely in that spot.
It’s possible and will be easy to do. I just need to cook up a design for it, if that’s possible.
@DarkSakul just got an email today that todaycomponents.com can’t supply the D3V switches so they voided my order. 
Anyway, just get the V-16 model I linked to if you really want it, the ONLY difference is the black pin plunger and a rivet that goes through the housing to keep the switch together. Otherwise it’s the same, same housing shape, same 4 mm lever, no loss really.
On the other hand, I’m glad, because they were committing anal rape with their shipping costs and it seemed a waste once I saw after putting in the order that the levers were still the 4 mm variant that wouldn’t fit the switches already in Hayabusa.
Well as long as it works out I guess.
Shipping is something I usually look at when I do small orders.
I didn’t think $5 was so bad for the Hayabusa all by itself in all honest…
$10 for 4 microswitches is a bit steep, though! Better make that order at least 12-20 microswitches. Even good microswitches for a JLF or LS-joystick shouldn’t cost more than $2 each tops! I don’t see why the shipping couldn’t have been lower – $7 or less.
And as for soldering new microswitches in the Hayabusa…
I think it’d almost be easier just to retrofit the existing H-base adapter to use 0.187 quick disconnects. I’d just re-use the original wiring if there’s enough of it for 0.187-tabs. I was able to save the original wiring on an old Agetec joystick and refit it with 0.110-size quick disconnects to use Sanwa buttons AND keep the original button harness attached to the Agetec/Sega PCB. I had to be stingy on what I cut from the Agetec wiring insulation and there was just barely enough for that mod. Of course, using the 0.187 QD’s might be problematic given the limited space in the Hayabusa base. Moonchilde still had to cut away a little of the base to make room for the LS-56 levered switches and that’s nowhere near as involved as what I’m suggesting.
It just comes down to a convenience issue… I really wouldn’t want to be finagling/tweaking too much with the H-stick. One key point for me in buying the thing was having to avoid doing crazy JLF-like mods and keeping any tweaks minor while still having a joystick that performed at least as well as the LS-32 or the LS-40 (and hopefully more reliably over a period of time, too!). The LS-56 lever mod is easy. I tried taking apart micros on my one faltering Zippy joystick ( => the one I’m committed to swapping out the existing micro’s on; they’re just lousy-soft and unuseable for fighting games; the other Zippy’s micros are fine, though!) and I was amazed how easy the covers come off on the microswitch casing. I have doubts, though, as to whether you’d be able to swap the inside parts of a bunch of microswitches that easily, though. Swapping insides is more likely within one manufacturer’s line of switches versus swapping parts between Omron’s and Panasonic microswitches. It was happy providence that the H-stick micro’s used the same case molding as the LS-56 microswitches Moonchilde swapped the insides for.
I might as well ask this here…
WHY do some microswitches have three terminal positions on the outside?
I understand having terminals for ground wire and directional signals but why a third terminal???
To be used as a kill switch. There is normally open and normally closed. For our purposes we use normally open and when we press the button it closes the circuit making the connection. When using normally closed, the circuit is always made, so when you press the button, it opens it and kills the circuit. This would be useful in a guitar with a kill switch (which is just a button) to cut the sound in and out like Buckethead does. It’s actually a pretty cool feature, but, worthless to our causes in the arcade scene. They’re simply more common in this configuration and makes the switch more flexible for its usage.
Anyway, the cancellation of the order saved me some $$ so I guess I’m not all that disappointed. They were just switches, and yeah, $9.95 was anal rape. Should be $4 or $5 at the most, they weigh barely anything and if it was going to be $9.95 it had better be super fast ass turbo shipping. I’m not disappointed.
What I am disappointed about is access to levers. Why is it so hard to find some?
Are you referring to COM, NC and NO? COM is GND, NC is Normally Closed and NO is Normally Open. In some cases, you want the connection all of the time unless a button press interrupts it. Not for button/stick use though. 
Nice info to know!
Goes back into my mind – "the design is the way it is because it saves them some money in other applications!"
In other words, it’s good enough as-is, and we don’t have to reinvent the wheel for the next automobile!
Micro switches we used for joysticks where never intended for joysticks.
Like what Moonchilde said, often a Microswitch is used as kill/stop switch on industrial machinery.
Microswitches have over a thousand uses and arcade parts is only 1 use.
There are arcade controllers that do use all 3 terminals, like when you want a button to light up as you hit it.
But this is more common in slot machines, which the bulk of Happ’s business is resting in now.
Sorry for the off topic:
I used both functions of such a switch once, for an adapter that’d let me use a single player arcade panel to play as either P1, P2 or both simultaneously. The switch controlled which Player’s start button got connected to GND. NC had the GND going into P1 start meaning that if I pressed P1 start, it was functional, but P2 wasn’t. Holding the switch would change it to NO, and the GND would go into P2 start instead. Both player control inputs were routed from the JAMMA to P1’s control outputs.
Carry on.
Got my stick yesterday but haven’t played that much on it yet. So far I like it.
It sure is sexy looking in all it’s blackness.
Functionality wise, the best thing I like about the stick is that, unlike most LS sticks, I can fit it in just about any of my current sticks. Also the mod-ability of the stick is very high – even though I’m quite ok with the way it is stock.