LOL, well let me rephrase, how easily can you take advantage of parts of the Hayabusa’s design to mount it in place of the stock Hori lever in the Tekken 5? The JLF you could drill through certain points and use the stock mounting holes.
Any holes drilled for JLF will work with Hayabusa. 
I’m specifically talking about mounts made only for Hori crappy levers where it’s possible, due to some parts being in the right places, to mount a JLF without a mounting plate.
That’s what I’m saying. It’s already been confirmed in the thread Hayabusa has the same mounting holes built into the body as a JLF to mount without using a mounting plate. If you can mount a JLF in it, you can mount a Hayabusa.
That’s not what he means…
The Tekken 5 (American) joystick as built will NOT mount a JLF unless you drill holes through specific areas in the restrictor gate of the JLF. THEN you can use the longer screws that held the original OEM Hori joystick part (piece of crap!) to actually hold the JLF sans TP-1 Mounting Plate on the same crummy Hori joystick mounting bracket under the T5 faceplate. There are no common screw areas on the bottom of the Hayabusa and the Hayabusa does not have the coincidental screw threading area that the JLF does that allows the JLF to be used with an unmodded T5 faceplate – with the TP-1 removed, of course! The T5 JLF base mod will not work with the Hayabusa, period…
I HATED that T5 mounting bracket! I drilled it out of several T5 faceplates and installed flush rivets in a pre-measured layout so that I could hang any LS-series joystick OR the JLF (with the TP-1 screwed on) onto the faceplate. The JLF worked better this way, too. The stock Hori mounting bracket prevented useage of the second dustcover on the JLF. The shaft hole opening on the T5 faceplate also tended to scratch the JLF shaftcover, too. I widened the shaft hole on my T5 faceplate mods.
No, if you want to use the Hayabusa with a T5 joystick base you have to remove the Hori mounting bracket under the faceplate first. Surest way to remove the Hori bracket is to drill through the center of the welds. It leaves some ugly drill holes behind but I don’t know any other sure way to remove the bracket. You do end up using a flathead screwdriver to “rock” the bracket a bit to break through the remainder of the weld. The danger of doing this mod with or without drill holes is bending the faceplate… It’s not the strongest metal in the world.
[Yeah, there are people who have claimed to have taken the Hori mounting bracket off by just “rocking it” with a flathead screwdriver. If the weld’s weak/poorly done in the first place, that MIGHT work. I drilled through my welds to be sure that the bracket would come off! You’re looking at making at least EIGHT new small holes in the faceplate to accommodate an alternate joystick or to be able to the TP-1 on the T5 faceplate…]
Using a TP-1 or Hayabusa Mounting Plate, you then orient and center it over the shaft hole opening on the T5 faceplate and mark your drill points for mounting screws. (Remember, standard JLF mounts WILL work with a Hayabusa mounting plate since it has common mounts.) I used flush rivet screws in my T5 faceplate mounts because they enabled me to put artwork and plexis over the custom mods. Other screws have heads that protude too high and can create issues for art and plexis…
I think it’s better to mount joystick with mounting plates installed at any rate. You can adjust joystick levels up and down with washers between the faceplate and mounting plate as you wish for comfort. The flush rivet “universal” mount mod is the only way I’ve been able to use secondary dustcovers with the JLF, LS-32, or LS-40 on HRAP-lite joysticks (Arcana Heart 2, Tekken 5). You still have to do the mod for the T5 joystick in order to use the Hayabusa but the Hayabusa should mount fine on the Arcana Heart 2 joystick without the faceplate mod… the AH2 joystick has a “non-universal” mounting bracket that’s the same as the HRAP 3 (vanilla; not the SA or SE models of the HRAP 3 that have universal JLF/LS-series mounting brackets).
I did a visual test-fit check on an HRAP 3 (white version) and the Hayabusa should install fine onto it (HRAP 3 and AH2 joysticks) with the H-mounting plate screwed on…
Well. After doing some research I think I found a site that sells the levers needed for this mod.
@Moonchilde , I have tried swapping in levers in to some switches and even though they appear similar some don’t fit (because of the hooks in the levers that sit in the switch)
Can you verify (or try) that one of these will work.
These looks to have the same lever shape
http://www.wellgainelectronics.com/highlyvs10n01.aspx
I did some poking around and I believe the Matsushita’s use a 13.5MM lever which this one is, but it appears to have a slightly different shape.
http://www.wellgainelectronics.com/oemmicroswitchwith135mmleverspdt3a250vac.aspx
You speak so highly of this set up /w the lever mod I want to try it out and see now and see what the difference is between stock Hayabusa, and levered.
Let me know,
Thanks!
@sethian0 The measurements on the levers are 5 mm wide by 17.5 mm long. 18 mm long would be fine, though. The hooks are, from hook end to hook end, 7.5 mm.
Most other switch levers like Omron or Zippy are only going to be 4 mm wide and have shorter hooks, so they will be too floppy in the Matsushita case. Hope this helps.
The page you linked looks to be the switch and lever and not just the lever by itself. I’m wondering why is it so hard for us to find levers, if that’s all we want they have to be available somewhere? You know, I wonder if we can source someone in the FGC to make levers? Maybe Jasen Hicks could, since he has access to custom metal manufacturing.
I just ended up buying another ls-56 for the switches haha. going to give the hayabusa a go with your mod. who knows, maybe its a new combo that will fit me since it sounds like its somewhere in the middle of a ls-56 and a jlf.
i didnt have extreme feelings for the hayabusa (stock) either way good or bad, so we’ll see what these levers do. will report back.
Awesome. Don’t forget that you will have to Dremel some cuts on the body of the Hayabusa to accommodate the hinges of the levers. It’s a really simple mod, this is the bit I used which cut away the plastic nicely without making too much of a mess.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/34563876/Images/r19739v15.jpg
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=115
You could also fit that LS-56 with some Omron switches if you want. Then you’d have another stick to use or turn around and sell. Or, you could get some Omron switches and desolder the switches in Hayabusa and solder on the new ones, but soldering is such a pain in the ass… still, it’s a relatively simple soldering job.
thanks to this thread i went ahead and bought 2 hayabusas, should be here tomorrow. i’ll keep one stock and the other to mod. now just gotta order an ls-56 and springs to mess with.
In my view, it doesn’t make any sense to order the LS-56 if what you need are just the microswitches.
I have enough spare buttons I’m not using as it is… I don’t want to add joystick assemblies and cast-offs to that!
The spring mod itself isn’t something set in stone, either.
It’s whatever is comfortable for you… It can be any of the higher-tension LS and JLF springs PAS sells, an LS-series spring by itself provided it fits the Hayabusa shaft, or a combo mod like I did with mine.
I was fine with the Hayabusa after only a slight spring tension tweak. It’s not much different than the tension for the LS-32’s I use.
Yeah, I wouldn’t buy an LS-56 (0.187-tab version, you don’t want the PCB -01 model) just for the microswitches. The switches by themselves should be less than $8! It’s just too bad that nobody seems to carry the LS-56 style microswitches in-stock (by themselves) anywhere that I’ve checked… [Note: you COULD order the microswitches from Akihabarashop.jp but it’s not worth it ordering there unless you have a decent size order to begin because of international shipping charges and insurance. It’s something I might do if I had some things to buy from them that I can’t get elsewhere now…]
I can imagine some stores probably don’t want to deal with selling micros by themselves because of the potential for damage of such small parts in-shipping and also because of the fact that some of us are just klutzes with equipment and small parts. (There’s page after page of stories of REALLY stupid things done by SRK members who should have known better but just don’t have mechanical skills and common sense I’m afraid to say…) Who wants to deal with returns on this crap???
Nice to see that the Dremel head piece needed for the mod isn’t something out-of-the-ordinary and super-rare. I can probably buy that cutting piece in a local hardware store. Shipping’s one of the thing that still makes store-buys of some things cheaper!
Actually, you don’t need to buy a new stick. Just buy a replacement PCB. You don’t need the whole switch, just the internals and the levers. Googles Ok well too bad no one sells those, either. I’m starting to think it would simply be easier for people to buy commonly available Omron switches and solder them in. Again, the soldering job is super easy to do, it’s just that if you have a spare LS-56 you plan to retire, you could cannibalize the parts from it easier.
The Dremel part is like, $4 or so. It’s not expensive at all. Plus it’s handy for other uses.
Do you know if the LS-58 uses the same microswitches as the LS-56?
I would imagine that it does…
That’s another possible source for spare parts.
(I don’t want to do that personally… I’m thinking of selling the LS-58 and an intact joystick is an easier sell! LOL)
It would be nice if someone knew what the part number was the comparable/compatible Omron switch for the LS-56 if it even exists… I’m beginning to think that Matsushita/Panasonic is the sole provider for this microswitch. I don’t know that there are existing clones out there.
According to this listing on arcadeshop.de, http://www.arcadeshop.de/Microswitches-Joystick-Switch-short-PEW_1062.html , the LS-33, LS-55, and LS-56 use the same microswitch…
Of course, these guys don’t have the parts available now, either, and frankly they were kind of nasty the one time I did ask a question about something else in their catalog listing. They have no sense of humor or patience with people whatsoever!
Ah, yeah the LS-33, LS-55, and LS-56 all use the same PCB with the same switches soldered on.
If people want an Omron equivalent I did list an easy to source one a while back for the LS-40 and LS-56. Let me search SRK a bit, once I find it, it will be a good source for here as well. Using an Omron switch means soldering though, but it’s a simple job.
Here we go, from the Paradise Arcade thread:
Basically, if you want to switch mod Hayabusa you’ll want the Omron V-16-1C25-LR. It’s the Omron equivalent to the Matsushita switches down to the force needed to actuate and it’s easy to find. The D3V series is not common so will need to be special ordered. The difference is minimal other than a red pin really. I’m pretty sure the internals are just about the same. Oh, and you will have to solder, you can’t switch internals because the levers on the V-16-xx are the 4 mm variant and not the 5. I believe the difference between the D3V is that it uses the 5 mm variant, but I do not know because I do not have one. Maybe I should order a few…
snip double post
awesome, looks like i’ll be placing an order for Omron V-16-1C25-LR on mouser soon. thanks moonchilde!
http://www.todaycomponents.com/omron-d3v-16g1-1c25-k-switch.html
D3V-16G1-1C25-K available at todaycomponents.com! Guess I’m going to order some Maybe I’ll finally have a reason to whip out the ol’ soldering iron
OUCH $9.95 shipping?!
Looks nice, i think ill just wait to try it on somebody stick at a meetup.
moon- damn dude, i think Hori wants the fu#K you! sending personally signed love letters and shit
Is that with or with out the lever?
Those are with the lever.