i owned the hori edge and i’m not a fan of the stick. the throw feels much larger than the jlf, making me miss all my dp motions.
The throw isn’t, nor does it feel, longer than a JLF.
Yeah, it does!
With the Hayabusa installed, my favorite in-production HRAP became an even better joystick controller.
I was concerned about the plastic joystick lever “retainer” ring interfering with the Hayabusa but thankfully the H-stick didn’t have issues there.
The HRAP N3 was the HRAP case I was most concerned about the Hayabusa fitting in…
I had a bad experience with installing the LS-32-01 in that joystick case and I was concerned about Hayabusa.
Unfortunately, for all part mods and swaps, you really have to open up the HRAP N3/NX joystick baseplate and forget about installations/removals from the top like you would do with the older HRAP 1-3 joystick bases (after hex nut mods to allow installation/removals like the HRAP SA/SE, HRAP 2 SA, and HRAP 3 SA/SE. For the bulk of “old-style” HRAP’s, you had to remove close to 30 screws, hex nuts, washers, and carriage bolts to get the faceplate off! The LE HRAP’s had everything positioned to be serviced with a faceplate removable from the top thanks to SIX capsocket/buttonhead screws. Just six screws to remove there versus 28-30 for the other HRAP 1-3’s. I modded all my Tekken 5 and HRAP 3 joysticks to open the same way by permanently gluing on the existing M4 hex nuts. They became bases for the Internet-bought capsocket screws I used to replace the carriage bolts. The carriage bolts themselves were sold to another SRK member who wanted them for his arcade cabinets. I used the washers from the HRAP 3’s and T5 joysticks in a variety of other mod projects…)
The ONLY time you should taking the top faceplate screws off on the HRAP N3/NX is when you’re doing art mods or installing plexis and only then AFTER removing the parts (buttons) from the faceplate (which again, is only practical working from the bottom with the baseplate off. The joystick “retainer ring” gets in the way if you have anything other a small JLF-like joystick installed in the HRAP N3. The 5-point adapter prong of the Hayabusa would definitely get in the way of HRAP N3 faceplate removal! The adapter prong sits just over top of the retainer ring.)
That’s my major beef with the HRAP N3/NX. I was so used to toploading/removing parts from the faceplate but Hori for some dumb reason changed that whole philosophy starting with the HRAP V3 and going into the HRAP N3. The HRAP N3 is otherwise the nicest joystick case Hori has in-production and out on market right now.
I found that “throw comment” curious, too.
That has NOT been my experience with the Hayabusa and I came from almost exclusive use of the LS-joysticks for over 4 years now.
The Hayabusa re-centers itself nicely and definitely snaps back-and-forth faster than the JLF.
For a joystick built with JLF-clone parts, the Hayabusa is about as un-JLF-like performance-wise as it gets short of buying a Seimitsu joystick. (At least as far it goes with experience with the LS-32, LS-40, and LS-58… I have no experience with the other LS-joysticks but my reading says the LS-58 is nothing more than a new model of the LS-56… The LS-33 is supposedly closest in feel to the Sanwa JLF but again no personal experience there.)
I’m seriously thinking the Hayabusa is much better-engineered and better-built than the LS-joysticks, too. Mind you, I’m NOT throwing away or discontinuing all LS-joystick use on my end BUT I finally found another joystick that to my style of playing and comfort level is inarguably (to me, at least) much better than the JLF, too!
I love it more and more as I continue to use it. It just feels…right. LoL. After the spring swap i started to hear a squeak when pressing the down direction. I applied a little bit of Molykote to the inside of the actuator and both ends of the spring and it stopped. When I was doing this I got to take another look at the actuator. The Busa actuator is of very high quality compared to other delrin actuators. It is much smoother and even has a bit of a metallic flake looking finish.
You guys are making me sure hype for the stick to come in!!
The only mod I did was to screw the Hayabusa spring – which appears to be a straight-off JLF spring clone – inside a spare LS-32 spring I had.
It’s just a slight adjustment but I like the new tension better!
The only bad news to report is damage to the paint on the E-ring and the end of the shaft. The E-ring was sure to be scored a bit with removal but I was surprised to see how bad the paint got worn off. I screwed on a new balltop handle – one of butteroj’s – and the shaft occasionally slipped and the notch end is more worn now (softer metal than my screwdriver, for sure!). Some of the custom balltop handles like butteroj’s seem to be harder to screw on to stick shafts. That issue hasn’t occurred with any of my Sanwa or Seimitsu balltops.
Those are the only negative things I have to note.
I considered the LS-56 switch mod for about 20 seconds but it doesn’t look like I’d go that far with this stick. It’s very solid performing as it is! IF I were tempted to do that mod on a future H-stick buy, at least it’s an easy one. Too bad the microswitches seem to be hard to source and buy separate from the LS-56! Right now, the only place I could for sure buy them – short of buying an LS-56(!) – is akihabarashop.jp …
Bottom of my shaft is actually fine after multiple screwings. Uh…
Anyway, the color on the e-clip scratches off really easy. My shaft is all good though.
My e-clip got scratched as well. The shaft is fine. Has anybody ever tried something like this for e-clip removal? Seems like it would be less likely to damage the actuator, clip, and the shaft itself but is it strong enough?
Just curious and to be sure I can do it, I have a Sanwa JLF-TP-8YT with a mounting plate, I can remove that mounting plate and install it on the Hayabusa?
Yeah, but why would you? Hayabusa has its own mounting plate.
The 玄 is from 玄人 (kurouto) which means expert, professional.
In that case, it makes sense what they were going for when naming the buttons. I want to try them but no transparent and no screw in. If they did transparent and screw in, I’d have all Hori parts.
someone on twitter pointed this out to me: Hayabusa is mountable inside a VSHG, making it mountable on a HRAP3, Sanwa Sega Panels (Blast, Versus, Net), other similar “two point” mounts. Similar to JLF, you have to remove the mounting plate to access these mounts (and also get correct height)
@moonchilde I’m sorry I think I misunderstood some of the thread, the hayabusa should fit on most jlf mounts?
Great, than it’s a straight install in an EGRET II as well. 
You can see them in the pictures. I thought I pointed that out as well, since that’s how you’d mount it in the Hori HRAP3. If I missed it I was going to point it out later, lol. It’s actually how I have it currently mounted in my custom after doing some minor routing mods in my 2nd prototype.
You mean the plate? Yeah it will fit all the plates. If there is a 2 point mount similar to the HRAP3 or any other stick hibachifinal noted, it should fit on that as well.
Sooo, how much effort would it take to ghetto-mount a Hayabusa in a Tekken 5 stick (USA version)?
Just slap it on there with duct tape and zipties.
Zip tie mounts like they used to do for PCBs anyone?
Anyways there’s too much hype for this stick that it’s too tempting to buy one right now. Considering that it can use sanwa parts is really making hard for me to wait for PAS’s hollow 56 shafts since I could just easily get a hollow JLF shaft and put LEDs in it. One thing that’s been throwing me for a loop is the statements on throw being anywhere from longer than a JLF to exactly that of a 56. Considering I always lean towards shorter throw sticks i was kind of confused by all this and having to do less mods to fit a preference is always good… but i guess I should probably order one before saying all this.
@moonchilde stupid question what kind of washer did you use for the no throw? I’m still in love with no throw on a 56 for quite a few of the games I play.
It’s a 9/16 spacer which would be labeled as OD .5625. You can find them easy at Home Depot, model # 87318 store sku is 595741.
Here is my LS-40 version of the mod:
Someone I taught the mod to made a blog about it here. @andramelech has his LS-56 version of the mod pictured below. I never took pictures of my LS-56 mod since I used custom gates after and was too lazy about it especially since he took photos already, lol.
It’s exactly the same on Hayabusa. It shortens the throw exactly the same and the engage is identical to the LS-40 and LS-56, otherwise, this mod would not work. Also, would recommend doing this with either levers or a 1 mm oversized JLF actuator to make up for not having levers if you have not done the lever mod.
By the spacer, wrap some 220 sandpaper around the end of a dowel, and use your fingers to spin the inner diameter of the spacer around the sandpaper until it fits over the end of the Hayabusa actuator. The diameter of Hayabusa’s actuator is equal to the average of the LS-56 actuator, which is tapered while Hayabusa is not.