No dude, quit fucking up the thread. Telling someone to clean out their stick and all that extra work you had him do was for nothing because it was a single game. If it’s a single game it boils down to operator error or a glitch in the pcb/game or a combination of the latter. A switch isn’t going to magically stick on a single input on a single game and not any other game.
Got My lever in the mail today 
She looks good lit up.
Quoted since both of you seem to have missed it.
Probably.
Yes, KI magically makes the joystick knackers.
What is your diagnosis Doctor?
If you play X game for 2 hours a day versus Y game for 1 hour a week, you’re more likely to notice an issue that occurs 0.1% of the time while playing X game. Same goes for the amount of times a particular input is used on whatever game- if you’re playing a game where you’re regularly doing charge down/up moves versus a game where you’re sticking to quarter circle, half circle, dragon punch, etc, a rarely occurring issue involving the up switch is more likely to occur while playing the first game. You’re smart enough to know this. I’m trying to help the guy rather than ignore his issue.
Look at what you just wrote. For one, charge characters don’t have to charge down up and two, motion characters have a thing called jumping. There is also tiger knee motions that end in the up position and 360 spd motions that require all 4 directions being hit. Just because you play one style vs the other doesn’t mean you’re more likely to hit up more or less. There is also match ups to consider which may or may not have both styles changing tactics to stay on the ground or starting going airborne. That’s all in a single game. Take special move inputs completely out of the equation and you still have the same fundamentals. Play a shooter vs a beat em up and you still need to constantly change directions. Even old school side scrolling games like castlevania or ninja gaiden require constant leftb and right movement while having to duck to hit low or press up + b to use a sub weapon.
How does your math equation make sense? No, don’t justify it because that’s rhetorical.
Lets stop and go over all the actual facts. I took the time to re-read what dtgodmage22 posted, it would not hurt for everyone to do the same.
If dtgodmage22 wants to, he can amend to what he already said.
- dtgodmage22 said he is having a issue that only occurs in Killer Instinct 2013 for the Xbox One. And his JLF pivot jumps when he goes up. Far as we know the issue only occurs on KI and not any game.
- dtgodmage22 confirms it is only Killer Instinct 2013 for the Xbox One and not any other game.
- The Sanwa JLF hardware is not influenced by what ever game/software you are running. “The joystick it self does not care what game you play and does not want to know what game you are playing”.
- dtgodmage22 said he already clean and re-greased the joystick and replace all the switches.
- if there is a malformation in the pivot or joystick body, gate, ect I hope dtgodmage22 would notice it during his service of the joystick.
- dtgodmage22 said he uses his stick on the Xbox One and PS4 and what ever system Fightcade runs on (some sort of PC OS, Win, mac or Linux)
The last two I can’t confirm other than taking dtgodmage22’s word, but in the interest of showing common courtesy and respect we will take dtgodmage22 on his word.
What you are doing wrong Camacho
- You are assuming the only other game dtgodmage22 plays is Street Fighter. dtgodmage22 never stated what he plays other than Fightcade and the PS4 console which as more to offer for fighting other than Street Fighter V.
- You are assuming without any proof that a straight up input will malfunction while partial circle movement involving the up switch never will malfunction. You are still Engaging that UP switch.
- You are assuming that dtgodmage22 never hits straight up in any game but Killer Instinct 2013.
- You still going on this myth that the Sanwa JLF has a LS-32 style Pivot issue that can’t be replicated by other people.
- You assume by pandering to this misconstrued concept of a JLF pivot jump is helping.
To @dtgodmage22
If you haven’t already, plug your stick into your PC, open up the joy.cpl window ether though Devices And Printers or though Win + R and typing in joy.cpl.
If you are not using Windows, use that ever the equivalent program in Mac or Linux.
Open up the controller properties and test out your motions in the program and see if the issue is replicated there.
That will get to the bottom of this matter, and see if he can replicate the issues in the test window.
That’s how science works, seeing if we can replicate the results or not.
If dtgodmage22 really wants to replace his joystick entirely even the improvement is only by the placebo effect why stop him.
Let him do what he feels make him happy.
That should be the end result, that dtgodmage22 or who-ever-else is happy with their solution to their problem.
To add to what Darksakul said, it is probably going to be MUCH easier to download the NEWEST version of “Joytokey” and set the processing speed to x16.
The default processing speed has a 10ms delay, so you won’t even be able to see any debounce issues.
The reason I’m asking you to download Joytokey is, you want to combine it with this program:
https://elitekeyboards.com/switchhitter.php
Then set UDLR on the joystick to something obvious in Joytokey like I (up), J (left), K (right) and M (down).
Then have at it with switchhitter. You can then test to see if you are going in one direction, if another direction suddenly activates even for a split second, as switch hitter will pick it up.
This program is usually used to test for key chatter and NKRO, but I think it will be helpful in this case.
BTW, just to let you know, while I was typing this, I just got “key chatter” from the left microswitch on my TE joystick Haha. Time to clean it !
(edit) all cleaned. Now Joystick left doesn’t chatter anymore on my Madcatz TE. (Qanba Q4 JLF Omron switches were cleaned awhile ago and are still chatter free, but I had to do the Sanwa buttons just now).
Also, using Joytokey with switchhitter with your joysticks will also tell you if you need to clean or replace the microswitches much easier than staring at Joy.cpl. Just REMEMBER to set Joytokey processing speed to x16 or it won’t detect ANY bad switches. JLF Omron switches can be cleaned by just opening them and spraying Deoxit D5 on the contacts. Sanwa pushbutton switches be cleanable by spraying Deoxit into the tiny tiny crevice around the white plunger housing, which will make a mess but helped remove chatter from the buttons.
Even if this is unrelated to your issue, it’s still a useful maintenance method if you can’t replace the PCB or switches directly.
The type of mod he has could clarify a few things.
If it’s a Brook UFB, do any other games on XB1 do this? If so, is this a glitch exclusive to XB1?
If it’s a dual MKX pad hack, is it possible something is bridging the connection on one pad but not the other?
Is it a dual mod MKX/FC4 combo? If so, see above?
Replication is important. Since we know it only happens in one game on a single platform we can rule out the possibility of a defective switch. I know some people here love to blame hardware for everything, but switches are extremely simple, manufactured to a spec, and it’s rare you’ll get a dud. The simplicity alone makes troubleshooting a switch extremely easy. It either works, or it doesn’t work. If you do have a dud, then it’s apparent on everything you use that input for.
IMO, @dtgodmage22 should open a new thread and seek help troubleshooting his setup since this is specific to a scenario and we can rule out a defective lever.
I don’t think it’s actually only happening on one game. I think it’s probably only being noticed in one game.
This should explain what is happening…
also. I mounted a stock Hayabusa, JLF and LS-32 to the same panel and built a simple lighting circuit. Going to be looking at spring centering, actuation points and joystick wiggle (sometimes causing opposite inputs) should be up within a week.
sample clip showing opposite inputs.Lights turn off on release and back on for a moment when the shaft actuates the opposite direction/
https://youtu.be/eprbHQjN9Kc
Hey, very nice vid. Can you do one with a higher tension spring? I’d like to see if higher tension or lower tension has more deflection.
Yes. I can work that into the longer video.
Edit Added:
I also DM’d you the clips for just the Hayabusa
To all the people who think diagonals are harder on the Hayabusa: you are not crazy.
It’s because of the shape and size of the buttons on the microswitches. With smaller rounded buttons, you have to move much deeper to hit diagonals from 2 or 8 than to hit 4/6 from 5 compared to the bigger flatter microswitches of the JLF. Your movements have to be more L shaped and less arced to spend a similar amount of time on each part of the input compared to the JLF, which already emphasizes cardinal directions.
The early reset point of the microswitches also contributes to bad diagonals. Since diagonals tend to be missed because they’re inputted for sub-frame durations, this exacerbates the problem. The JLF and the Hayabusa more so both have a small zone to hit the diagonals, but with the reset point of the JLF, the diagonals become “bigger” once you hit them, the Hayabusa not so much.
I thought the diagonals would be much easier on this stick but Sanwa’s is much better. What’s the point then?
It’s a nearly identical Sanwa JLF clone, it’s not going to be drastically different. With some mods you can get it feeling really nice, but you could do those same mods on a JLF.
For me the Hori Hayabusa has been great for street fighter. My execution is perfect with that lever in that game. Even in MKXL too. But for some reason with KOF this lever sucks. I use a LS-32 lever for that game and my execution goes up 10 fold. Maybe it’s just me or the way I use the stick but I’ve found this combo works. I use my Hori VLX Premium Hayabusa for SF and other fighting games, for KOF I use my Hori RAP4 Kai KOF Edition with LS-32 installed and it’s awesome. Just my 2 cents!
KoF requires faster and shorter inputs, which a stock Hayabusa is not good at. You should try a LS-40 if you like the 32 for KoF.