Never had the pivot pop on a hayabysa. I wonder how hard some people are playing to beat their sticks like that…
It pops if you press hard enough- way harder than you should be pressing though. It’s one of those things that doesn’t really matter, yet will annoy some people once they know it’s there.
No it doesn’t. I just tested it on several Hayabusas and it does not do what you are talking about. If I grip it like an idiot and slam it while pulling up, then yes it pops. No one should be playing on their stick like that and it literally requires me to pull upwards on the damn thing. Every lever on the market will do that since there is no hardware to stop someone from pulling upwards on the lever.
Ahem, just tested both of my JLF’s. Kowal actuators with Octagon gates. Madcatz TE FSPro with LS-55 spring (~2lb), Qanba Q4raf with stock spring. Neither of them pop when pulling them up, but that’s a very unnatural movement, but they don’t pop. Can’t be good for them. Qanba has a much smoother movement when pulling up than the madcatz, but there’s some difference in how they’re mounted. Madcatz has a “groove” cutout for the internal dust washer, while the Qanba doesn’t. However I removed the internal dust washer from the madcatz TE and put it on the Qanba since the Qanba is a much nicer stick. No idea if that affects how smooth the “pull up” motion feels though.
No idea about the stock actuator. Stock actuator is garbage anyway (throws are too long, octagon gates suck ass on the stock actuator).
The two Happ IL sticks top bolt mounted (xarcade mod) move up but don’t pop. The Happ IL stick mounted under the surface (arcadeinabox made stick long ago) with covering through 3/4" wood (no top bolts visible) don’t move one bit, however.
Throws are longer on the Oct Gates, thats just a fact of life.
Unless you are using a bargain model Mad Catz stick such as the Brawl or Alpha your Mad Catz stick comes with a JLF.
Qanba comes with a JLF or their own Clone of the JLF.
So I was sitting there with a space loose Hayabusa joystick. The Joystick is stock except for the shaft, I have on it a hallow JLF shaft for a LED mod I never went though.
Other than that this stick is identical to stock. It has the stock actuator, spring and gate.
I am moving it every which way. I do my normal eagle claw over the balltop hold, no popping of the pivot.
I switch to a wineglass hold, I still notice nothing.
Now I grab the balltop like a shifter knob and go ham on it, pushing the balltop from underneath with the palm of my hand so as I hit up I am also lifting the whole shaft Assembly.
Now I can feel that Pop.
Just for comparison I tried the same thing to a loose LS-56-01 with a really tight spring, I had top put in alot more force than the Hayabusa but I can recreate that popping feeling.
I am starting to see what @moonchild is talking about.
Go ham on the joystick like a gorilla.
As for the inner Dust washer, I tried to pull up on the shaft, I tried this with several different styles of dust washer, a Hori Hayabusa Dustwasher, a Sanwa Dust Washer and a JLW dustwasher, I can maybe get the Sanwa dust washer to catch if I am lifting up on the balltop as far as it will go and tilting the lever in every which way. And this only happen once out of 3 dozen attempts.
It’s much worse with the actuator and gate I normally use (still requires much more force than you should be using), but here it is with the stock actuator and gate. Only was happening in the down direction- I’ve noticed that all of my 56 levers will do it in a single direction as well.
Looks like you are lifting the joystick for that final push pass the click.
If I choose a grip where my hand is on top of the ball top it never happens.
If I do the wine glass hold, it does not happen as you have a very loose and gentle hold.
As you are doing it, I can replicate the pivot pop that with almost any joystick.
Just pressing firmly. Like I said, you have to use more force than you should in order for this to happen, and it’s more of a “bump” than a “pop”. My point is that it’s normal, and if you’re feeling it a lot you’re probably using too much force. I doubt you want a bunch of new people thinking their levers are defective because they get a teensy pivot jump when using lots of force. And yes, every Japanese lever I’ve tried does it to one extent or another, with the 32/38 being way worse than the rest.
The player isn’t using too much force, they’re literally pushing the damn thing UP from under the ball top or bat top. If you press the joystick from a horizontal axis like it’s supposed to be used, this will never happen except on a LS-32 when hitting the extreme ends of the throw. It’s not “normal” for this to happen unless you’re using the lever wrong. No one should be pushing or pulling up on the lever via a veritcal axis as they play. If someone is feeling this, then they need to change how they play.
I have a friend who will argue until he’s blue in the face that the human eye can’t see a difference between 30 fps and 60 fps, even after being showed this, http://blog.logicalincrements.com/2015/04/does-fps-matter-decide-for-yourself/ , this is seeming reminiscent of that discussion. I can make that happen in the shown direction using any grip method, and it’s clear that the same amount of force in the other directions wasn’t making the pop. If I was lifting up, you would have seen the pop in the other 3 directions. And again, I’ve said over and over that if this is happening, you’re pressing too hard. I can demonstrate the same phenomenon in the 56, the 62, and the JLF- would have been able to show the 40 doing it also had I not sold mine.
My first Hayabusa’s pivot sometimes bumped upwards and outwards exactly like in the video. I first noticed the issue when going for the harder links in sf4 because I had to move the lever faster/harder than usual. I removed the Hayabusa lever from the case to examine it. I first removed the mount plate to see if maybe something was stuck in the pivot, found nothing, then I noticed that the pivot would bump upwards/out of its space with what I consider medium to heavy force. I took apart the entire lever looking for anything unusual and found nothing out of the ordinary.
The Hayabusa’s I have now will only pivot pop when I move them with VERY hard force, so it’s no longer an issue for me. Also, all my Hayabusa’s have never been modded.
Perhaps it isn’t an issue with every lot. Regardless, I would encourage anyone who has one that does this, or any other lever that does it, to just use less force. Even the LS-32 is perfectly fine to use if you aren’t using too much force.
There’s a difference between moving the lever on a horizontal axis and pushing up vertically. I can’t get any of my Hayabusa’s to pop unless I physically push it upwards out of the pivot point vertically. I just tried several other sticks I have laying around and it’s the same damn thing.
Again, this does not happen even if you slam the thing horizontally. A grip below the ball top hitting at a diagonal angle will push it upwards and cause it to pop. That’s player error and this will happen to every single lever.
If you grip it and push down while slamming left and right, it does not pop. You can use “too much force” hitting any of the levers I have laying around and no pops.
Again, it’s not “normal” because the player is hitting it the wrong way.If a player feels this happen, then they need to play differently.
I agree. It’s not an issue with all Hayabusa’s i’ve tried.
Where can I get a Hayabusa stick now? trying to switch the Sanwa from TE2 to Hayabusa and can’t find stock anywhere.
You’re probably going to have to wait for a restock or find a used one and buy one off them.
anyone put in a jlf spring in the hayabusa? is it me or is it slightly firmer… or is it the same… they look the same… i think the stock spring in hayabusa is a tiny bit loose for me… but the jlf 2lb is way too stiff
JLF spring is supposed to be around 1lb and Hayabusa is .8-.9lb from what I remember reading somewhere long ago.
About the same. If a 2 lb is too much, there is always a 1.5.