Or not use Kowal actuators.
A fiber washer?
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a189/gumbyslide/6548-Handles_Dogs_HeavyDuty_Misc_FiberWasher_1.jpg
Where do i find one of those president chomachi said the paradise agutators are not as good as the kowals
… and plenty of people will say the PAS ones are fine, too. Why do you want an actuator again?
I said I prefer the kowal, it’s a subjective thing.
The difference in throw, jlf and hayabusa throws feel ridiculously long to me without it. It just makes both feel more Seimitsu like in terms of engage and throw. That said, my main lever now is the ls-56 with an octagonal gate.
Its why I gave up on the JLF and regard the JLF as trash to the horror of some forum members
No matter how much I mod a JLF, it still feels like a JLF
Eh, I wouldn’t go that far. I still think either the jlf or the hhs are fine with the actuator in question, I just prefer the Seimitsu.
i like the 1.0 kowal on my acutator for the fact it does make the jlf shorter on throw the 2lb spring is starting to feel smooth and buttery but i believe its cuz my wrist is getting used to it.
Have you tried other aftermarket actuators as well?
nope first fightstick really liking the kowal 1.0 and the 2lb spring. i really hated the stock spring and acutator the deadzone killed me so hard not to ride the gate.
Got the hayabusa in my te 2 since i been using the jlf with 1.0 kowal and 2 lb spring. Using thw stock spring and acutator feels so unusal ima stick with it and try the 2 lb spring
Ahemmm, I think you’re mixing up things there, there’s absolutely no boucing nor redirecting of the beam in this circuit, there’s only blocking or in-line detecting of the beam between source and receptor. The hayabusa silent circuit is similar to the spark and all the other ones made for the JLF : they’re based on photointerrupters . Not reflection . When the IR beam is blocked sufficiently between the IR Led and the phototransistor (or photodiode, or combination, choose your flavor according to the design) , the IC (comparator, hex-schmitt inverter etc) sends an “on” signal of whatever VCC value is needed by the control PCB (in our case it is +5V) , which would be equivalent to a mechanical contact (leaf or icroswitch) turned on momentarily. When the beam is “fully” detected which means no blocking between led and phototransistor, the signal coming out of the circuit is then 0V , which is “off” . The IC inverts if there is the need (depends on design) and just sends a “high” or low" (+5V or 0V) which depends on the degree of beam blocking by the plastic actuator, the intermediate values being rounded off to the max or min depending on the sensitivity of the circuit. All four light beams detected at their peak value (no blocking at all for any phototransistor) = actuator is in neutral zone = no direction signal at all.
Not to point out only mistakes, but it’s interesting you talk about reflection of the beam, beacause a hell of a lot of patents for optical sensors intended for joysticks are based on reflection, where the joystick shaft for example has a small mirror secured to it’s extremity in the housing, redirecting the beam towards sensors. In this case, only one light source could be used, not 4 as in the spark or the silent hayabusa .
hello. 2 questions. 1) what shaft extender i have to buy for hayabusa joystick? 2) lb-30n bat handle fits ok? thanks! 
Anything that works with the SANWA JLF is compatible, yes the bay will work with the adapter installed.
thank you!
I’ve spent the past six months playing on Hayabusa sticks to get intimately familiar with them. Naturally, this has meant a lot of tweaking and modding as well.
In the end, I came to this conclusion: it’s as good as it’s going to get out of the box.
I tried tighter springs. The problem I have with them is that because the throw on the Hayabusa is even longer than the JLF, it requires more effort than it should to input from center. The best spring for me was 1.5lbf, but even that seemed excessive over long periods of use. For what it’s worth, I have two JLF’s with 2lbf springs and I like that just fine.
I also tried oversized actuators. The Kowal works in mine, but it doesn’t have the nice feel of the delrin actuator it comes with, plus it doesn’t shorten the engage by that much, anyways (since the stock actuator is already “oversized” compared to the JLF’s). The PAS 1mm actuator would be a winner if it shortened the throw, but because the part that hits the gate shares the same dimensions as the stock JLF actuator, it actually increases the throw on the Hayabusa.
It took all this tweaking for me to appreciate just how good the stock actuator is. Nice shape, sloped but not at a crazy angle. Nice material, makes it easier to feel out directions. Nice dimensions, keeps the engage roughly the same as the JLF’s and does its best to reduce the throw.
Really, the actuator is what makes this stick. If they had kept everything else the same but gave it a smaller ABS actuator, it would be a sloppier JLF. The only thing I can say against the Hayabusa is that I think the throw is a bit too long, but since everything else about it works so well, I can overlook that.
Actually it was found that the actuator has the same outside dimensions as JLF. Never taken inside dimensions though…hmm.