Does the G-501 look solid white paste like the stock lube that comes with most(all?) Seimitsu sticks?
I’ve been using SuperLube that Moonchilde recommended for a little over 2 weeks on a JLF and Ls-32 and it works well. Didn’t use it on my Hayabusa yet as it came pretty well lubed unlike JLFs.
Answer is yes.
Nice information @jaquio. I might pick up some G501, I love the stock lube from Seimitsu. This week I’m going to pick up the Silicone based PTFE teflon grease by Super Lube and see how it compares to the multipurpose synthetic grease.
I took a pic, notice that both 40M and Molykote are very similar overall, Honda grease and G-501 looks similar at first sight but is not like that, if you pay attention you see that G-501 texture reflects the light and looks a bit wet like the others, the Honda Grease barely reflects the light and also looks dried.
Very nice. I don’t really like Moly 44, it feels too sticky and I don’t like how the pivot feels when used with it. If G40M is anything like it probably wouldn’t like that one, either. Definitely can see the “drier” look of the G30M vs the G501. I did notice that the lube that’s on stock Seimitsu from the factory had a really wet look to it. Plus, it feels really good, lol.
I plan to make my Hayabusa silent, how does it feel with the Kowal actuator, 2lb spring and D2RV-G? I plan to dremel it and use the .187 to 5-Pin Harness.
But searching through 10 pages or so I see most if not all people use reed(lever) microswitches in theirs, does that feel better than normal snap switches and won’t have problems with the 1mm actuator?
I plan to make my Hayabusa silent, how does it feel with the Kowal actuator, 2lb spring and D2RV-G? I plan to dremel it and use the .187 to 5-Pin Harness.
But searching through 10 pages or so I see most if not all people use reed(lever) microswitches in theirs, does that feel better than normal snap switches and won’t have problems with the 1mm actuator?
I have the D2RVs in mine. I’m not sure how you could get the oversized actuator to work
Q. Can you use the Kowal 1mm oversized actuator on the Hayabusa
A. You cannot use the oversized actuator in combination with the stock bottom plate. You will need to do the previously mentioned mod with the jlf gate which puts the gate closer to the microswitches.
Q. When I try to put the Hayabusa in my case it doesn’t fit due to the buttons (usually this is with Qanba sticks)
A. the pcb that connects the jst harness to the microswitches is held down by a small screw. By removing this screw, you gain enough flexibility to accomadate the stick into the case. (see picture without pcb screw)[/details]
If you put the 2lb spring in there, it feels like a better LS32. If you put a Sanwa spring, it’s like the JLF on level 3 xfactor. I can’t decide on which I like better.
Just file down the corners so that the actuator is more bell shaped similar to JLF actuators. This was addressed several times in this thread when users noted a snag on the gate with kowal’s actuators, which was due to the shape of it.
Reed switches don’t really have a better feel as you won’t really feel or hear them. The 2 lb spring would be more of a personal preference, and I’d recommend trying out some other tensions since springs are relatively cheap.
hey guys forgive me but i just bought the hayabusa for my madcatz te2 i never done a swap like this before. i was curious will my 2lb spring fit just fine or? i know the kowal agutator will fit fine but the spring is my main concern as i hate the loose feel of the stock jlf. also i hear people used the jlf octogate on the haybusa how would i go about instalition of the haya in my te2 and getting the octo to fit it. i play on square but i like the options
Didn’t you just ask that in Absolute Question and Answer Thread v.3 (ASK YOUR QUESTIONS HERE!)
Also check the 2 posts above yours that talk about both the 2lb spring and Kowal. :o
And further up they speak about modding the sticks housing to get different gates in.
i really am not good when it comes to this stuff. but i coudl sworn on focus ataack they said in the video the kowal agutator will fit no problem 
i wouldn’t know how to go about modding it to fit the hayabusa.
All you have to do is file or sand the top cylinder edge down. If you can brush your teeth, you can handle this.
any pictures or advice how much i need to do? or exactly the edge i need to do this i can give it a try but i might just end up buying another one and sending it to pinyon so he can do the octomod for the haybusa too for now i just plan on taking the 2lb spring and playing with the haybusa till my next paycheck so i can order another octo and kowal for pinyon then.
Just take a little off, put the gate back on, and test it. If it snags, take a little more off. If it doesn’t, you’re done.
i don’t understand what we mean by snag but i guess i’ll put it on see what this snag is and order another one so i can experiment. i really do want to learn i hate posting the noobist of noob questions but i just hope with my noobness we can archvie it for another noobs. im not a crafty person i rarely do anything like this kinda stuff. i hope the hayabusa is better then the jlf i have no problem with the kowal and spring on my jlf right now but if it was stock parts i’d sold my fight stick. the loose jlf feel gets on my nerves
The largest part snags on the gate if unmodified.
If you don’t like the loose feel of the jlf then the hayabusa probably isn’t for you either.
2lb spring will fix that
Instead of filing down the Kowal actuator you guys could probably use a fiber washer as a spacer between the top of the actuator and the e-clip.