I just anwser to someone think G-30 is the original Seimitsu…
Personnally i don’t have time to test different lube , G-501 work well with Seimitsu and it’s cheaper than G-40 , that all.
When you look on Shin-Etsu websit : silicone.jp/e/products/type/grease/index.shtml
It seem G-501 is the best for our use…
But i can understand a lot of lube can make the same job.
PS : in fact , i really don’t care about lube you use all guys…it’s your private life.
Does anyone find the shaft cover on the Hayabusa really spinny, or is it just mine? Like the cover moves really freely, whereas it is a little tighter on my JLFs. I find it a bit distracting while doing motions.
I don’t have a stock Hayabusa to find out and compare. I kind of mixed up my Hori and Sanwa Shaft covers.
Anyways my grip style for ball tops is the same as how you have to hold a bat top. Because of this a loose shaft never comes info factor for me.
If it’s a issue you can swap the shaft cover, the shaft or both on the Hayabusa with a Sanwa JLF shaft/Shaft cover.
@mIRC So did you wrap the fortune cookie paper around the pivot? I’d be interested to see a picture. I didn’t notice that ‘snapping’ thing before recently and I figured something was just wrong with it. I tired more lube, less lube, no lube and it was all really inconsistently wonky and a pain in the ass. I love the HHS and hate the JLF but all of the issues I had recently with the HHS really turned me off. **Here is a video of what was happening to me.**Its a perspective from the bottom with no switches on, but I’m not moving the shaft any more than I would if switches were blocking it. That ‘pop’ is very feels very tactile when moving the stick, and mostly happens when moving the stick downward. I’d already posted about this plenty but wasn’t sure if you had seen it.
The fortune cookie paper is placed within the inner circle of the pivot that makes contact with the metal of the shaft. You hold the paper slightly above and parallel to the shaft as you slide the pivot on along with the paper. I’ve since replaced the paper with tape since I figure it’d better avoid possible wear and getting paper particles everywhere. The tape sticks to the pivot so I guess that’s nifty too. Hopefully these joystick companies pay closer attention to the dimensions of the pivot in the future so this won’t be necessary.
As I was doing this I tried out lubing the metal washer that makes contact with the spring flange. Movement was less smooth because of it. Much better to remove the metal washer and clean it completely before use. Leave that thing bare. The flange is made of Delrin right? Self lubing baby.
@Cagan Have you tried the LS-40? imo and tbh, you are wasting your time with modding the hayabusa, because all the mods you are doing are technically leading to the same feel and function of a LS-40. Also, keep in mind PAS will have custom springs for the LS-40 very soon, so you can easily mod that even further.
Also, just wanna put in my 2 cents and say that the kowal actuator is garbage, bad shape and material imo. Is it just me or all the kowal parts are kinda wonky?
Really glad I didn’t keep my hayabusa, despite that I hated it, but this just validates my intuition.
I’m with you on this. I hate using my HRAP V4 Feel because of the Hayabusa. I’m actual deciding on gutting the PCB from the HRAP to put in a Panzer or to swap the Hayabusa for a stock JLF.
I already took the Hayabusa out for a Sanwa JLW in my Hrap V4
I am think of putting the Hrap v4 PCB in that panzer I got from you last, and dual mod it with that PS360+
I’m surprised at the ire toward the stick, but I do need to try more of 'em. As long as I can get the same engage and throw with as little tension I’d mess with anything. The smoother the stick the better.
For now I’m pretty happy with the HHS though. Maybe give the JLW a shot some time in the future.
I have put 2 Hayabusas in my sticks. One in a Panzer, the other in a MC Fightstick Pro.
I have to say I really prefer the feel of the Busa’s. Remember, it’s all preference, and we all have different hands, muscle content, etc etc.
Reminds me of Fender vs Gibson, or Ford vs Chevy vs Dodge. Like it has been said numerous times here and abroad. “What ever floats your boat”.
I feel my execution is much more efficient and cleaner. I also like the rock solid feel.
Whether I’m just barely engaging the switches or banging out an unexpected hit confirm xx/reaction FADC, its great.
I’m pretty happy. Going to order a few more in time.
I like the hayabusa once it’s modded, but when I think about it that goes for nearly every stick I’ve played on.
For me I use a 2 lb spring and custom 2mm oversized actuator to bring the feel closer to that of my old ls-56 with short throw gate ( damn @Moonchilde got me stuck on short throw everything). I also like the feel of the gate in comparison to a jlf, which didn’t appeal to me due to how soft the gate felt among other things.
I’ve used pretty much all the typical sanwa and seimitsu sticks an the ls-40 was the most fulfilling stock. Didn’t like the throw of the the jlf or h-stick, I wanted a tighter spring on everything but the ls-56 and jlw (which I wanted a slightly softer spring or a heavier ball top, yes my hands are weak sauce). The ls-56 seemed to grind a bit after awhile and wobbled around neutral like a v1 link. I pretty much found something wrong with every stick.
In retrospect I’ve really become a prick when it comes to the joystick I use in my sticks at home, but I don’t really complain when I go to my local arcade to play sf or other games on a really worn out jlf. Playing on those and not really noticing how much of a difference it made to me after a few matches of adjustment makes me realize how spoiled we are with the mods that are out there.
Meh now I’m just ranting without a cause…
Tl;dr joystick experimentation and mods made me a prick.
Yea it’s all preference.
From what I’ve read so far across the net from different players (including people like Justin Wong and Alex Valle), the majority says the Hayabusa increased the precision of their inputs, so they prefer that one.
As for the buttons, the majority prefer the Sanwas, because no squeak and they don’t get stuck sometimes. Although my Madcatz Pro stick buttons also squeak from time to time.
I find the HHS to be overall better than the JLF, but I don’t even mind a stock JLF at all, though one of my sticks has one with a 2lb spring but not even sure if I like it better than stock, sure it’s loose but I have no problem at all with inputs. Not sure if I like the ls-40 more than the HHS, I’ll have to give it more use.
I’m planning on finally modding my HRAPV4’s art but I wanna do this along with changing the stick.
As I’m a Tekken player I would love to put a Korean stick in it.
I know that the Myoungshin Fanta stick is best suited for Tekken but I heard that it doesn’t fit in most sticks and I don’t want to start trimming the metal plate and stuff…
So I’ve been thinking of buying a Crown stick. I know many people say that the Crown stick is just a cheaper copy of the Myoungshin stick but I don’t care.
I just want to see if it’s really that better for Tekken and if it is then I might consider modding the stick for a Myoungshin stick.
Now my real question is, there seem to be different versions. Crown CWJ-303A / 303-FK, Crown CWJ-303N, Crown CWL303 and Crown CWL305.
I can’t seem to find a comparison for all these models. I really don’t know which one I should choose. Also, if it should exist, I would love to see a Crown stick with led mod or something.
I’m also thinking of putting led modded buttons but that can come later.
Also, one of the reasons why I wanna change the stick is that it’s too sensitive. When backdash cancelling in Tekken, whenever I press b, b, after the last b, the stick tends to travel back to f instead of neutral. And it’s really annoying when trying to backdash cancel or wave dash. Of course if I push softer then it won’t happen as much but if I wanna do it fast then I have to do it energetically lol.
