Thanks, gonna get a tube and try it out.
Check a local Harbor Freight first. If you order online then Amazon has it cheaper.
I need to respond in a way I find humerus
[edit - 2/10/2015]
Honestly though with so many people some how screwing up their Joysticks. So called paranoia aside, I call it being sick and tired people who of thinking they are smart, buying cheap crap then complaining their joystick is ruined.
I going to stick to my Vehemently recommend Shin Etsu G 40 or Dow Mollykote 44M as I am not taking responsibility of someone else royally screwing up their arcade stick.
You use anything else, I honestly don’t want to hear about your issues later on.
Well I’m going to order a new HHS. I put a JLF on with my kowal and it works alright but the HHS, to me, is much better. I can do the moves (mostly) with the JLF but there are a lot of extra inputs that I don’t get with the HHS. I feel like the HHS is just so much more accurate and when watching my inputs in training mode it feels nice to only see what I intended to hit and nothing more. SF4 is very forgiving on extra inputs but if I ever want to get into another game it may not be. New HHS here I come.
Guys, have you tried the “midnight blue” silent version of the hayabusa stick? I read on dustloop forums “that the optical Hayabusa lever has a light spring and no mechanical switches” and it’s extremely responsive and accurate for complex and fast inputs such as instant air dashing and such. I’m really curious about this version but I can’t find any reviews of it.
Of course there no mechanical switches in a optical joystick, the switches are replace with tiny lights and light sensors. When you move your joystick lever, the light bounces off the actuator, into the sensor and detects movement that way.
How do people like those optical joysticks? I guess having no tactile feedback would be really offputting.
It’s not that bad, though I’d recommend a stronger spring since you won’t have the extra tension from the switches.
For Seimitsu the best it 's Shin-Etsu G-501…
You can found it at Akishop.
Why do people think one lube is better for one brand of joystick? If it’s good for one it’s good for most. Joysticks aren’t like car engines.
I have no clue. I was just sighting what I read on the only thread that had information about shin etsu 30.
Not according to Seimitsu. By I digress.
Why is it people think they know better than conventional wisdom? its called conventional wisdom for a reason.
I didn’t save the messages as its a while back, but its why I feel so strongly on the issue.
There was once a dude who wanted to fix is stick after he used the wrong lube. Apparently the guy lube his JLF with Arctic Sliver he got from Radio Shack.
Some how the plastic joystick parts were glue to each other. It took bathing the joystick in a solution of Orange Kitchen Cleaner and Rubbing Alcohol to loosen the gunk, then another bath in just rubbing alcohol to get the Orange cleaner off. Yeah ArctiClean would get it off, but two 30ml bottles (its a two part cleaner) at $7 was not cost effective to get enough to bathe a JLF. I ended up charging the guy like $65 dollars to de-gunk his JLF (it was very difficult and labor intensive job). Then the dude refused to pay me as of course for $65 he could buy several brand new Sanwa JLF joysticks. So I Refused to give back his stick at first. We end up agreeing he pays for the supplies and he still didn’t get the actual JLF back (I also decided he isn’t getting back his joystick wire-harness, opps).
Its why I add a $35 dollar surcharge now if I have to clean your stick and if I still losing money with the $35 dollar surcharge I refusing to work on the stick (and you pay a $35 cancellation fee).
For example if your stick infested with spiders (or something) fuck that; $35 bucks for wasting my time.
This is why I get off being like this over lube.
AS5 cures, that’s why it “glued” the parts together. AS5 will “glue” heat sinks to processor dies after it cures for about 2 weeks. I’m also sure that AS Cleaner is acetone/ketone based and will melt any ABS plastics in use, so if it drips on a Sanwa button, bam, blemish. AS5 isn’t even a lube, why that guy thought so its beyond me. Not all grease = lube and not all lube = grease.
There are plenty of plastic safe greases you can use, and with a little research you can find alternatives to Shin Etsu or MolyKote. I love the Super Lube stuff I’m using. It’s not an alternative based on cost, since ounce for ounce it’s actually more expensive, but you can get smaller tubes and it’s more readily available. Seimitsu levers comes with a milky white (more so than MolyKote) grease that is most likely not silicone grease. It does not “clear” as you spread it over the parts like MolyKote does. I really want to know what it is because it feels delicious, better than MolyKote and just as good as the Super Lube.
Yes I am taking you out of Context here.
Spoiler
Obligtory Sailor Moon Reaction Face.
http://33.media.tumblr.com/c782f18055fbe12612047cf8b8b76b22/tumblr_nf6z3rBa2q1tqu3v8o1_500.gif
As for AS Cleaner, I only knew what solution 1 was (some orange oil cleaner), I never figured out what was in solution 2. I felt Rubbing alcohol (90%) was a reasonable substitution.
Yes I do know acetone/ketone will permanently cement ABS parts.
I am not against research, I am against people not doing research (I.E. Stupid people) just using what ever then asking me to “FIX IT NOW PLZ”.
So dark does that mean I should have sent you my HHS before I spent hours trying to figure it out with the #FIXNOWPLZ? Granted, I don’t think you could have done much except replace it.
Got my Super Lube, $8 with tax and free shipping at 85g is a great price even though it’s more than I’ll use in a lifetime on arcade sticks, can’t even find Molycote here in Canada and buying online for the 150g tube would probably be $45 or more, Cheapest Shin-etsu would probably be $35-40 after shipping and conversion too for the 100g tube.
Could of bought a small 10g of it on Akishop but shipping would of came to $12 total. :s
Going to apply some on my main stick and probably my loaner stick and see how it goes.
I prefer this… very economical and easy to store.