Is there any way to soften the throw a bit? The gate just feels so hard when I hit it compared to the JLF. If I could shorten the throw by just little bit and make it so that it doesn’t feel as ‘hard’ when I hit it I would use this over the JLF. That gate is just so hard.
You could just try using a JLF gate by dremeling it to fit the Hayabua’s switch configuration. A few pages back someone did that with a JLF Circle gate.
Yea I’m not that artistically inclined
wut…? I don’t follow how artistic ability has anything to do with use of power tools or a dremel.
The hayabusa has similar oval shaped indents to help fit the gate, and these also help fit the JLF gate:
Original post below.
Other than that there is no other way to properly dampen the sound without producing your own gate. You could try to cover the gate with some material, but that will make your gate feel like mush.
So what exactly would I dremmel? I don’t have one nor have I ever used one. After I do that I screw in a JLF gate?
Didn’t the OP completely eliminate the throw? What exactly does that do and how does it work?
The spaces over the gate where the original screws would go.
See pic below:
Its like a mini power tool. Quite useful for a plethora of mods really. All you need is the drill bit. I mean you could use a drill instead, but you still need the drill bit. Hell you could macgyver this and do something like nerrage where you heat up a screw driver (albeit youd need a pretty big one at that…)
Assuming everything is dremeled, drilled, melted, etc. yes.
Yes he did with an external mod by placing a washer over the actuator. I asked @Moonchild what he did a while back, maybe he can chime in again.
Just for reference throw does not affect the sound produced by the joystick. The material of the gate and actuator as well as the force put into the movement are some of the factors that generate such noise.
Throw is the distance it takes for an actuator to make contact with the gate, providing the boundaries for the joysticks range of movement. By placing a washer over the gate the OP reduced the amount of space between the top of the actuator, which makes contact with the gate, to match the distance between the bottom of the actuator and the distance to activate a microswitch the same. essentially creating the smallest range of movement for the joystick, allowing for quick movement.
I wouldn’t worry about modding the throw at the moment. Eventually I will get this gate project complete. That will allow you to choose the throw.
However, so that everyone is clear in the thread: Hayabusa gate and JLF gate are made of the same material, polycarbonate. You’ll see the >PC< designation on both gates. That’s how they do.
What’s eventually. If I give you monies will you do it nows?
Pay him 1 hundred. million. dollars.
Obviously if you need a larger hole then go with whatever metal rod meets the diameter requirements but for smaller stuff I’d probably recommend using an ice pick over a screw driver.
Recently i brought another Hori SCV stick for my xbox and the haybusa stick because I can’t use the JLFs anymore (lol), but for some odd reason i can’t seem to remove the mounting plate from the jlf to replace it. any tips?
It can be a pain in the ass. The screws strip pretty easily. You really need the perfect sized screw driver for them. The better the screw driver the better too. I use a really nice Cornwall screw driver on them and I have no problems but in the past I went with a Stanley or something and f*ed the screws all off. Had to use an extraction bit to get one off. Good tools really do make a difference.
WHY would you need to replace the Hori Mounting Plate (HMP) on the Hayabusa for a Hori Soul Calibur V installation???
The Hori Mounting Plate installs just fine into the existing Hori SCV joystick bracket as-is. There’s a few millimeters to give on every side of the installation era that’s enclosed by the plastic internal joystick ‘cage’.
There is NO REASON to swap the HMP with a Sanwa Mounting Plate (SMP) for most control lever installations. There’s maybe 2-3 joystick cases I can think of off-hand where you’d want to use the Sanwa Mounting Plate with the Hayabusa and those are non-Hori, non-Mad Catz joystick cases… For the majority of Hori and Mad Catz joystick cases, the Hori MP works fine.
The use of the Sanwa Mounting Plate with the Hayabusa is only necessary if you’re having a width clearance issue in a tight or older joystick case. The SMP as it-is is a pain to remove from a stock JLF because of the poor quality/soft screws Sanwa uses to attach the SMP on the assembly line. You never want to use those screws on the Hori Hayabusa because they’re a different spec from the Hori Mounting Plate screws – inferior softer quality screws with a different thread pitch that isn’t meant to be compatible with the Hayabusa base… in other words, reuse the Hori screws IF you must use the Sanwa Mounting Plate with the Hayabusa, period.
The first Hayabusa I bought went into the Hori SCV WITH the stock Hori Mounting Plate fine!
I daresay that the SCV/HRAP N3 SA is one of the best joystick bases for installing a Hayabusa. There’s no need to cut or modify anything on the case to fit the control lever in. It’s a solid, hefty base and the control lever shaft extends a comfortable clearance distance with 1/32" plexi installed on top of the faceplate.
The only thing is that you have to take off the baseplate from the Hori SCV joystick case and install from the bottom. Top mounting installations (ie, with the faceplate off) are a pain with the SCV because of that awful joystick ‘cage’ Hori decided to design into the SCV base.
You CAN cut the cage off but the only reason you’d want to do that is you’re installing a joystick lever that won’t fit into the existing SCV base, period or has a tab/cable harness connect that won’t allow the existing harness connector to plug into the control lever smoothly… I didn’t have to cut anything from the internal plastic of the base to install the LS-32-01 or the Hayabusa. The LS-32-01 and Hayabusa are about the bulkiest 5-prong Japanese control levers on the market…
I think i misphrase the question wrong, what i meant was how to get the Stock JLF mounting plate out from the arcadestick itself not replace the haybusa mounting plate.
Oh, gotcha there!
Two ways to go about that –
- you CAN remove the JLF attached to the faceplate BUT before you do that you may have to remove the harness cable first which means
- you’ll end up taking off the baseplate, period.
- You really can’t install a Hayabusa any way other than through the bottom. Unscrew the JLF Mounting Plate first and then install the Hayabusa like the JLF was… The harness cable installs just like it does on the JLF. The issue here is the greater bulk of the Hayabusa base AND the wider width of the Hori Mounting Plate which still fits well within the mounting bracket of the HRAP N3/SC V case.
There’s really only a couple of Hori HRAP cases where the Hayabusa has issues with the existing space from the buttons and the harness adapter. It doesn’t have any installation issues with respect to the HRAP V3/VX/V4, HRAP N3/A3/NX/AX or HRAP VLX lines or the HRAP 3 SE.
If you get the harness cable off, you can snake the JLF through the ‘cage’/‘plastic box’ fairly easy. I can only imagine that the JLF and maybe the LS-56/-58 would fit through the cage. The bases of the LS-32, LS-40, and Hayabusa are too bulky to fit through the cage without banging all over it or just not fitting through, period. That’s the conclusion I came to with the LS-32-01 which preceded the first Hayabusa (I bought) which ended up in the SC V case.
It’s safer to remove the HRAP SCV/N3 SA joystick case baseplate, and do joystick lever installations or removals through the bottom.
I honestly don’t know why Hori designed the SC V/HRAP N3 the way they did with respect to the plastic cage/box surrounding the mount area… It makes faceplate removals (with the control lever installed) inconvenient unlike the older-style HRAP 1-3.
Put some nail polish remover on a qtip and coat the red glue on top of the screws. Let it sit for around 10 minutes and it should soften substantially. What I said about good tools still stands here. Use a screw driver the fits tightly and press down hard while turning counterclockwise. Be careful not to get nail polish remover on any plastic on the case.
Thanks and sorry for the misunderstanding
If i feel like a 2lb spring is to much on a JLF will it be the same on the Hori Hayabusa? The Hayabusa seems just as lose as my JLF did with a 1mm actuator.
Pretty much. Ya.
any1 put this in a madcatz se? what did you do with the control board