I use the Hayabusa with no mods, but now i’m re-educating my hand for dashes, i feel dash easier to do on JLF due the shorter throw. That’s ok…there is no perfect stick anyway.
The joystick is just hardware man, just big pieces of metal and plastic that, when moved, make contact with even more pieces of metal and plastic. All it is doing is conducting current between ground and each inputs respective signal line, nothing more. No code involved or anything else to provide lag. Well maybe if you had some extremely long wire but still, the Hayabusa won’t produce any lag since it’s only essentially connecting lines when the circuit is closed.
I wish people would shut up forget about the stupid Lag thread and what I feel are dubious results.
If anything last evo just proved that Controller PCB input lag is not a factor to winning.
There alot more factored that what people want to take in account if you want to play the ridiculous game of how all the Input lag adds up (which is BS).
Only lag you should really worry about is your TV/Monitors display Input lag and your internet connection.
I am bit of a videophile so I am going to rate that Video input lag on a higher level than anything a controller does.
Especially on premium model arcade sticks. Where controller lag would be a real issue is crappy cheap controllers and controller adapters (like a PS2 to Xbox 360 adapter for example).
Being someone that is fairly new to sticks (about 6 months total), I’ve only tried whatever is stock in a Hori EX2 and a JLF. After a few weeks of using a stock JLF I thought that it felt too… for lack of a better description “loose” – tried a 2lb spring with and without an oversize actuator but ultimately ended up back at stock. I don’t really have execution problems for where I expect myself to be - but every now and then I just feel like the JLF feels a bit strange. For one like I’m kinda gonna break something if I’m not holding it lightly and two a sort of mushy grittiness at times that just doesn’t feel smooth and natural.
I was thinking of buying another stick that’s easy to swap into a TE, as an experiment. I’ve never used a Seimitsu stick… Would the Hayabusa be a good place to start?
Hayabusa isn’t necessarily easy nor hard to install in a TE, but keep in mind you will have to cut off part of the plastic to fit the hayabusa.
Hayabusa is a good improvement over the JLF, but IMO is about as light if not lighter in terms of spring tension. The engage is similar and throw is slightly larger, and while there are better quality parts it still feels more or less like a JLF, just with the quality of the parts being more evident. I’d honestly recommend the LS-40 or even the JLW for a tighter feel.
Thanks! In a regular Madcatz TE, does all it take to install either is screwing on the appropriate mounting plate and a .187 to 5-pin harness (for the JLW), or is there more than that?
I don’t know, i feel like i LIKE the JLF but then again I haven’t tried anything else. I was actually really thinking about trying the Sanwa JLF-TPRG-8AYT-SK Silent stick, but it has such a steep price… But I feel like the restrictor being one piece and having less wobble would really help, and the other slight differences. Plus I’ve never tried any other switches…
So the guy who won evo was playing on a PS1 remote with a PS2 to Xbox 360 adapter, I think the one that eTokki sells. Are you saying that he was lagging?
Or you could try putting a LS-32 spring on the Hayabusa. That makes it feel really nice. I personally love it and if I didn’t have nerve damage that would be the only lever I’d use. I just need something a little looser. Unfortunately the Hayabusa is too loose at stock spring and the throw is just too big. For whatever reason I really don’t like the way the hori feels / sounds when it hits the gate.
How does the Hori have higher quality parts? I was extremely surprised to see how many people were using the fighting edge @ evo.
For who that disassembled the hayabusa, did someone noticed which lubrication grease is used on it? I asked this question to Hori USA, they told me they really don’t know. =/
Just putting this out there for anyone who may have this happen to them.
For a couple of days now my HHS didn’t feel as smooth. It was a very slight snap. Slight enough that you might confuse it with the resistance from the microswitches but it comes earlier than engage. It’s most noticeable when going opposite directions. So I take this thing apart and examine it closely to see what exactly is causing this.
First let me say that it’s possible that I’ve damaged by stick in someway, unbeknownst to me. With that said, in moving the stick in opposing directions what I noticed was the center of the pivot is slamming against the shaft when you move the lever. The pivot, and therefore the housing, are well lubed so that was not the problem. In any case, it’s an easy fix. On the shaft there is a groove just before it widens where the pivot rests. What I did was take sewing thread to fill that gap, wrapping it around in circles to a diameter slightly thicker than pivot passes over. Now, if you’re going to do this make sure that the pivot can fit over it. What you want is for the pivot to be padded in a way that it shakes less. You want the pivot to rest in the same spot it always does. Anymore than that you’ll essentially change the height of the shaft and the tension of the spring.
My Hayabusa is lubed, doesn’t have any problem regarding the hardware (no mods at all) but i don’t feel it (somehow) as smooth as it was when i played by first time. I have never had this feeling with the JLF for a long time using it.