The LS-40 has a subgate like the LS-32 (only widely considered better since the open gate does not interfere with the square gate) so you are sort of correct that atm there is only really the option for a square gate (as far as for playing fighting games). The other 2 gates on the sub are 2 way only and 4 way only. This will all change when @Moonchilde gets the Universal Gate into the wild. That thing will be a game changer for a lot of levers.
Yeah sadly I hit a snag on it. Sucks 
but that’s how it goes. Was a bug in my software that I use to CAD and the bug is still there. I finally found a work around so I might be able to get some drawings done this weekend, but a prototype for EVO isn’t looking very likely. Maybe I can still get one, who knows. It’s going to be really tough on that end of the spectrum.
I’m curious how many of you are using the hayabusa as your main lever. If so, what mods did you end up with on it? I think I really like it with the LS-32 spring. I’d be really interested to figure out that no throw mod and see what that does.
I’ve used it for almost 5 months. I just left it stock. Whenever I use a JLF now it feels super stiff.
I’m still using it. Have three sticks with Hayabusa. 2lb spring is all I do to them.
Going on two months now with the Hayabusa. 1mm OS actuator with tape wrapped around it tor educe throw. I’m using the original (0.9lb) spring as well.
Going on 2 weeks with Hayabusa (stock) after octogate LS-58, feels good.
I’m not as good doing fast motions like Adon iAJK but that’s probably a practice problem; I’m better at doing charge things (like Chun st.HK xx EX SBK, U1) now.
This is precisely my experience from day one on the Hayabusa. Interested in people’s experiences after they’ve had more time on it (I used it for a while as my main/tournament lever).
Um, I used it for a couple of months but JLW stole my heart. I have no loyalty On the other hand, Hayabusa may go into my loaner stick, or the LS-40. Can’t decide at the moment which.
I really need to try that thing. Darksakul’s already got me dreaming about it.
I have a JLW but it looks too big to fit into my TE. I wanted to try it but after how hard I worked trying to get the crown in my TE I dont want to ever do that again. For those who didn’t see it, I never got the damn thing in there. I need to find a video or something that shows a good way to cut that plastic in the TE out so that I can fit stuff in there. I don’t want to mess anything up.
Use a dremel to make room.
I think a JLW can fit into a TE without permanent modifications. But if it can’t, Dremel makes it can.
I moved recently and unpacked my stick parts, and found the “Egret 3” ergo style plate I got from @blklightning21 forever ago for my Hori SC stick. Mounted up a new Hayabusa and Kuro buttons, but neither fit properly, so:
http://i.imgur.com/1kfUkgal.jpg
Cut-off wheel to remove the majority of the plastic, then a brush to smooth out the ragged edges on top. Now it fits.
What microswitches are you using with it? Any mods? I didn’t like mine at all, but I still have it. Might revisit it soon if you can convince me. 
Been using the Hayabusa (no mods) stick and Kuro buttons for quite some time now. I like them so much that I replaced all my sticks with HORI parts.
What’s so special about the Kuro buttons? I heard they weren’t that great. As far as the hayabusa goes, without a heavier spring I felt like it hit the gate too easily. I really didn’t like the way it felt riding the gate, or the sound it made. I think its nicer with a LS-32 spring, but I almost wish there was a spring that was just a taaad lighter. I think stock hayabusa spring is .9 and LS-32 is 1.3? I think a 1.2 or 1.15 would be perfect for me. Even with that I think I prefer the JLF anyway. What games are you using your hayabusa for? Has anyone here tried the hayabusa and then gone back to the JLF?
I actually got the JLW in no problem. One of the wires from the harness is being forced down on top of the TE’s PCB, though. I hope it doesn’t break it. I have no clue how I’m able to put the JLW in there when I wasn’t able to get the crown in. Maybe its the way that the tabs are bent on the JLW’s switches? I tried bending the crown’s switch’s tabs to get it to fit (as it shows in this video)but ended up breaking a few of them off. I really wanted to try a crown to see if I would like the fanta because I was considering getting Jasen’s Korean Panzer coming out in a few weeks, but that was a bust. I’m not too concerned anymore. I still would like to try it just to try it. I may just replace the switches that I broke and sell it - or see if I can return it for a partial refund lol.
I’m using a set of Omron D3V variants. The original switches are made by Zippy but re-branded by Sanwa. Those are ok but the Omron feels a bit better. If you try a switch mod and don’t like it, I’ll take that JLW off your hands.
Cagan,
Yes some do not care about the Kuro buttons. I’m probably one of the few that likes them hehe. I just like it better than the Sanwa because it’s not too soft and has a better tactile feedback for me. The Kuro is also a bit bigger (35mm?) on the button surface.
I totally feel this. Put an old JLF in a dif stick yesterday and thought I must have some kind of tighter spring in it but nope, it was stock. I think I can safely say I’m with the Hayabusa 100% from now on.
After months of using the hayabusa I was wondering what can i do to make it silent or less noisy. any suggestions?