You mean the LS-32 version. The LS-40 does not have a Phreak’s Quick Disconnect shaft available (yet).
But yeah, I am speaking of the JLF version of the Phreak’s Link shaft. I would not call the Hayabusa a JLF clone, but the Hayabusa can accept alot of JLF parts including shafts.
Gates I am afraid are not cross compatible.
From a design perspective it’s mostly a JLF clone.
Anyway, you can also get Paradise Twists for it, which includes various shaft sizes.
You can but it’s not securely held to the stick. Why do you want to do that?
It does NOT have clips under the gate. In order to use a JLF gate you have to screw the gate down. The process is detailed earlier in this thread.
Just ordered one of these from F.A. Very excited.
Moonchilde is working on a universal Japanese gate solution that will include octagonal inserts.
Right here… Hori Hayabusa unboxing + mods!
But don’t worry…
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a189/gumbyslide/gatescoming.jpg
Having trouble fitting this in my Eightarc Fusion.
If I mount it with pins facing away from the buttons, all of the directions are inverted. The pins overlap with the buttons if I mount it the way the previous JLF was mounted. It seems like I need a little bit more clearance between the buttons and the pins to make it sit flat. Is there a trick to installing this?
It’s the same issue the Hayabusa has with installation in the HRAP 2’s and most HRAP 3’s (except the ultra-limited HRAP 3 SE which mounts an LS-32-01 that has its PCB prong pointing downward to avoid overlap with buttons). I can’t imagine that mounting a Hayabusa wouldn’t be a problem in the HRAP 1’s and their variants, either, for the same reason.
(Since the HRAP 1 leftmost buttons are generally ‘L1’ and ‘L2’ positions and are considered awkward and unplayable for many people, you can just remove those/plug those positions and increase the clearance space for the Hayabusa prong.)
For the bulk of its history, the Hori HRAP lines shipped with JLF’s installed and those are fairly compact levers with stubby prong interfaces. By comparison, some of the alternate control levers are bulky. Hori never planned for alternate control lever installations in most ‘classic’ HRAP releases prior to the HRAP V3/VX release.
Mad Catz has had the joystick PCB prongs pointing to the left since the TE Round 1 days to avoid the prong/button overlap issue that could have been a problem for the LS-32-01 as well… The LS-32-01 is the most common alternate Japanese JLF lever out there and has similar build and bulk issues in common with the Hayabusa.
I know flipping the orientation of the PCB prong and flipping the connector harness doesn’t work with the HRAP 3, either… The joystick PCB has to orient the way Hori installs them or you don’t get correct directional input reading, period. Rewiring/soldering the directional lines so that you can mount the PCB differently might be an option but I wouldn’t risk it unless you know what you’re doing…(!) A thicker plexi (1/16") IF you choose to do custom art is an option since it would raise the 30mm buttons up and create more vertical space for the cable harness interface. Putting spacers/washers between the mounting plate and mount area is another option but I know most people don’t like to play with short(er) shafts. A 1/16" plexi shortens the shaft clearance a noticeable bit, too.
As for the ‘X’ button, even with extra space of a plexi or spacers on top of the mounting plate you want to get the most clearance between the terminals and connector harness that you. That means rotating the terminals so that they’re in a left/vertical lineup. That at least helps with the horizontal spacing regardless of whether you choose to use a plexi or not…
The only other option might be to remove the PCB adapter prong from the Hayabusa and convert it to an 0.187-tab joystick. You could probably just remove the electrical lines that connect between the microswitches and attach a converter harness to those PCB’s like you would with a Crown joystick installation. That would require cutting holes in the base of the Hayabusa for sure, though, so that the converter harness can be plugged onto the microswitch tabs. Hayabusa base microswitches are NOT soldered onto a substrate/PCB wafer board like the JLF and LS-XX-01 series joystick levers.
There’s no completely satisfactory solution for this for some joystick cases. The Hayabusa CAN be installed without a plexi or spacers on the HRAP 2 and 3’s but it’s a tight fit for the cable harness without them. Hopefully, Qanba will take notes from people that are having this problem and make the changes Hori did (for its HRAPs) for the next round of Qanba joysticks.
The Hayabusa is a nice joystick lever but it is noticeably bulky which is one of the things I didn’t like much with the LS-32, either.
This is easy. Flip it so the pins are facing down.
Now, you’ll need to pull the pins out of the harness connector With the pins on the stick pointing down, you’ll need to figure which pin does what. You’ll need to rearrange the pins in the tip of the harness to change the directions of the lever. It’s really easy, just a little time consuming.
Ahhh I didn’t know the wires in the harness connector came out. Do I need a special tool to remove them?
Just a really tiny flat head screw driver helps. That way you can push down the barbs that keep the connectors in the plastic. Push those down while pulling on the wire and they should come out. Then you can re-arrange them however you need with your stick in any direction.
Got my Hayabusa today (thanks to @Moonchilde & @CupHost) and dropped it into my VSHG for a session.
Initial impressions are very good - I’d left it stock, so haven’t experimented with springs and actuators, but it’s a nice and accurate lever. I tend to agree - at least from the short time I’ve had it - with those who’ve said they wouldn’t go back to a JLF after using it (it doesn’t feel hugely dissimilar to a stock JLF - just all around ‘better’).
Don’t get me wrong, I like the JLF a lot (with a 2Ib spring and .5mm actuator added), this just seems a better ‘out the box’ option.
I think I still much prefer an LS-56 to it, but I’m interested in putting more time in with the Hayabusa, and messing around with changing parts (with them being interchangeable, do springs and the like affect a Hayabusa in a similar way to how they affect a JLF?)…
Yeah most mods that will work on a JLF will work on Hayabusa. It’s like a nicer JLF. I liked it once I added a higher spring to it. I don’t feel the same about the 56 as I felt in the past once I got a good year on it. I kept wanting more from it, to be more like the LS-40. Then I got a Hayabusa, liked it with mods, and then I got a JLW, and loved it stock. One of the first sticks I actually liked stock. Haven’t done any mods to it yet, but eventually I will.
So sad that the JLW can’t mount on most of controllers out there. I would love to try it.
I got the Hayabusa for old is cool SNK, i still like a lot the JLF for SFIV though
Ya, they do. I felt like a 1mm OS actuator was too big but maybe somebody will like it. I ended up leaving all of mine mostly stock. Just installed 2lb springs and I’m good. Going back and forth from a JLF to a Hayabusa the main differences are the engage and the way gate contact feels. A nicely lubed JLF with a .5mm OS actuator feels almost just like a Hayabusa save for those gate feels, IMO. I say almost because there is something that I can’t put my finger on that makes them feel different. Maybe it really is just the gate. I’m not too sure. I’m anxious to try Moon’s universal gate on both to see how alike they can really feel.
I messed around with the Hayabusa quite a bit with different parts and I just never could get it to feel as good/responsive as an LS-56. It’s just damn hard to beat that stick IMO.
I only ever thought the LS-56 was OK. It was my second favorite for a while. Definite improvement over LS-32. I liked the quick engage and the octo-gate for it is the only octo I really liked. Still haven’t messed with an LS-40. That’s on my To-Do List.
Absolutely - mine too!
Default setup with an aluminum bat top, 5lbs spring (4lbs spring will get rid of most of the deflection caused by the additional weight but a 5lbs gets rid of all of it and you barely notice it) and a circular gate (with a non-dremeled one coming from PAS shortly thanks to you) is just perfect for me. I’ve tried all manner of JLF setup, Hayabusa setup, LS-32 and 303FK and nothing feels like this for me. I thought about trying an LS-40 since short throws/engages is what I favor but I read that you can only get a square gate for them and I just can’t play with that 
But I’d be extremely happy if you told me that I was wrong about that.
