I don’t think the throws are all that different, but I will be double checking soon. The most significant difference is the pivot, having gone the opposite of you, that is the largest contributing factor behind the feel of the 32. Plus Hayabusa has a good deal longer shaft than the 32 so that adds a bit of “throw” in a way because of leverage.
It could just be the lever length that is what is bothering me. But I do believe hayabusa is closer to the JLF than the LS-32.
Get a Twist JLF shaft from PAS and try the short lever 
There is that option, too.
Not sure what “shorter gate” means. Maybe you want to clarify that?
Speaking of gates, @Moonchilde when you took measurements of the gate did you take measurements of the top and bottom sides? I was looking at both JLF and Hstick gates and it seems like the slope gradient is a little higher on the Hstick vs the JLF (if that even matters).
Top and bottom was the same, it’s a 2 mm difference on both. At least I think, eventually I will have to double check but I am not there yet.
Alright I’m chiming in now since I finally received mine. I want to clear up something I said earlier in the thread.
The Hayabusa does not fit in the Madcatz SE unless you move the control PCB. Switching the mounting plate does not matter as even the plastic housing on the Hayabusa is too wide.
The screws are a bitch to remove for me. I can’t catch a break.
Use a hair dryer to soften up the glue. Do not use acetone because it will melt the ABS around it. You should be able to use a toothpick and a hair dryer to soften the glue and then pick it away, or a small flat head screw driver.
I used my pliers to grab and turn the screws, but not before blistering my hand with my screwdriver. I’m no good with screwdrivers. :shake:
I played around a bit with the HHS + 1mm actuator. Feels great. Only caveats I have is that my down switch is has a small squeak that’s easy to ignore. Other than that, surprisingly the 1mm isn’t sensitive enough for me. You guys sure 1.5mm will just activate the switches at all times? Also the throw is HUGE. I’m not sure how I’ll remedy both issues yet. Maybe just ghetto it up with electrical tape around the actuator. I think I’ll pop this 4lb spring in to see if that helps with the feel of it.
My execution hasn’t missed a step despite the longer engage/throw distance and a several month hiatus from playing. Can I chalk that up to the HHS? Who knows.
The engage is not longer. Only throw. Even 1mm was causing slight issues with rebound inputs for me. It works though. I’ve never tested 1.5mm. Try it and let us know how it works out.
I mean the engage is longer than what I was playing on before. Before this I had a Sanwa but I padded the microswitch plungers with plastic. This lowered the engage and silenced the switches. I thought the 1mm oversized actuator would be a safer and cleaner substitute but the engage is larger than what I’m now accustomed to. Only by a smidgen but it’s still noticeable.
I see. You can either throw some levers on the switches or get a 1.5mm OS actuator. Can’t promise either will work but it’s a pretty low risk mod. Ya know?
1.5 is too much you will run into problems. 1 is probably pushing it, lol, but I’m sure it works ok. Throw isn’t really all that longer, not enough to drastically change anyone’s game. I still have some more measurements to take but I’m almost done with the gate, so that will be an option in the near future.
BTW I measured both the JLF and Hayabusa stock actuators with digital calipers. They’re the same pretty much, one isn’t .5 mm larger than the other. So if anyone wants to avoid doing a lever mod (recommended for now) just get a .5 mm oversized actuator. That will do the same exact thing basically.
I’m coming up on two weeks playing with this thing.
I jumped from 4lb spring, to 3lb, to 2.5lb, and now I’m down to 1.5lb. The transitions just reinforced by believe that the tension should be as light as possible without the directions hanging. Combined with the force of the microswitches, 1.5lb is serviceable with a 1mm oversized JLF actuator. I haven’t tried to stock (0.9lb) spring yet and I don’t think I will.
The aforementioned squeaky microswitch worked itself out. It no longer makes noise.
HHS is a great lever to have. The only possible negatives I have are the size of it and that I scratched the shit out of the black paint when screwing the balltop in or removing the e-clip.
Oh one more thing, anyone mind taking a picture of their “v-cam” pivot. I looked in mine and it had this odd repeated oval like pattern on opposing sides. Wondering if that was always there are somehow my fault. Still feels smooth though.
I will take a photo when it’s time to lube it up.
Curious.
Is Phreak’s Quick Disconnect Compatible with the Hayabusa?
Yes it is, I have them both installed in my Beta version of the Razor stick.
Now we are talking about the Sanwa version of the disconnect not the LS-40, correct?
In addition, is there any way to change the gate of the Hayabusa? (Such as a replacement to go to octo?)
Not yet bro, not yet 